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FIXED Whirlpool Dishwasher WDT910SAYM3 not drying - checked heating element and thermostat

BlueWRXPride

Premium Member
Joined
Nov 8, 2020
Messages
16
Location
Syracuse
Model Number
WDT910SAYM3
Brand
Whirlpool
Age
6-10 years
Hello, my dishwasher is about 6 years old and recently I noticed that it wasn't drying the dishes. Also, when opening the door after a cycle, nothing was warm indicating that the heated drying cycle wasn't working. I checked the continuity of the heating element and measured 13 ohms. I also checked the thermostat and measured a short. Both of those measurements seems as to be expected. What else could cause the drying cycle to not function?

Added complete model number
 
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Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
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Messages
121,843
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
Hi,

Your missing the last digit in your model number, the model number tag is located inside the door on the tub frame.

Here's the results I get:
WDT910SAYM0
WDT910SAYM1
WDT910SAYM2
WDT910SAYM3

Jake
 

Jake

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Messages
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Thanks! Lets try a reset first.

Run the SERVICE DIAGNOSTICS CYCLE, and let it run all the way through to reset it back to default.

Entry sequence: Press any 3 keys in the sequence 1-2-3, 1-2-3, 1-2-3 with no more than 1 second between key presses. NOTE: Some models have replaced the “Clean” LED with “Completed.”
The Service Diagnostics Cycle will start when the door is closed.

--->Invoking Service Diagnostics clears all status and last run information from memory and restores defaults. It also forces the next cycle to be a sensor calibration cycle.

LET IT RUN ALL THE WAY THROUGH: Service diagnostic cycle will take about 23 minutes.

Then report back if the heating element is now working.

If it still is not working, then the only part left that would cause this problem is a bad control board.

Here's the control board for your model:
whirlpool-cntrl-elec-w10595569-ap5688869_01_m.jpg


Let us know what you find.

Jake
 

BlueWRXPride

Premium Member
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Messages
16
Location
Syracuse
Well, not sure what the diagnostics cycle did, but for the last wash cycle I just ran it looks like the heating element is working again. Fingers crossed it stays that way. Thanks for the help!
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
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Excellent, yes members have had good success with doing the diagnostics reset, so it looks like you joined the club.(y)

I don't know why some go 10 years without a reset, and some need reset every so often, that's always been a mystery to me.

Jake
 

BlueWRXPride

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Messages
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Location
Syracuse
Looks like I might need the "fixed" tag removed from this post. Lately, we've noticed that often when a wash cycle finishes, the dishes are still dirty, and the soap packet is still intact and sitting on the bottom of the tub. The dishes are warm, so it's not the same problem as before where the drying doesn't work. Instead, something isn't working right where when the soap door opens, something doesn't happen as it should to then dissolve the soap packet.

I tried the suggestion above about doing the service diagnostics cycle, and it seems to fix it, but only for the next cycle. It's certainly not sustainable for me to run the diagnostic cycle every time I need to run the dishwasher, so I need to do something. Does this look like a main control board replacement now?
 

Jake

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These wash motors have been a common failing part when after it fills the wash motor doesn't start and run OR runs intermittently.

To verify that--->Look at post #7 here: FIXED 665.13472N411 What to check on why it only washes about 5% of the cycle.

You can check to see if your getting 120 volts to the wash motor when it should be in the wash cycle. His Kenmore 665 uses the exact same wash motor yours does.

Take the wire connector off the wash motor and use your multimeter to see if yours is getting 120 volts when it should be washing, if so and it's not running order the wash motor.
(click to enlarge)
dishwash120volts.jpg

Here's the wash motor assembly for your model you can order, if needed:
W11032770 Motor-Pump


Here's the video to replace it:

Jake
 

BlueWRXPride

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Messages
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Location
Syracuse
If it was the wash motor, would it make sense that running diagnostic cycle first makes it work?

I could check the input power, but given that the pump does work (I can tell there is some residual water on the dishes when done), I'm not sure when I would test it and be able to learn something.
 

Jake

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If it was the wash motor, would it make sense that running diagnostic cycle first makes it work?
No, because you need to test voltage to it after it fills and should be running.

Like I mentioned it can run intermittently before it completely fails.

