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FIXED Whirlpool Dryer GEW9250PW1 Heat was constantly on while drying

USN Diver

Premium Member
Joined
Mar 10, 2021
Messages
7
Location
Orlando
Model Number
GEW9250PW1
Brand
Whirlpool
Age
More than 10 years
I had a bad heating element and replaced that as well as all the fuses about 6 months ago. My dryer isn't generating any heat right now, and I checked the element which has good continuity. I did find the thermal/high limit cutoff fuse doesn't have continuity, so I have a Thermal Cut-Off Fuse Kit Replacement parts ordered to replace. My wife just told me now that she noticed a few weeks ago that even in the air dry/fluff mode that the dryer was getting hot. Is there a way for me to run a dryer self-diagnostic? My thought is the computer has gone bad and that is why it was generating heat in air dry mode? Thanks in advance.
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
117,785
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
My wife just told me now that she noticed a few weeks ago that even in the air dry/fluff mode that the dryer was getting hot.
If your absolutely sure your heating is not shorted to your heater housing ground, then it could be a stuck relay on the control board, thus that's why it would heat on AIR DRY.

Unplug your dryer then look on the control board and you will see a black relay marked HEATER, Ohm the 2 terminals on that and see if you get continuity.

Here's the control board for your model:
WP8546219 Control Board


Jake
 

USN Diver

Premium Member
Joined
Mar 10, 2021
Messages
7
Location
Orlando
No continuity on the black heater relay. That is probably not good. I have been looking any not many options to get one of these quickly.
 
Last edited:

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
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Messages
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Actually that is good, because if that heat relay had continuity that would cause the heating element to stay on AT ALL TIMES, even in AIR/NO HEAT DRY.

Jake
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
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Messages
117,785
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McMullen Valley, Arizona
So you are not getting any heat at all now?

If you are getting 240 volts to the dryer and all your thermostats ohm test good, and the heating element is new and has continuity, then the only part left that would cause the NO HEAT problem now is the that same control board I posted the link to above.

But like I said its been discontinued by the manufacturer, I'd go dryer shopping since your machine is over 15 years old, as other parts are naturally wearing as well.

But, if you decide to keep the dryer and try to find that control board online somewhere make sure it has a full warranty for at least 30 days and you can get a refund if it doesn't work.

Jake
 

USN Diver

Premium Member
Joined
Mar 10, 2021
Messages
7
Location
Orlando
Thanks for the information. I was able to find one on Amazon and will replace it when it arrives. If I am still having the same issue with the dryer heating up in air dry mode after I replace the board and the thermostats, you are probably correct it will most likely be time for a new dryer.
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
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Messages
117,785
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McMullen Valley, Arizona
Ok, sounds good, keep us posted.

Jake
 

USN Diver

Premium Member
Joined
Mar 10, 2021
Messages
7
Location
Orlando
So I replaced the temperature control fuse and the high limit cut off fuse when I got them, and I tested the dryer before I put in the control board. The dryer seemed to work properly when I was testing it, even in the air dry mode the heating element didn't come on. We have used the dryer for many loads of laundry and all seems to be working properly, with no new control board needed. Do you think the temperature control fuse just went bad, and then that triggered the high limit fuse?
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
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Messages
117,785
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
Temperature control fuse? Do you mean the Thermistor, that mounts on the blower wheel housing? Or the THE HIGH-LIMIT THERMOSTAT that mounts on the heating element housing with the THERMAL CUT-OFF?

Or the thermal fuse, that also mounts on the blower wheel. If the Thermal fuse was bad the dryer would not even turn ON at all, much less heat.:)

I've never seen the thermistor cause the heater to stay ON in my life. LOL Now I have seen the thermistor cause a NO HEAT problem.:)

You can ohm test the thermistor at room temperature.

At room temperature or 70*F the thermistor should show between 11.5K and 11.9K ohms (11,500 -11,900 ohms).

Normal thermistor resistance values:
60 degrees F. - 15.3K ohms.
70 degrees F. - 11.9K ohms.
80 degrees F. - 9.2K ohms.

Here's the thermistor for your model:
Thermistor WP8577274


This video shows how to access it:

Make sure you unplug your dryer first and keep it unplugged when ohm testing.

I thought you ordered the--->Thermal Cut-Off Fuse Kit Replacement?

Here's the thermal cut-off kit for your model, WHICH INCLUDES THE HIGH-LIMIT THERMOSTAT:
Thermal Cut Out Fuse Kit 279973


Jake
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
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Got it! Thanks.(y)

Now if the heat relay on the control board is starting to STICK CLOSED at times, then it will make that heating element never shut off and blow out that THERMAL CUT-OFF again, so keep your eye on it.:)

Jake
 
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