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FIXED Whirlpool Dishwasher WDTA50SAHZ0 Issues

Bruce52

Premium Member
Joined
Dec 27, 2022
Messages
4
Location
Toronto
Model Number
WDTA50SAHZ0
Brand
Whirlpool
Age
1-5 years
Hi , I have a Whirlpool Dishwasher WDTA50SAHZ0.

I bought it in 2019 and it has been giving me nothing but problems.

In 2020 it stopped working. 13 months after I bought it. Whirlpool was not much help since it was over 1 year. They did give me the replacement motor sump assembly at a discount though. It was part number W11087376. I had someone install it for 100 bucks back then. I did not feel like buying a new dishwasher after just 13 months of use.

The dishwasher is not working again, and I checked how to find out the error codes online through diagnostic mode (3 buttons in sequence) , the codes are 4 Flashes , pause , 3 flashes. and then 7 Flashes, pause, 1 flash.

Are these flashes what I'm seeing online about "F4E3", is that how it's written ?

So I guess my issues are F4E3 and F7E1, I am not very handy but it seems like the first code is the pump again, the same part I had to change before, part number W11087376 , correct ?

Does anybody know what the second code is?

It seems whirlpool quality has gone down a lot over the years. Does anybody recommend other brands for appliances , going forward? Or is everything made poorly now and it doesn't really matter what brand I buy ?

I miss the days when appliances lasted 20-30 years!

Anyways ,any help is greatly appreciated.
 
Hi, Yes F4E3 is the wash motor error, F7E1 is the heating error. F4E3 can actually cause the F7E1 because water is not circulating over the heating element, thus not heating the water properly.

The wash motor should be getting a constant 120 volts to it.

Here is the wash(circulation) motor assembly for your model:
W10510667


RepairClinic ships to Canada: https://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Circulation-Pump/WPW10510667/2684696

You can use the safety pin trick if your meter leads are too big on your multimeter.

safety pin 500x250.jpg


Here's how I do it in this thread, and advise others to do it the same way:
dishwash120volts.jpg
 
Thank you so much Jake. I was reading some threads on here, where someone had a f4e3 and f7e1 and they changed the pump and still had an issue, and then it ended up being the control computer in the door panel. I hope it's not the computer.

Since the motor pump has gone bad before, I'm guessing that it's gone bad again as you said. It's so strange that the OEM replacement has only lasted around 15 months and gone bad again. It seems very popular for these whirlpool units.

Anyways I really appreciate your help. I think I will buy the complete unit since it might be easier for me to install.
 
Oops .. I forgot to mention something important. After I turned it on, and it failed to spray water and just stops, I opened the door and saw theres some water. I clicked drain and closed it , and it drained the inside of the tub, but the tube under the sink is still about half full of water. I ran a drain cycle again (ran about 20 seconds), and the tub is still empty, but the white drain hose under the sink is still half full of water. Could the drain pump also be bad now ?

Thanks
 
This thread:

He didn't need a new control board, he said he replaced the wash motor and heating element. And cleared those error codes and everything is working fine.:)

I posted how to ohm test the heating element and hi-limit thermostat in this post:
Your model uses those exact same parts.

Also run the SERVICE DIAGNOSTICS CYCLE, and let it run all the way through to reset it back to default.

Entry sequence: Press any 3 keys in the sequence 1-2-3, 1-2-3, 1-2-3 with no more than 1 second between key presses. NOTE: Some models have replaced the “Clean” LED with “Completed.”
The Service Diagnostics Cycle will start when the door is closed.

--->Invoking Service Diagnostics clears all status and last run information from memory and restores defaults. It also forces the next cycle to be a sensor calibration cycle.

LET IT RUN ALL THE WAY THROUGH: Service diagnostic cycle will take about 23 minutes.
 
Oops .. I forgot to mention something important. After I turned it on, and it failed to spray water and just stops, I opened the door and saw theres some water. I clicked drain and closed it , and it drained the inside of the tub, but the tube under the sink is still about half full of water. I ran a drain cycle again (ran about 20 seconds), and the tub is still empty, but the white drain hose under the sink is still half full of water. Could the drain pump also be bad now ?

Thanks
No, the drain pump is working fine. That drain tube under the sink will have a little water in it, that's normal, mine even does that too.:)
 
This is the 2nd time in 4 years that I had to get this part. W11087376. I wish I could afford a better machine like a Bosch or Miele , hehe.

Thanks Jake, the problem is solved.
 
Excellent, glad to hear the new complete sump motor assembly fixed it.(y)

I wish I could afford a better machine like a Bosch or Miele , hehe.
Yes, I know what you mean.:)
 

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