FIXED Whirlpool ED25TEXHW01 side-by-side refrigerator too much water in the ice maker

[greg-n-houston]

Model Number

ED25TEXHW01

Brand

Whirlpool

Age

More than 10 years

Hello,
We have a functioning, but older, Whirlpool side-by-side. A few months ago, the water dispenser began leaking badly. A repair tech replaced the water/ice maker valve. Following that repair, the ice maker stopped producing ice. An inspection revealed an overfull ice cube mold with icicles dripping from the ice maker. We replaced that with an aftermarket icemaker matched to the model. Once the new maker was installed, we observed water splashing out of the mold during fills. There was also very slight dripping at the motor side (closest to door) of the icemaker. The ice maker will make ice for a cycle or two, but then freezes up. Using a hair dryer for just under a minute will cause ice harvesting to occur successfully, but the mold will again freeze after a batch or two. The cubes have connecting ice bars at both the edge of the cubes and midway on them. I have adjusted the flow 1/2 turn clockwise followed by another 1/4 turn clockwise. The maker still spills and freezes up. Could this mean that the replacement valve was an incorrect model?
The level front-to-back and side-to-side has been checked and confirmed.
Thanks for any help/advice.

 

[Dan O.]

Could this mean that the replacement valve was an incorrect model?

It could be possible. There are lots of different ones. The correct one for your fridge (# 2206123) however looks to be discontinued and NLA from most suppliers. I was able to find a new, alternate replacement that is still available at the following link. (Read the comments there.)

LINK > Water Fill Valve # 2206123 replacement


I would suggest someone also look into the fridge's actual water supply. Poor water pressure to the fridge valve could allow it to seep (leak). Look for a sediment screen at the water valve where the water line connects, that might be partially plugged and limiting water pressure.

After that, looking into the water tap on the house water pipe for the fridge supply.

If a 'self-piercing' water valve was used or any type of saddle valve was installed on the underside of a water pipe, I suggest it be replaced with a drill type saddle valve or a regular plumbing tap to ensure proper water pressure to the fridge. Self piercing valves or a valve mounted under a pipe can clog easily, hampering water flow to the fridge which can affect tight closing of the water valve leading to seeping issues.




Dan O.

 

[greg-n-houston]

Thanks, Dan O! The water supply has its own plumbing (valve to copper to flex steel hose). I'll definitely order from the link. The splashing and ice cube shapes indicate too much water. The valve that the service company installed is different from what is shown on your link. I've attached photos.

 

[Dan O.]

The splashing and ice cube shapes indicate too much water.

If the valve didn't cause splashing before I don't know why it would with a new icemaker. The water valve flow rate wouldn't change unless the valve was defective internally. If there are any numbers on that replacement valve, another one of it might be available to be purchased if defective.


Too much water in the icemaker is frequently caused by water run-on, ie. continuing to drip into the ice mold after filling should have finished. That can be caused by the water valve not closing tightly which can result from poor water pressure to the valve.

The valve that the service company installed is different from what is shown on your link.

I'm not certain if that is the actual valve being sold or just a photo of the original part for identification purposes. Check the comments on the page before ordering.

The water supply has its own plumbing (valve to copper to flex steel hose)

The main point was the kind of water valve on the house water pipe. Is yours a regular plumbing tap or a saddle valve? That however wouldn't cause "splashing" but could cause overfilling of the ice mold from seepage resulting in 'stuck' ice cubes.


Dan O.

 

[greg-n-houston]

The water supply is a dedicated pipe from household cold-water plumbing. It has a standard shutoff valve before the 1/4 fitting for the refrigerator. That connects to a short piece of copper and then a standard refrigerator supply flex hose. I guess my question is whether the solenoid valves (the ones pictured and in the part you recommended) have the same flow rate when they're open. The part you suggested (and OEM for the refrigerator) has light brown, dark brown, and purple solenoid housings (which match the power connectors). The replacement we were sold has yellow, tan, and green solenoid housings. Curious whether these are color-coded to different flow rates or durations.

I repositioned the ice maker, and I didn't notice splash when the water was run into the mold. We'll see... Thank you so much for all your excellent questions and suggestions.

 

[Dan O.]

my question is whether the solenoid valves (the ones pictured and in the part you recommended) have the same flow rate when they're open.

According to the ad, it will replace the original valve from your fridge model so both it and the original valve should have to have the same flow rate. I have no idea of the flow rate of the valve currently on your refrigerator. I don't even know which one one it is without its part number and even with its part number I couldn't tell you its flow rate. Manufacturers don't usually provide such information on a part by part basis.


Dan O.

 

[greg-n-houston]

It's fixed! Not sure which worked, but I moved the ice maker flow timer 1/8 turn clockwise. I also pushed the door side of the maker as far up as it would go (likely only a few millimeters) in the slots of the mounting screws. One of those, or both, have the maker functioning. Thanks, Dan O. for all of your assistance.

 

[Dan O.]

Thanks for the followup.