Jake
 

BlueWRXPride

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Sorry, I think I'm missing something with your response. I was saying that if the culprit really is an intermittent faulty wash motor, then would it be expected to be able to reliably "fix" it by running the diagnostic cycle? I would think that if the motor was faulty, it wouldn't matter if the diagnostic cycle was run.

You mentioned checking the voltage when the pump should be running. But in a full wash cycle that takes several hours, how do i know when it should or shouldn't be running?
 

Jake

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I was saying that if the culprit really is an intermittent faulty wash motor, then would it be expected to be able to reliably "fix" it by running the diagnostic cycle?
Nope, not the case.

You mentioned checking the voltage when the pump should be running. But in a full wash cycle that takes several hours, how do i know when it should or shouldn't be running?
When you start a new cycle, the machine will fill with water, then after that the wash motor should come on and start running, you can tell its running if you hear water splashing in your tub.

If its not running then check for 120 volts at the wash motor electrical connector.

Jake
 

BlueWRXPride

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Messages
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Location
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Nope, not the case.

Well, I haven't checked the pump motor voltage yet, but I have gone through another few attempts at just running it, either with or without running the diagnostics cycle first. And so far 100% of the time when I run the diagnostics cycle, the wash cycle I run after works, and 0% of them work without. So it doesn't seem like the wash pump would be the issue.

Could a faulty control board do this?
 

BlueWRXPride

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Messages
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Location
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This morning I pulled the dishwasher out and was able to get my multimeter probes on the wash motor leads while the connector was still attached. I started up a standard wash cycle (which we always use) and monitored it for about an hour. In general, the dishwasher seemed to run just fine. The wash motor was almost always running, based on the sounds and vibrations I could feel on the motor. I was able to detect 120v at the plug when the motor was running, and when the motor stopped between wash phases, 120v went away. The was one point around 40 minutes in where the pump was off, and the voltage was cycling between 120v and 0v every 9 seconds or so, but the pump wasn't running even when it said 120v. It did that for about a minute, and then it continued to another phase and the pump worked continuously while there was 120v. After an hour or monitoring it I gave up since I didn't feel like I was learning anything.
 

Jake

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The was one point around 40 minutes in where the pump was off, and the voltage was cycling between 120v and 0v every 9 seconds or so, but the pump wasn't running even when it said 120v. It did that for about a minute, and then it continued to another phase and the pump worked continuously while there was 120v.
Bingo!

See what I mean by intermittent, the wash motor should ALWAYS run when 120 volts is applied to it.:)

Jake
 

BlueWRXPride

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I know I know. I get it, there's nothing going to that motor other than + and - power, no control lines, so yes, I agree that if it's 120v it should be on. BUT, I'm still hesitant because of the fact that it seems like every time I run the diagnostic cycle it makes it work (and when I don't do that it doesn't), and the only time the motor didn't run was this different 9 second on/off portion which lasted about a minute out of the hour I was watching it. So it seemed like that was some other mode of operation potentially.

I hope this doesn't come across as me arguing about this, as I'm clearly no dishwasher expert, and I very much appreciate your advice! Some things just don't seem to be adding up to me yet. Appreciate your patience!
 

Jake

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I know your leery about replacing it, but going by the failure rate of these wash motors, I'm 100% sure that's the problem, but you can wait if you want till it fails completely.:)

Jake
 

BlueWRXPride

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Ok, I placed an order today for the pump, and picked up some of the pliers for the hose clamp it comes with. But just humor me, if it weren't the wash pump, what would the next potential cause of this be?
 

Jake

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Nothing, LOL, because your meter was reading 120 volts and it was not running for that TIME you mentioned it was not running.:)

Jake
 

BlueWRXPride

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I got the pump replaced in about 20 minutes, no problem. But when I went to run it with the kick plate off to look for leaks, as soon as the basin filled up a bit it started leaking from the bottom of the door! I didn't disassemble anything except for the wash pump, so I'm not sure what's going on. I'm not talking about a slow drip, It's more like if I don't stop the dishwasher right away at the point it'll take most of a dish towel to dry it all up. All I can think of is that I did lay it down on the door to do the swap, but I laid it down very gently, so I'm not sure what I could have done to mess that up. Can you give me a suggestion on what to check that could have made it leak like that?
 
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