Whirlpool GB2FHDXWQ02 Refrigerator Warm, Freezer Cold

[D000DM000R]

Model Number

GB2FHDXWQ02

Brand

Whirlpool

Age

More than 10 years

I know that similar posts regarding warm refrigerators with cold freezer sections have been posted. I think my problem may very well be with the closed system, so I wanted to post a photo of the ice pattern on my evaporator to confirm.

Based on other discussions in the forum I think that the uniform frost on the coils, but the large block of ice surrounding the inlet/exit tubes is indicative of a closed system problem. Is that correct? If so, I'll probably just replace the refrigerator since it's about 11-1/2 years old. If there are other things I should check before I decide to replace it I would be very grateful for some guidance.

I have run some of the self tests shown on the tech sheet for this refrigerator. I have confirmed that the compressor and the condenser fan are operational. I have confirmed that the evaporator/freezer fan is operational. The Fresh Food Thermistor passed the service test. The Freezer Thermistor passed the service test. I have confirmed that the damper opens and closes properly. I also measured 29-30 ohms for the evaporator defrost heater (the tech sheet indicates it should be 33 ohms +/-5%, so it may be slightly low but I presume it should still work).

I tried running the defrost thermostat & defrost circuit test. I did not detect any heat at the defrost heater though, so I'm uncertain if I ran this test correctly or if that indicates I need to check other components.

Any suggestions and guidance are greatly appreciated.

 

[Jake]

It seems the very bottom coil is lacking a good frost pattern, so it maybe a sealed system problem.

I tried running the defrost thermostat & defrost circuit test. I did not detect any heat at the defrost heater though, so I'm uncertain if I ran this test correctly or if that indicates I need to check other components.

The defrost heater should of come on in that test.

Here's the defrost thermostat for your model that comes with the wire harness:
Harns-Wire WPW10290745


The round black piece is the defrost thermostat. I always ohm test that for continuity while its frosty, your meter should read 0-1 ohm. Make sure you disconnect power to the refrigerator first before ohm testing.

Forced Defrost Mode:
The forced defrost function is performed using the refrigerator display and keypad. Enter the Forced Defrost Mode by performing the following sequence of events:
1. Hold the refrigerator door light switch closed.
2. Press the Refrigerator Temperature DOWN /- keypad 3 times consecutively.
Note: The 3 keystrokes must be consecutive and within 10 seconds.
3. Release the refrigerator door light switch.
4. The control will display F- d to confirm entry into the Forced Defrost Mode.
5. Entry is confirmed by pressing the Refrigerator Temperature DOWN /- key once more. The unit is off and in the Defrost Mode.
Note: All control functions will be turned off (Compressor, Defrost, Evaporator Fan, the damper will remain in its current position).
6. The control will default to the short run period test.
Note: You can toggle between the S Short and L Long test mode by pressing the Refrigerator Temperature UP /+ Key. Long Test mode is used for factory test and should not be used in the field.
7. Once the desired mode is displayed, confirm the forced defrost by pressing the Refrigerator Temperature DOWN /- Key once. The defrost will begin immediately and the display will return to a normal operating display with set point values.
8. Close the Refrigerator door(s). You are in the defrost mode.
Note: Forced Defrost mode can be exited at any time prior to step 7 by closing the Refrigerator Door(s).