• Please note, some of the links on our site are affiliate links (Learn More)
  • Important Announcement

    It's with sad news to announce that our site owner, Jake, has passed away. You can read the details here.

FIXED Whirlpool Duet Electric Dryer GEW9250PL0 very hot clothes, then won't run


Premium Member
May 26, 2023
Model Number
More than 10 years
Hello Jake,
I have viewed your blogs and you have been very helpful to many looking for answers, so I thought I would send you this note in hopes that you can help me fix our dryer issues.
Here is our story: Recently the clothes coming out of our dryer have been extremely hot, which is unusual. Then, the other night, we went to use the dryer and when we pushed the "start" button it would not run and the "sensing" light in the "Status" section would come on and you could hear a click. So, we ran the diagnostic and opened the door and "6E" displayed, but the light inside the drum is working. Then I pressed the "start" button and "08" was displayed along with all the "Status" lights turning "off" except for the "Control Locked" light, which remained illuminated. Would you please offer me some guidance as to the nature of the issue and how to solve it? Thank you, your assistance is greatly appreciated.
Hi Coach, I'd first UNPLUG THE DRYER, then check the thermal fuse for continuity. A overheating issue can cause that to go out. The overheating could be caused by a bad thermistor, grounded heating element, or bad control board. When you get the dryer to run again, put it on AIR DRY and see if it gets hot in the drum.

Here's the thermal fuse for your model:
WP3392519 Dryer Thermal Fuse

Watch this video to access it:

Watch this video to ohm test it:

You can also ohm test the thermistor at room temperature.

At room temperature or 70*F the thermistor should show between 11.5K and 11.9K ohms (11,500 -11,900 ohms).

Normal thermistor resistance values:
60 degrees F. - 15.3K ohms.
70 degrees F. - 11.9K ohms.
80 degrees F. - 9.2K ohms.

Here's the thermistor for your model:
Thermistor WP8577274

Make sure you unplug your dryer first and keep it unplugged when ohm testing.

This video shows how to access it:

Let us know what you find.
Also, check for a vent restriction either in the vent exhaust hose in the back of the dryer or outside where the vent duct vents outside.

Whenever I replace the thermal fuse I always Pull the dryer out from the wall, then check that vent exhaust hose for lint clogs, and go outside the house and do the same where it vents outside.
Ok, sounds good.
Hi Jake,
Well, since I do not own a multimeter, I just decided to replace both the fuse and the thermistor. We finally received the parts and switched both parts out and cleaned out all vents. The vents seemed free of any blockage. We turned the dryer on and it ran! Thank you for that part of it. We placed the controls on "timed" cycle and "air dry, then checked the drum after 10 minutes and it was warm, as if the heating element had been turned on. Does that now mean that the control board is faulty and not receiving or processing the signal from the thermistor? And, will we have the overheating issue again in a couple of weeks or months? Again, your assistance is greatly appreciated!!!!!!
We placed the controls on "timed" cycle and "air dry, then checked the drum after 10 minutes and it was warm, as if the heating element had been turned on.
The heating element shouldn't be coming on in AIR DRY, so its either the heating is grounded to the metal heater housing or your control board relay is stuck on HEAT.

Unplug your dryer first, then get access to your heating element and pull it out of the heater housing and you will may see the heater coil broken touching the heater housing.

Here's the heating element for your model, if needed:
Heating Element Assembly WP3387747

You can also use a multimeter to ohm test it: Watch this video to ohm test it, put one meter probe on each element terminal the other meter probe to the metal heater housing and see if the numbers change.

If the heating element is not grounded, the control board is the culprit, but its been discontinued:
WP8546219 Control Board
Thank you Jake! We just pulled the heating element to check it and it was charred and bent, like it might have melted the metal enough to bend. By bending, it fell off of the tracks and the coils were touching the housing and I noticed the coil was broken also. So, we will buy another heating element, install it and run the "air only" test again. It's amazing to me because I replaced the heating element just last year. I probably did something wrong to cause the issue. It's always "user error", isn't it.
Thank you again for giving us a starting place to address our issues and a progression to work through.
I'll check back in with you after I install it and run the test, to provide feedback for others.
Glad to hear you found the heating element was the problem.

Yes, let us know how it goes.:)
Jake, you are a wizard! All of our gratitude and appreciation for your help! Installed the new heating element and ran the "air dry" test and there was no heat in the drum. Then, we put it on medium heat and the coils lit up and started sending hot air into the drum. So, it seems that your evaluation of the problem and progression of tests worked to target the main issue and address it to a successful outcome, thus a working dryer. Again, thank you for all of your knowledge and assistance with this issue.
Excellent coach, glad to hear the new heating element fixed it.(y)

Thanks for the update!

Users who are viewing this thread

Support Our Site

If you feel that you have benefited from this site, and would like to show your appreciation, please consider making a donation.