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FIXED Whirlpool IKEA Refrigerator ID3CHEXVS00 ice dispenser/auger not working

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DavidGny

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I have a Whirlpool side by side refrigerator and the ice dispenser suddenly stopped working. It's an IKEA ID3CHEXVS00 model. I thought the augur motor died, so I replaced it and the new one didn't work either. I tested the control switch and it has continuity. Motherboard for ice dispenser looks ok. Actuator triggers the switch fine.

I'm at a loss as to what else to look at. Water dispenser works fine. Anyone have a suggestion?
 

DavidGny

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BTW, the old motor was 1.2 amps and the new one is .6 amps. That shouldn't make a difference, right?
 

Jake

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Hi, Let's first check for broken wires to the auger motor. This model is very notorious for broken/frayed wires, where the wire harness goes into the bottom of the freezer door, that will cause no/low power problems to the auger motor.

(click to enlarge)
FREEZER DOOR - b4.jpg

--->Lots of members have found frayed and broken wires causing the auger motor or ice maker to be dead. Remove your bottom kickplate grille, Remove the black wire harness loom too, broken wires can be underneath it.

Another member was having a similar problem here: FIXED: GSF26C4EXY02 Whirlpool Gold Ice Maker Problem Look at his post #6 he found frayed and broken wires underneath the freezer door.

Here's another one with the same thing about the frayed and broken wires: FIXED: 106.51173310 Kenmore elite ice maker not working - no led light

Here's another: FIXED: Whirlpool WSF26C2EXF01 Door Icemaker Not Working

BTW, the old motor was 1.2 amps and the new one is .6 amps. That shouldn't make a difference, right?
No it should not make a difference.

Let us know what you find.

Jake
 

DavidGny

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Thank you very much Jake. I will try this. I removed the kickplate grille, but just to be sure, should I cut the black harness loom for both sets of wires to remove it, or does it matter if I keep the loom mesh intact or not?
 

Jake

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should I cut the black harness loom for both sets of wires to remove it, or does it matter if I keep the loom mesh intact or not?
You need to cut that black harness loom off both sets of wires, that's where they break underneath that loom.

Jake
 

DavidGny

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Hi Jake,

I cut the webbing back on both sets of wires. There does not appear to be any breakage.
 

Jake

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Ok, now you will need a multimeter to volt test power to the auger motor.

When you test for voltage at the auger motor you have to press the ice dispenser lever to activate it first, and the door switch pushed in.:)

Access the auger motor and check for either +110 VDC or -110 VDC between the brown/white wire and the red/white wire. One direction is crushed the other is cubed.

If still no voltage, then its the control board not providing the proper volts to the auger motor.

Here's the control board for your model:
Electronic Control Board WPW10209635


Let us know what you find.

Jake
 

DavidGny

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Thanks Jake. When I disconnect the augur motor, I only see 2 wires (1 blue and 2 grey and red) going into the augur motor plug. I don't see the red and brown wires?
 

Jake

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Sorry, my bad, I was looking at your air baffle instead of the the auger motor.

You are correct, GREY/ORANGE and BLUE wires go to the auger motor.

Jake
 

DavidGny

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Ok, so I taped down the freezer door switch, put the probes into the back of the plug (the probes don't fit going through the front) and pressed the ice dispenser lever. There was no reading on the multimeter, so I guess that means it's the control board (unfortunately as it's very expensive).
That said, is there any other way to confirm that the control board is the source of the problem?
Also, will replacing the control board require any soldering?
 

Jake

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DavidGny

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Hi Jake,

I tested the voltage again using your trick and still no current. I opened up the freezer panel though and this is a picture of the control board. Is this the same one as the picture you sent?
 

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Jake

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No, that's not the main control board.

The main control board is located in the back of the refrigerator, once you pull the refrigerator out from the wall, unplug it, then remove the lower rear access panel and you will see it will be in its own housing box.

In the photo below:
#18 is the main control board
#6 is the housing box it sits in
#13 is the cover that you remove to access the main control board

(click to enlarge)
ID3CHEXVS00.jpg

Then once your meter leads are on those wires GREY/ORANGE and BLUE wires that go to the auger motor, plug the refrigerator back in and press the ice dispenser lever and see if you get +110 Volts DC or -110 Volts DC

Jake
 

DavidGny

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Location
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Jake,

Looks like it was the electronic control board after all. I saw a brown burn on the back of it. Replacing it got the augur motor running again.

By the way, getting to that control board was not an easy task! It was tucked away in a metal box attached to the side of the fridge.

But all good now.

Thank you for all your help!

David
 

Jake

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Excellent David, glad the new control board fixed it.(y)

Thanks for the update!

By the way, getting to that control board was not an easy task! It was tucked away in a metal box attached to the side of the fridge.
Yes, that style on yours can be a little more difficult to get access to.

Jake
 
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