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Whirlpool Fridge making a surging fan noise in freezer area

detmart2000

Premium Member
Joined
Mar 10, 2016
Messages
4
Location
California
Model Number
ER8YHMXSL00
Brand
Whirlpool
Age
6-10 years
Hello all, I really need some help on this. Our fridge has been making this surging fan noise recently and is no longer cooling as well as it used to. The surging is coming from the fan that is mounted on the back wall on the inside of the freezer. We have the thermostat maxed out now and it will not get much colder than 38-44 deg or so. In the past, having the thermostat on 5 would freeze everything. Any ideas? I don't really want to just throw parts at it with no real idea of what it could be. I don't know if it's the fan itself or the part that controls the fan or ???????. Thanks for any help.
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
111,017
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
Yes, sounds like you will need a new evaporator fan motor. To verify that is the problem you will need a multimeter to take a voltage reading across the two electrical terminals that connect to the fan motor while the refrigerator is running, normal would be a constant 120 volts on your multimeter.

If you get a constant 120 volts, then its a bad fan motor.

Here's the evaporator(freezer) fan motor for your model you can order here(Video Included):
Whirlpool W10189703 Evaporator Fan Motor - AppliancePartsPros.com


Jake
 

detmart2000

Premium Member
Joined
Mar 10, 2016
Messages
4
Location
California
Thanks

Thanks for taking the time to respond Jake! I'll replace that fan motor asap. I don't have the tools to check voltage so I guess I'll just replace it and hope it solves the issue. If the problem persists, what else could it possibly be?
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
111,017
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
This is a basic refrigerator you have, no control boards which means the power supply to that motor doesn't come from a control board, it comes direct from the mechanical temperature control thermostat, so if your compressor and condenser fan motor in the back of your refrigerator next to the compressor is running then it would be just a semi-broken wire to your evaporator fan motor in your freezer, but that's extremely rare to ever see happen. So the new evaporator fan motor should fix it.

Yes, please keep us posted when you get it replaced.

Jake
 

detmart2000

Premium Member
Joined
Mar 10, 2016
Messages
4
Location
California
Thanks again Jake! The part has been ordered and is on the way. I'll be sure to update the thread just as soon as I install the part. I'll be replacing the regulator on my range next. I cracked it while installing the gas line. One of these days I'll learn that not everything needs to be so damn tight..LoL. We've been using electric skillets and a toaster oven to do all of our cooking. My wife is on me to get it fixed. LoL....happy wife...happy home.
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
111,017
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
The part has been ordered and is on the way. I'll be sure to update the thread just as soon as I install the part.
Ok, sounds good.


I'll be replacing the regulator on my range next. I cracked it while installing the gas line. One of these days I'll learn that not everything needs to be so damn tight..LoL.
Ok, you can start a NEW THREAD in our Range Forum: Ranges/Ovens

Yes, the gas line just needs to be tight and snug, not overly tight.:)

Jake
 

detmart2000

Premium Member
Joined
Mar 10, 2016
Messages
4
Location
California
Well Jake... the repair lasted about 1 day. It's back to surging again. Temp is ok for now. fridge is at 28 deg freezer is at - 2. When I removed the panel to replace the fan motor, the evaporater was caked with several inches of ice. What do you think?
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
111,017
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
That's odd, but it does seem to point to a issue with your auto-defrost system.

Does your evaporator coil in the freezer look like this:
(click to enlarge)
IMG_6807.jpg

If so, then you'll need a multimeter to ohm test your defrost thermostat and defrost heater. Unplug your refrigerator first before ohm testing.

To ohm test the defrost thermostat(bi-metal) for continuity it has to be frosty when you ohm test it, if not you will not get a proper reading.

You can also ohm test it in a glass of ice water and wait at least 5 minutes before ohm testing it per the video below.

Some defrost thermostats have quick disconnects that just unsnap from the wiring harness and some don't, if your model doesn't then you will need to cut the wires to it, but don't cut to close to the defrost thermostat itself as you will need to reconnect it back in place with 2 wire nuts, I use the orange colored wire nuts.

Here's the defrost thermostat for your model:
Defrost Thermostat WP4387490


Watch this video to ohm test your defrost thermostat:

[video=youtube_share;zmdsBkO46dk]


Here's the defrost heater assembly for your model:
Defrost Heater Assembly WP2263749


Watch this video to ohm test your defrost heater:

[video=youtube_share;311BiD76iYg]

If both of those parts test good, then the problem is your defrost timer control board.

Here's the defrost timer control board for your model:
4388931 Timer, Defrost


Let us know what you find.

Jake
 
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