FIXED Whirlpool EHT201ZKNR5 - Bad Relay? Discontinued parts

[FridgeDontRun]

Model Number

EHT201ZKNR5

Brand

Whirlpool

Age

More than 10 years

Hello,

I have an old Whirlpool fridge (Model: EHT201ZKNR5) that recently stopped getting cold. The compressor runs for a few minutes then turns off (along with the compressor fan). I thought it might be an issue with the thermostat, but it happens even if I bypass the thermostat.

I took out the relay/overload and the relay does make a noise when I shake it. If I test the resistance across the two terminals I get a variable resistance (it is not stable). It varies a lot, even shows "OL" on the DMM, when I shake it.

I am a complete beginner, just learned a few things through YouTube, but I have more questions that I can't find the answers to such as:

• Am I testing this relay correctly with the DMM? Is noise while shaking this type of relay a sign that it is bad?
• What do I do if this part is discontinued?

I tried looking for this part (along with the overload) for this fridge's model number but I'm seeing 2 things. (1) the part appears to be sold out and/or discontinued everywhere I look and (2) the pictures of the part I am seeing don't actually match the pieces I've got. I assume there may be another relay/overload I can use, but I might need to help understanding how to connect them if the shape is different.

I'm attaching some pictures below to hopefully help see what I've got and what I'm trying to do:

Fridge label:


Relay/overload next to compressor:


Side of relay:


Side of overload:


Me testing relay:

 

[Dan O.]

You should not shake wire wound relays as they contain moving parts. A continuity measurement will also vary depending on its orientation.

The compressor runs for a few minutes then turns off (along with the compressor fan).

If the above statement is true, the relay or compressor likely isn't the problem. The only components that would affect both fan and compressor together are the thermostat and defrost timer. I'd suggest you check those areas again.

You've checked power to the whole appliance?

 

[FridgeDontRun]

Thanks for letting me know about the relay. None of the YouTube videos I saw had one that looked like this which is why I didn’t know if the continuity test was the right thing to do.

I did check the power. The light inside the fridge still turns on after the compressor/fan turn off.

I haven’t checked the defrost timer so I’ll look into how to do that next.

The main reason I’m ruling out the thermostat as an issue is because I bypassed it by removing the thermostat and connecting the two wires together but got the same result.

 

[FridgeDontRun]

This fridge hasn’t been running for a few days now so the cooling coils shouldn’t have any ice on them. If the fridge runs for a only a few minutes before the condenser/fan turn off, could the defrost timer be an issue? What I mean is, could the coils freeze that quickly? I’m assuming that would be the issue if the defrost timer wasn’t working correctly.

 

[Dan O.]

If the fridge runs for a only a few minutes before the condenser/fan turn off, could the defrost timer be an issue?

Not the way you think. The soonest the timer will advance between defrost cycles is after 6 hours. The timer advancing into defrost again is not your cause. A timer's contact could however physically fail even while the timer is otherwise functional but is pretty unlikely.

The important clue is if the compressor and condenser fan always run and always stop together. If so the problem is connected to both of them. They're both powered together. Follow the circuit.

The main reason I’m ruling out the thermostat as an issue is because I bypassed it by removing the thermostat and connecting the two wires together but got the same result.

That would usually rule it out however if you fiddled with the knob or handled it roughly beforehand, that could have affected the results. Loosening 'stuck' contacts ... temporarily. It needs to be tested when it's in its failed state as much as possible.


Dan O.

 

[FridgeDontRun]

The important clue is if the compressor and condenser fan always run and always stop together. If so the problem is connected to both of them. They're both powered together. Follow the circuit.

Yep, that’s what I observed, so I agree with you regarding following the circuit. Are there other places where it could fall? You mentioned the thermostat and the defrost timer, the other place could be the main board? I read that part is less likely to fail.

Earlier I had the fridge in the failed state, and I tried to cycle the thermostat to OFF and 1-5 but the fridge remained off. After that I tried to bypass it. While the thermostat was removed I tried to test it by putting the thermostat coil under cold water and testing the resistance across the terminals as I cycled from 1-5, but my DMM returned 0 Ohms for all of them. I wasn’t sure if that was a valid test for my thermostat but I saw it online.

I will try testing the defrost timer this weekend and report back.

 

[FridgeDontRun]

Here’s a picture of the thermostat:

 

[Dan O.]

Sorry, I misspoke here. Trying to answer too late in the evening I guess?

however if you fiddled with the knob or handled it roughly beforehand, that could have affected the results. Loosening 'stuck' contacts ... temporarily. It needs to be tested when it's in its failed state as much as possible.

