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FIXED Whirlpool ED5FVGXVS00 freezer and fridge stopped cooling. Compressor very hot, capacitor clicking frequently

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datocol

Premium Member
Joined
Dec 15, 2019
Messages
5
Location
North Carolina
Model Number
ED5FVGXVS00
Brand
Whirlpool
Age
More than 10 years
Hello everyone,

The previous homeowners left us a Whirlpool ED5FVGXVS00. The fridge is basic but runs very well. The other day new filters came in the mail. The next day after changing one, the freezer stopped cooling.
I opened the back yesterday and noticed that there is a clicking sound coming from the capacitor. The compressor is very hot to the touch. The fan next to the compressor is running.
I also opened the freezer to look at the coils. The fan and lights are working but the coils do not cool. They are room temperature.

After checking the back out, I unplugged the fridge for the rest of the day and plugged it back in at night. By then, the compressor had cooled down and the fridge and freezer were room temperature.
This morning when I woke up I could hear the capacitor clicking and the compressor was just as hot as yesterday.

The filter might not have had anything to do with this but wanted to include the detail in there because that's the only "invasive" thing I've done to the unit.

Any ideas on what caused the malfunction and what parts to replace?
 
After checking the back out, I unplugged the fridge for the rest of the day and plugged it back in at night. By then, the compressor had cooled down and the fridge and freezer were room temperature.
Was the compressor running, but just not cooling inside the freezer and fridge?

That would be a bad compressor if that's the case. And replacing the compressor would cost more than its worth to fix. This refrigerator was made in 2008.

You can confirm that first by checking the compressor start relay device.

Unplug your refrigerator and remove the compressor start relay from the side of the compressor.

Follow the guide here to check and see if it rattles inside when you remove it:

Here's the compressor start device relay assembly for your model:
WPW10189190 Start Device Combination


IF YOU GET NO RATTLE WHEN YOU SHAKE IT: Use your multimeter to ohm test your compressor start relay.



Put your meter probes in the top 2 holes, and put your multimeter at the lowest ohms of resistance, it should read between 3-12 ohms. If you don't get a reading between 3-12 ohms, or you get no reading at all, then its bad.

If the compressor start relay tests good, that just leaves the compressor as the culprit.

Jake
 
Hi Jake. I took out the compressor and the start relay and they don't rattle. I will do use a multimeter to test the resistance of the start relay.

Could it be the capacitor that's bad as well?
 
Hi Jake,

Quick update, I measured the resistance on the compressor pins and they look good. However, the resistance on the start relay goes haywire but when it stabilizes, it holds steady at 0.8 ohms.

I will order the start relay and report back.
 
Could it be the capacitor that's bad as well?
No, it would not be that capacitor, that's a run capacitor, not a start capacitor.:)

However, the resistance on the start relay goes haywire but when it stabilizes, it holds steady at 0.8 ohms.
Ok, that's a bit low, usually I find them around 5 ohms or so.

Was the compressor running when it was at room temperature?

Let us know how it goes.

Jake
 
I had no idea about the capacitor. I ordered one just in case but will return it!
The compressor was at room temperature when I measured the resistance. However, it was not plugged in. I found a video on YouTube of someone comparing two compressors and ruling out issues by measuring the resistance via the 3 pins. They determined that it was the start relay that was bad. Hopefully that's the case with me.

Will let you know. Thanks for all the help!
 
Ok, yes keep us posted.

Jake
 
Ok, yes keep us posted.

Jake

HI Jake,

I installed the start relay 5 days ago and the freezer and fridge has been working great. I am returning the capacitor this week.
You've been a massive help and it's been a great relief that it has been solved.

I appreciate what you do here!
 
Excellent, glad to hear the new compressor start relay fixed it. (y)

Thanks for the update!

Every time I replace this part on customers refrigerators, I find their condenser clogged with either pet hair or general dust, and that clogging of their condenser blocks the air circulation through the condenser and compressor which in turn overheats both and causes that compressor start/overload device to overheat as well and burn out.

So I always clean their condenser coil for them right after I replace the compressor start/overload device. Then advise them to remember to do this themselves.:)

Its very easy to do, Just take off the front kickplate grille and clean the condenser with a vacuum or brush. For the ultimate cleaning, use an air compressor to blow the condenser clean, yes, its a bit messy, but does an outstanding job.:)

The factory recommends that you clean your condenser coil underneath your refrigerator every 6-12 months, if you have pets that shed hair, then every 3-6 months.:)

Some tips are here: Refrigerator - Maintenance Tips for your Refrigerator

The condenser coil is located on the bottom of your refrigerator behind the front bottom kickplate grill. Just open both refrigerator and freezer doors, then pull that kickplate grill off, PULL HARD it just unsnaps.

Then get a vacuum cleaner attachment or condenser brush to clean your condenser. Even better would be if you have an air compressor or shop vac to blow the condenser coils out, yes its a bit more messy on your kitchen floor, but it cleans it thoroughly.:)

Vacuum Hose Attachment 8171579A


Long Handled Bristle Brush 5303318693


Also pull your refrigerator out from the wall and clean in the back with a vacuum or brush.

Jake
 
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