Whirlpool Gold WRF991BOOM00 not cooling

Status
Not open for further replies.

Chase_C

Premium Member
Joined
Oct 22, 2018
Messages
8
Location
S. FL.
Model Number
WRF991BOO
Brand
Whirlpool
Age
1-5 years
Hi everyone,

What brings me to Appliance Blog as the title indicates is a Whirlpool Gold WRF991BOOM00 French refrigerator with bottom Freezer that's not cooling.

I've read threads here and other forums and watched videos galore on the workings and how to trouble shoot refrigerators. But after a check of the basic trouble shooting steps I don't know in which direction to proceed.

I'm hoping you'll give me some guidance in this repair.

Here's what I have checked so far:

Evaporator Fan: Runs
Condenser Fan: Runs
Refrigerator Lights: Working
Freezer Light: Works but light switch needs replacing.
Air vents: All clear blowing in all compartments
Invertor Compressor: Hums Vibrates. Warm to touch. Seems to be running. Cycles off after 12 hrs. I can hear at times trickling. I take it that's compressor oil in the unit (?) and is considered normal.

Condenser coil: Clean and clear.

Mobo: No visible signs of failure
Power board: No visible signs of failure

Ice maker: manually turned off but cycles to position when removed and replaced.

Front panel controls: All functions and controls working. Alarms working.

Going through the basic trouble shooting steps. Everything seems to be running. It should be cooling. Obviously it's not.

What should I check or test next?

Edit: I just found and downloaded the tech sheet for this model refrigerator.

Within is instructions for the self diagnostics etc. If you need me to run one of the tests and that'll help figure it out, let me know.

I do have a small multimeter but not one with the amp tester fingers. Just a basic one. (for now anyway.)

TIA
 
Last edited:

Chase_C

Premium Member
Joined
Oct 22, 2018
Messages
8
Location
S. FL.
Some additional information:

I ran some of the diagnostic tests found in the tech sheet. These are the results.

Test 1 - FC Thermistor - Pass
Test 2 - RC Thermistor - Pass

Test 3 Evaporator Fan motor and Air Baffle Motor

Test 3.01 - Both fans off - Check
Test 3.02 - FC fan On - Check
Test 3.03 - RC Fan On 13 Pantry Damper On /Open - I can't tell
- 23 Pantry Damper Closed - Again I can't tell if the damper is open or closed. The RC Fan is running though.
Test 3.04 - Both RC and FC fans On - Check both running

Test 4 - Compressor/condenser fan motor and Evaporator Fan has 5 sub tests. These are the results:

Test 4.01 - Initialize Dual Evap Valve in Home Position (4 min) - I hear a hum but can tell that it's doing anything.

Test 4.02 - Close both RC and FC Evap Valve (1 min) - again I don't hear it doing anything other than a constant low hum so I don't know if it's don't what it's suppose to.

Test 4.03 - Turn Compressor On (1 min) - I can hear the compressor turn on and is running.

Test 4.04 - Keep Compressor On, Drive valve to RC position, turn RC Fan On - I hear the compressor run, fan comes on. I have no idea if the valve is doing anything.

Test 4.05 - Keep Compressor On Drive Valve to FC turn FC fan On - Again I hear the compressor run, FC fan comes on. No idea if the valve is doing anything.

Test 5 - Compressor Status/Speed.
- 5.01 - Compressor Run Low - Check (I can hear it)
- 5.02 - Ramp up from low to Max Speed - Check. Compressor ramps up.
- 5.03 - Compressor Ramps down from max to low. - Check. It ramps down.

That's what I have done so far.

As mentioned I don't know what the Pantry damper valve is or the Dual Evaporator valve is or where it's located at the moment. Or what they're suppose to do, or if they're working or not.

How that helps you all help me figure out the issue
 

Chase_C

Premium Member
Joined
Oct 22, 2018
Messages
8
Location
S. FL.
Update 3:

I did some more research to find out about a Pantry Damper. Redid Self Diagnostic Test 3.03 to see if there's anything different I noticed between 13 Pantry Damper Open and 23 Pantry Damper Closed.

I pulled the bottom pantry draw as well.

Only difference between 13 and 23 is I hear a click inside when it switches between the two.
Gentle Air still flows out of the bottom left port behind the bottom pantry draw in either case. That's the drawer that has a temp control on top of it.

I also did research to find out what a Dual Evaporator Valve did etc.

It's on the doing an Evaporator Coil change but it looks like my same refrig and he goes into Self test 4.
So I removed the bottom back panel and redid test 4.

I'm not hearing a clicking coming from the dual evaporator valve when it switches as he suggests you might. Nor do I hear a hissing sound like you do in the video from coolant.

I do hear the compressor hum and get relief once it switches from valve home point to whatever test 4.02 is. Then the compressor hum subsides or quiets down considerably.

I'm pretty well stuck on what to check next...

As mentioned previously, I hope all this info helps you help me diagnose this frig.

Cheers...
 

Chase_C

Premium Member
Joined
Oct 22, 2018
Messages
8
Location
S. FL.
Hmmm...
No one willing to help...?

Well, thanks for some of the info you've posted in forums. It did help.

I'll try and figure things out myself.
Cheers...
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
100,764
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
Hi Chase,

It sounds like possibly a sealed system problem. Post some photos of both evaporator coils, we need to see the frost pattern on them.:)

Normal would be a thin layer of frost on all the coils from Top to Bottom.