While the above is true, if you bypass the wiring attached to the control and both those components still didn't run it *would* rule out the thermostat as the cause so it can probably be eliminated from suspicion.

could be the main board?

Yours is an older model. I doubt it has any kind of board. If it did, the board would usually replace a thermostat and timer. That's what a 'board' is used in place of.

I will try testing the defrost timer this weekend

I can't tell you exactly how to test it but the following link explains how its wiring is organized.

LINK > Appliance411 FAQ: How does a frost free refrigerator's defrost system work?

I agree with you regarding following the circuit. Are there other places where it could fall?

Not usually but I'd need to see its wiring diagram. I can't find a copy online. If you can post a clear photo of the one on the appliance I'll have a look at it to see.


Dan O.

 

[FridgeDontRun]

Not usually but I'd need to see its wiring diagram. I can't find a copy online. If you can post a clear photo of the one on the appliance I'll have a look at it to see.

I think you’re right, I didn’t really see a board. I mainly saw the thermostat and defrost timer. I just took another pic, but the thermostat is still removed since I haven’t put it back in.

This is a close up of the defrost timer:

 

[FridgeDontRun]

I pulled out the defrost timer. A YouTube video I saw said that there should be continuity between connections 1 & 3, but my DMM read OL. I’m hoping that’s it, I’m ordering a replacement at the moment.[

 

[Dan O.]

there should be continuity between connections 1 & 3

I would need to see your fridge's wiring diagram to determine how yours is supposed to switch. Generally between 1 & 4 would power the cooling system, between 1 & 2 would send power to defrost. Different timers could be numbered differently.


Dan O.

 

[FridgeDontRun]

It’s such an old fridge I can hardly find much info on it at all :/. I’ll replace this piece when it arrives and report back. Thanks for your help!

 

[Dan O.]

I can hardly find much info on it at all :/.

There was a wiring diagram in the fridge at one time. If not pasted on the rear of the cabinet it could be inside the control panel or behind the kickplate.


Dan O.

 

[FridgeDontRun]

There was a wiring diagram in the fridge at one time. If not pasted on the rear of the cabinet it could be inside the control panel or behind the kickplate.

Hi Dan,

So I looked everywhere, even removed some of the panels, but could not find a wiring diagram.

I just got the replacement defrost timer in the mail but I’m a little confused on how to wire the “loose leads”.

I opened up my old timer because my timer had two black wires going from the motor into the timer housing. This is what it looked like inside:

Here it appears the two black wires are going into “2” and “3”.


However, my new timer’s instructions say the loose lead should be connected to “1” (for continuous run timer) or “2” (for compressor cumulative run timers). So I don’t see a configuration where both “2” and “3” would be connected, but I’m also not sure what to do with the second loose lead since there’s two of them.

Here’s a picture of the new timer, and the instructions that it came with:



I know that without my fridge’s wiring diagram this might not be so easy but any suggestions are appreciated, thanks!

 

[Dan O.]

Disregard the numbering on the timers. Put the motor wires onto the terminals that are in the same position as on the original timer, which it looks like are the outer terminals.


Dan O.

 

[Dan O.]

Looking more closely at the wiring of the original timer, I'm not sure how it worked like that. If you find it doesn't advance through the run/defrost cycles, you can try putting the motor leads on the timer's # 1 & 3 terminals. Installed on those terminals the timer should advance from tun to defrost every 6-8 hrs depending on the actual timer duration.


Dan

 

[FridgeDontRun]

Disregard the numbering on the timers. Put the motor wires onto the terminals that are in the same position as on the original timer, which it looks like are the outer terminals.


Dan O.

I ended up putting them in this original configuration. After putting everything back together the fridge works now!

I tested the timer by manually cycling it to a defrost cycle, set a timer for 20 minutes, and then after 20 minutes the condense turned on. Let it run overnight and the stuff inside is cold. The thermostat is working as well, stopping the fridge when it reaches a certain temp, and also turns back on if I set the temp lower.

I still don’t know if it was the defrost timer or the fact that I took everything apart and put it back on lol.

Thank you Dan! Helped me bring this old fridge back to life

 

[Dan O.]

Glad to hear it. Thanks fort he followup.

 

[bigbuck]

You have it wired right and here is the wiring diagram for the old girl:

 

[Dan O.]

You have it wired right

It looks like it, between pink and red wires.

Power to the timer motor looks to be routed through the defrost heater and limit thermostat. If either failed, so would advancing of the timer. I'm not sure how smart that is. Sorta like the Amana models that route the evaporator fan motor power the same way.

here is the wiring diagram for the old girl:

I'll say.

Thx bigbuck