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Whirlpool gold ultimate care II electric dryer, runs but blows cold air

Johnnyherd

Premium Member
Joined
Jul 26, 2012
Messages
5
Location
charleston wv
Model Number
cmh015067
Brand
Whirlpool
Age
1-5 years
First off, I feel like a moron because I can't find the model number. I think the CMH015067 is the serial number. But, I have looked freaking everywhere, on the bottom, on both sides, on the back, under the back plate, inside the door, under that top plate of the dryer...There is no freakin plate....There are numbers all over it, but none of them hit in any model search or parts finder.

I can tell you it's a Whirpool gold series ultimate care II, electric dryer. It turns on and runs fine, but it does not produce any heat.

I did find this number on the heating element 5400w 240 and that hit on a replacement heating element.

So I looked at your site and read some on line (correct me if Im wrong), but I think need to check the Thermal cutout, high limit thermostat and then the heating element each for continuity?
(is that the right order?)

I have a multimeter but I have never used it. Could you school me on what setting to use and where to put the probes and what reading to expect?

I really appreicate you guys, this is so nice of you to people like me and my family

John
 

jeff1

Appliance Tech - Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Oct 10, 2004
Messages
24,834
Location
Ontario, Canada
Hi,

A copy:

Q - My electric dryer runs but will not heat, what could stop my dryer from heating ?A- Things that could stop a electric dryer from heating:
- house fuse or breaker ( needs 2! )... - heating element ... - burnt wire ... - thermostats ... thermal fuse ( not all models )... - motor heat switch ... - timer ... - selector switch ... - burnt power cord/plug ...

So I looked at your site and read some on line (correct me if Im wrong), but I think need to check the Thermal cutout, high limit thermostat and then the heating element each for continuity? (is that the right order?)

Start with correct power to the dryer....doesn't matter which order you check the parts you mentioned.
Migh thelp...
LINK> Test With Ohmmeter | Appliance Aid

[video=youtube;wq-3zsiBID8]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wq-3zsiBID8&feature=player_embedded[/video]

[video=youtube;3nicyh6EUHc]http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=3nicyh6EUHc[/video]

[video=youtube;5AVVv7nN5do]http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=5AVVv7nN5do[/video]

jeff.
 

Johnnyherd

Premium Member
Joined
Jul 26, 2012
Messages
5
Location
charleston wv
Thank you so much

I pulled out my old multimeter (given to me) and when I turned it on and made any selection on the OHMs side it just read "1 " a normal reading would look like " 0.9" or something and touching in the probes made no change in readout, but when I moved the dial to the DCV side I would get readings that would gradually reduce to zero. Do you think I should just go get a new meter? Sorry to be so difficult
 

Johnnyherd

Premium Member
Joined
Jul 26, 2012
Messages
5
Location
charleston wv
Here is a barely related question:

When I pulled out the dryer the exhaust flexline just fell apart. Well I should tell you that the previous owner of my house or maybe the builder. Installed and outside dryer vent and then he used that cheap, white plastic with wire inside, 4 inch flexline he ran it from the vent through the wall and into the laundy area and he pull about 4 feet through the wall in the laundry area. So you can just hook you dryer up to it. Well no the flexline is falling apart and it's full of dryer lint.

I said all that so that I could ask this: Could I replace that line with PVC pipe or something? What would you recommend?
 

jeff1

Appliance Tech - Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Oct 10, 2004
Messages
24,834
Location
Ontario, Canada
New battery maybe in the meter.

Solid metal venting is best, can use PVC but have heard of static issues.
Gas dryers must be vented outside, but it should be ok to try a test load with that vent off to see what happens.

jeff.
 

Johnnyherd

Premium Member
Joined
Jul 26, 2012
Messages
5
Location
charleston wv
New battery maybe in the meter.

Solid metal venting is best, can use PVC but have heard of static issues.
Gas dryers must be vented outside, but it should be ok to try a test load with that vent off to see what happens.

jeff.

Quick update, new battery didn't fix the multimeter so I pitched it and bought a new one.

Anyway

2 Breakers: Good -
Thermal cutout Good - continuity tone
Thermostat Good - continuity tone
Heating ELement No continuity - (looks fine, but definately no continuty tone or reading, when tested probe to probe, or wire to wire)

Do you have any recommendations to where to buy the heating element?

Thanks again
 

Johnnyherd

Premium Member
Joined
Jul 26, 2012
Messages
5
Location
charleston wv
Sure, but hopefully you get the correct one without a model#.

A strange stroke of luck, the heating element has 8565582 5400w 240v stamped on it....Well, none of the appliance websites recognized that part number. I just happened to try Lowes.com, no luck. Then Home Depot.com and Home Depot has a very nice little program that you can sort by Product Type: Dryer Brand:Whirlpool Part Type: Heating Element and also by Length: Description and part number. Well I put the part number in and I got this message:

(The manufacturer has replaced part number 8565582 with this item, part number 279838.)

and it showed an exact picture of my heating element.

and 279838 hits on all the websites as a whirlpool compatable 5400w 240v

Finally a little luck, I hope :D
 
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