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Whirlpool dryer YWED90HEFC0 - sensing light flashing, drying won't start

Brian1337

Premium Member
Joined
Jul 17, 2022
Messages
5
Location
Toronto, Canada
Model Number
YWED90HEFC0
Brand
Whirlpool
Age
1-5 years
Appliance newbie here, but eager to read and learn how to fix this if anyone has any pointers.

Have a ~5 year old Whirlpool dryer (model YWED90HEFC0) that became unreliable a few weeks ago (occasionally wouldn't start after hitting Start, would stay stuck on a flashing "Sensing" light - but would successfully start after a re-attempt).

But now it won't start no matter how many times I try. Observed problem:
  1. Select "Normal" on dial
  2. Hold down "Start" to start
  3. Slight click heard towards the back of the dryer, then nothing happens
  4. After 10 seconds, another click heard towards back of the dryer, and "Sensing" starts flashing - still with nothing else happening (no tumbling, etc)
  5. After ~2 minutes, another click heard towards the back, "Sensing" still flashing - still with nothing else happening
  6. After another minute, another click heard towards the back, "Sensing" stops flashing, timer suddenly jumps down to :01 remaining, "Cool down" light turns on
  7. After another minute, all lights turn off, except "Done" light
I tried some troubleshooting suggested on other threads by entering diagnostic mode:
  1. In diagnostic mode, all lights are illuminated, and 8:88 appears on the display
  2. Opening the door causes a beep to sound, and "EEE" to appear on the display. Closing the door returns "8:88" to the display.
  3. Touching / closing the circuit on the moisture sensor causes beeping to start and "90" to display
  4. Hitting the Start button causes a brief buzzing noise, then "90" to display, then "E1" and "F1" to alternate flashing on the display
  5. I haven't tried testing the thermal fuse with a multimeter (don't own one yet!) - but I can get one and give it a shot
Does the E1 code suggest I need to order and install a new thermistor? Should I figure out how to test the thermal fuse? Or - what else should I try next / consider?

Thank you for any help!
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
132,647
Location
Redmond, Oregon
If there is no saved fault code, “888” or “88” will be displayed.

Does the E1 code suggest I need to order and install a new thermistor?
No, unless you have F3 in front of E1 for the error code that would be F3E1.

So I'd ohm test the thermal fuse first.

Make sure the dryer stays unplugged and ohm test your thermal fuse its circled in purple WITH a multimeter if you got no ohm reading on that, then that's the bad part.

IMG-9460.jpg

Make sure you set your meter on the lowest ohm setting when you ohm test any thermal fuse.:)

Here's the thermal fuse for your model you can order: Thermal Fuse W10909685

Watch this video to ohm test it with a multimeter: Thermal Fuse Testing

Watch this video to access it: Thermal Fuse Replacement

Jake
 

Brian1337

Premium Member
Joined
Jul 17, 2022
Messages
5
Location
Toronto, Canada
Thanks! I tested the thermal fuse and it seems to have continuity (reading was near zero after holding the probes on the two fuse ends for a while).

What do you think I should try next?

Thanks again for the help!
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
132,647
Location
Redmond, Oregon
Ok, next make sure the machine stays unplugged, then get access to the control board(video included in the control board part link below) and see if you notice any BURNT components on that board.

Here's the control board for your model:
Control Board W11537215


If no BURNT components, then ohm test the door switch for continuity.

Here's the door switch for your model:
Door Switch WPW10350906


Jake
 

Brian1337

Premium Member
Joined
Jul 17, 2022
Messages
5
Location
Toronto, Canada
Thanks!
  1. Nothing on the control board appears burnt that I can spot
  2. I ohm tested the door switch for continuity and all seems good (infinite resistance when testing the NO and COM terminals when the switch isn't pressed, and near-zero resistance when pressing the switch)
 

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Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
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Messages
132,647
Location
Redmond, Oregon
Ok, on some models they have a broken belt switch, I don't see that listed on your model, but since you have a Canadian model number, it still may be there. Make sure the dryer stays unplugged when you check for it.

Here's the drum belt for your model:
Belt 661570V


Here's the video to access it:


Jake
 

Brian1337

Premium Member
Joined
Jul 17, 2022
Messages
5
Location
Toronto, Canada
Thanks. It seems like my model doesn't have a belt switch (assuming this video is showing me the right place to check). There's just a blue wire between the two terminals that the switch would normally connect to.
 

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Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
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Messages
132,647
Location
Redmond, Oregon
Ok, then your model doesn't have a belt switch.

I'm attaching your tech. data sheet below.

Do what it says here:
Screenshot 2022-07-24 15.19.09.png
 

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Brian1337

Premium Member
Joined
Jul 17, 2022
Messages
5
Location
Toronto, Canada
Thanks. I tested:
  1. The door switch / the door switch circuit
  2. All the motor circuit tests (everything good there - the resistance on the "Main" winding coil was 3.7, which is slightly out of the range specified - but probably not enough to be the problem? Manual says "If the Main or Start winding resistance is much greater or less than the values listed in the table above, replace the motor")
  3. Previously tested thermal fuse
I didn't do all the CCU power check tests since I'm less familiar with the voltmeter functions, plus if the CCU is bad I'm not sure I'd want to spend $250-$300 for a new one vs. just getting a new dryer. But I can dig more into this if you think it'd be fruitful?

What do you think - am I running out of possibilities to fix this? Is the CCU the only thing to do at this point?
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
132,647
Location
Redmond, Oregon
All the motor circuit tests (everything good there - the resistance on the "Main" winding coil was 3.7, which is slightly out of the range specified - but probably not enough to be the problem?
That should be fine.

I didn't do all the CCU power check tests since I'm less familiar with the voltmeter functions, plus if the CCU is bad I'm not sure I'd want to spend $250-$300 for a new one vs. just getting a new dryer. But I can dig more into this if you think it'd be fruitful?

What do you think - am I running out of possibilities to fix this? Is the CCU the only thing to do at this point?
Yes, it basically comes down to the CCU as the problem that is causing this.

If you want to do more CCU testing--->How to use a multimeter to test video.
Make sure the dryer is unplugged while ohm testing parts.

Jake
 
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