• ** REMEMBER! **The microwave can still shock you even unplugged!!

    ALWAYS discharge the high-voltage capacitor first if you even think your hands will come close to any HIGH VOLTAGE components.

    Jeff mentions this: Anything in the high voltage ( magnetron, capacitor, diode, wires to and from ):
    ...Use a metal ( not the shiny chrome type ) screw driver with a insulated handle to short across ( touch both at the same time ) the terminals of the high voltage capacitor to discharge it.

    From Jeff's site: http://www.applianceaid.com/component-testing.php

    Jake
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FIXED Whirlpool Gold Microwave & Door Error?

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gipper

Premium Member
Joined
Nov 13, 2010
Messages
4
Location
Atlanta
Model Number
GMC305PDS07
Brand
Whirlpool
Age
1-5 years
Hi All, before we call someone out, I wanted to make sure this wasn't a simple fix. We have a Whirlpool Gold Oven/Microwave combo unit Model GMC305PDS07. It's around 5 years old. The oven still works fine, but recently the microwave stopped working. It still allows you to enter cook time, but when you push start, it just displays an error that says "Door". The latches and switches seem fine and I already reset the circuit breaker to rule out some funky reset issue. Any thoughts?

Thanks! Dave
 

Brett

Appliance Tech
Joined
Nov 11, 2010
Messages
96
Location
NC
It is a bit hard to get to if you have never done it before. If you would like to try it I can try to find the service manual for you. Just let me know.

Brett
 

TechnicianBrian

Appliance Tech
Joined
Nov 16, 2007
Messages
349
Location
Portland, OR
The door error is most likely caused by an open buss fuse WPW10017410 located behind the control panel.

If you look at the circuit, both the buss and monitor fuse are in series with the interlock circuit. Turn off the power to the unit, removed the two side trim pieces and the panel screws will be on the bottom on each side. Lift up the panel and the buss fuse will be on the back right.
 

gipper

Premium Member
Joined
Nov 13, 2010
Messages
4
Location
Atlanta
I believe the fuse you're referring to is the very large fuse just to the right as you lift the control panel up. If so, it's testing good (short). Another interesting thing that may help diagnose is that I noticed one time (by accident) that if you opened the microwave door during operation, it did not turn off. :eek:
I always wondered about that, seemed like the switch wasn't signaling properly. I'm pretty sure that it's a bad idea to allow the microwave to continue operating after the door is open. :)

Anyway, I'm pretty sure the switches are beyond my technical ability to access and even if I diagnose them as the issue, I wouldn't know where to get parts. Any tips to find a reputable Whirlpool tech in the North Atlanta burbs?

Thanks!
 

TechnicianBrian

Appliance Tech
Joined
Nov 16, 2007
Messages
349
Location
Portland, OR
That is probably a good choice as the switches and the second fuse are located within the microave cabinet and take some work to get to. Based on the microwave still running with the door open, I would suspect an interlock is out of adjustment or begining to fail. Don't worry about being exposed to anything harmful because the magnetron cannot function with the door open. What you are seeing is the fan, turntable and lights working, but not the magnetron.

As for looking for a reputable service provider, you can check Whirlpools website for their prefered service network, or I suggest places like Angies list, Yelp, or Google, read some reviews and call and talk to them. If they don't make you feel comfortable and confident, move on to someone else.
 

gipper

Premium Member
Joined
Nov 13, 2010
Messages
4
Location
Atlanta
Brian/Brett, wanted to follow-up to hopefully help others with this same issue.

I finally had someone come out to fix this and sure enough, it turned out to be the second interior fuse WP4375321 (not the main buss fuse).

It took 2 Guys nearly 2 hours to diagnose/replace due to the work involved with disassembly/reassembly. In the end they charged me $160 total, which I thought was fair for 2 hours of work (plus travel time) for 2 guys. Apparently these combo units were not designed with ease of service in mind! :)

Appreciate the assistance and hope you have a Happy Turkey Day.
 
Last edited:

MadMax

Premium Member
Joined
Apr 28, 2011
Messages
3
Location
nj
gipper, I'm having the same problem. Is the second interior fuse behind the control pad in the door, or in the cabinet? Was this fuse the fix for both the "Door" and the "running with the door open"? Thanks for your help! George
 

jeff1

Appliance Tech - Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Oct 10, 2004
Messages
26,070
Location
Ontario, Canada
Main fuse #21
Thermostat fuse #24

Breakdown is here:
W0610139-00004.jpg

00566238.jpg
Fuse

picUnavailable175.jpg
Thermostat assembly

jeff.
 

MadMax

Premium Member
Joined
Apr 28, 2011
Messages
3
Location
nj
Thanks Jeff! So I need to replace both fuses? Is one in the door and one in the body, or are both in the body of the unit? Thanks again for all your help!
 

jeff1

Appliance Tech - Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Oct 10, 2004
Messages
26,070
Location
Ontario, Canada
Breakdown is here:
W0610139-00004.jpg

Body part.
Only replace if bad!

ohmmeterhowto.JPG

No continuity is bad, continuity is good.

jeff.
 
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