(click to enlarge)
Frost Patterns.jpg

Jake
 

Chase_C

Premium Member
Joined
Oct 22, 2018
Messages
8
Location
S. FL.
My bad, I keep deleting the post somehow.. anyway.

I was saying, that's my thought at this point as well.

I did for the heck of it test the resistance on the compressor. I'm getting a reading of 7.7 ohms across all 3 terminals.

I get 120v to the invertor. I didn't test signal voltage as I couldn't get my test leads into the connector enough to get a reading and didn't want to force them further. Plus I'm presuming that since the compressor did ramp up and down during diagnostics, the signal voltage is probably correct.

I did look over the lines coming from the compressor looking for possible leaks. Only one small small spot was possibly a questionable area visibly. Other than that spot, everything "looks" fine along the lines.

I'm going to go pick up another multimeter. A clamp on. I understand these invertor compressors, if there's a leak or block one sign is by looking at amperage draw. And which side it's on by the vacuum guages. Which I don't have and not something I think I can do myself.

But I want to eliminate all other possibilities and narrow it down as much as possible before having to call in a tech. I don't have the tools or skill set to work on the sealed system or fill it with coolant.

As far as the frost pattern test. I'm limited on work space. And can only plug for 8-10 hrs for testing. (Over night)

You think 8-10 hrs will be long enough to develope a frost pattern on the coils for diagnosis?

And thanks for responding. I thought I was on my own with this one.
 

Chase_C

Premium Member
Joined
Oct 22, 2018
Messages
8
Location
S. FL.
I forgot to mention in my last post.

I had it plugged up a week ago, ran it for around 8/9 hrs. It didn't drop a degree. Not 1°. Not in the frig side or freezer side.

Would that indicate it's completely drained of coolant given all the rest or blocked before it can get to either of the coils?

If there was going to be frost.... Even a little bit. It would drop at least one degree in at least one compartment wouldn't it?
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
100,764
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
As far as the frost pattern test. I'm limited on work space. And can only plug for 8-10 hrs for testing. (Over night)
Yes, perfect!

Ok Chase, do overthink this, its very simple, if the compressor is running and you have no frost on your evaporator coil, its definity a sealed system problem.

Check your owners manual warranty, some Whirlpool models have a 5 years warranty on the sealed system, contact Whirlpool to come out.

Jake
 

Chase_C

Premium Member
Joined
Oct 22, 2018
Messages
8
Location
S. FL.
Nope, no frost on either today.

Temp on both evaporators is just below room tem by maybe a half to one degree. I take it from the fans pulling air across them.

Warranty. I'm not the original owner. I don't know if it still is covered or not. I don't know the original purchase or manufacture date.

Given that, I'm going in this is on me to fix it. So I kinda have to really think this through. Plus I'm learning about these things so that's a plus in my mind.

I think I have a pretty solid understanding of how refrigerators work, including this dual Evaporator style. Learned the difference between invertor and relay compressors.

I got to take my better multimeter out of the case and actually use it too! Heh heh heh. And found out my other two HF multimeters aren't worth crap! Booo! No wonder they're free!

Anyway...

Given neither Evaporator frosted. Or cooled even.

Either..

A) the system is completely drained of coolant. Meaning there's a leak somewhere.

B) There's a block post Evaporator coils and more than likely from the 3 way valve back somewhere.

C) The 3 way valve is remaining closed.

It starts out with the 3 way valve in the closed position. After one minute, opens to the RC side.

It seems, though I'm not positive and only going by the sound of the compressor, that during self diagnostics the valve opens after the first part of the test (4 mins).

But, is it opening during normal run after the first minute.

And... A question I have is, is home position on the valve with Whirlpool actually closed? Or if it like Samsung home position is both RC and FC lines open?

To evacuate with Whirlpool.. you have to go into self diagnostics and go to test 4 and open it, then unplug it to hold it open to service it.


Hmmm .. that would indicate that home position with Whirlpool is actual both are closed right?

Then I need to check somehow if it's opening during normal run.

How do I do that?
If it's not opening after one minute, but does during diagnostics, what does that indicate? And what do I check? Mobo?
 

Chase_C

Premium Member
Joined
Oct 22, 2018
Messages
8
Location
S. FL.
I was thinking the way they stated the valve starting or being "closed" in the home position. It allowed the High pressure side to build up for one minute before opening to the RC side first.

If that were the case, the valve might be stuck "closed".

I'm sure someone will confirm this new theory that home for the valve is actually open on both RC and FC cap lines.

I presume I'd need a set of HVAC guages to figure out if it's a leak or restriction at this point? And a vacuum pump?

If that's the case, I'm going to have to put this repair on hold till I get them or find someone that'll loan them to me. Or pay a service tech to come look at it.

Which the latter I expect will be costly given what I've read and heard about sealed system repairs.

Might be wiser and less costly just to buy all the tools. Try and fix it myself if I can.

If not.. what a waste of a really nice refrigerator. Sad really.

Dang nice looking frig. Both exterior and interior. I certainly could never afford one new. Not yet anyway. Lol

Oh well.. I'll come back to it later.

Thanks again
Cheers...
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
100,764
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
Ok Chase, I'm sorry but we are not the place to teach sealed system repair, You need hands on training to learn sealed system repair, there appliance repair schools/local community colleges that will teach you how. I will need to close this thread.

Jake
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top