Whirlpool Gold French door Refrigerator does not produce ice - Model GI5FSAXVY02

[viking2]

Model Number

GI5FSAXVY02

Brand

Whirlpool

Age

6-10 years

The fridge used to work. Then ice just worked less and less over many weeks, and now, nothing. Water dispenser works fine. In diagnostics,
Service test 192 Ice Maker State Test: OnH: Icemaker power switch is in the on position, and harvest is on, and door closed.
Service test 193 Ice Maker Relay: OFF

I changed 193 Ice Maker relay to ON. A relay clicks. When I go back to 192, then 193, it is OFF again.

1 day later:
Almost the same, just no OnH:
Service test 192 Ice Maker State Test: On: Icemaker power switch is in the on position, and harvest is on, and door closed.
Service test 193 Ice Maker Relay: OFF

I changed 193 Ice Maker relay to ON. A relay clicks. When I go back to 192, then 193, it is OFF again.

Question:
What is the issue, and how to fix. I can go through any codes you ask.
Manual sheet attached

 

[viking2]

BTW, I am a total novice here. I have never done this before, but I am good at following instructions.

 

[Jake]

Is there ice in the ice maker tray RIGHT NOW?

DO--->Service Test – 145 Ice Box Thermistor
Will Show Ice Box Temperature or, OP open thermistor or SH shorted thermistor.

Jake

 

[viking2]

Thanks for replying. No, None. There has not been a single cube of ice for weeks. Will check thermistor now.

 

[viking2]

142 shows -17 (The fridge is in Celsius mode)

 

[Jake]

Ok, since I don't know my Celsius its 1.4 F degrees. Which is good.

Then its either your ice maker is bad and not sending the 120 volt signal to the water inlet valve, or the wiring to the water inlet valve is bad, or the water inlet valve is getting the 120 volt signal from the ice maker, but the ice maker side solenoid is not opening up when the ice maker sends 120 volts to it, thus you get no water into the ice maker tray.

You will need a multimeter to volt test

You can force cycle the ice maker and measure the voltage at the water valve solenoid at the end of the harvest cycle. If your meter indicates 120 Volts AC for about 7 seconds, replace the water valve. If your meter indicates less than 100 Volts AC ice maker is the problem.

Read post #5 on HOW TO JUMP T and H to do a FORCE CYCLE in this thread:

FIXED - Kitchenaid refrigerator KFXS25RYMS5 - Icemaker issue

I have a 5 year old Kitchenaid refrigerator Model: KFXS25RYMS5 and the icemaker started giving problem couple of months back. It started with less number of ice cubes and then started thinning out the size of ice and finally it stopped completely. I removed the icemaker and didn't find any trace...

www.applianceblog.com

Just remove the electrical connector from the ice maker solenoid side of the water inlet valve, then put your meter probes in that electrical connector, then cycle the ice maker and watch the meter to see if you get 120 volts towards the end of the ice maker cycle.

Here's the water inlet valve for your model(There is a video that shows you how to access the water inlet valve inside the refrigerator section):
Water Inlet Valve 67006322

The smaller water line tube goes to the ice maker. So the ice maker side solenoid is the MAROON colored one, put your meter probes in the electrical connector that goes to the MAROON colored solenoid.

Here's the ice maker for your model:
WPW10190981 Icemaker


To see if the wire harness is bad, the last 7-10 seconds of the harvest cycle is the fill cycle. Insert your meter leads into holes "V" and "N" and watch for 120 VAC at the end of the harvest cycle. If the ice maker doesn't start a harvest cycle or if you don't have 120 VAC during the fill cycle, replace the ice maker.

(click to enlarge)


If you get 120 volts between holes "V" and "N" on the ice maker, BUT not 120 volts at the electrical connectors that connect to the MAROON colored solenoid on the water inlet valve, then your wire harness is the problem.

Here's the ice maker wiring harness for your model:
W11256689 Harns-Wire


Let us know what you find.

Jake

 

[viking2]

Great, I will do this after work.

 

[Jake]

Ok, sounds good.

Jake

 

[viking2]

1. I do not know how to access the control board to force the harvest. Is it just behind the front panel? Not sure how to get it off without breaking.
2. Should all this be done with the fridge power plugged in?

 

[Jake]

That front plastic ice maker cover just unsnaps off, then you will see the TEST holes.

Yes, fridge power plugged in.

Jake

 

[viking2]

Icemaker will not start harvest cycle. Tried a few times. Helt the short in T&H for over 1 minute. Fridge is in normal operating mode. Black connector over T & H removed. Both door switches pushed in. short over T & H. No harvest cycle or anything. As if off. See images
There is an on/off switch on the cover plate. Is the plug related to that, so it is just turned off?

 

[Jake]

There is an on/off switch on the cover plate. Is the plug related to that, so it is just turned off?

That switch should be in the ON position.

No the plug is not related to that.

Jake

 

[viking2]

Switch is on. Is the icemaker defective? Looks like no power at all.

 

[Jake]

Put your meter probes in L and N on the ice maker module and see if your getting 120 volts AC. Make sure the ice maker is ON and the door switches are pushed in.

Jake

 

[viking2]

N & L has 120V

 

[viking2]

L-H 80 ohm
L-M 1.5 kohm
Water solenoid connection is good

 

[Jake]

Ok, since your getting 120 volts at L and N and you can't force the ice maker to cycle by jumping T and H with the door switches pushed in, that means your ice maker itself is the culprit.

Jake

 

[viking2]

Thanks for the help.

 

[Jake]

Your welcome, let us know how it goes if you decide to fix it.

Jake