FIXED Whirlpool Microwave WMH53520CW0 open/close door issue

[6string]

Model Number

WMH53520CW0

Brand

Whirlpool

Age

6-10 years

I'm having the open/close door error that seems to be common with these microwaves. However, my microwave seems to work at times and then at other times it gives error message and won't run. I opened up the control panel and removed both cam assemblies. I tested each individually with the door latch and they seem to work fine mechanically.

My question is, since the error happens some of the time what might the issue be? I'm trying to determine if I should replace the entire latch assembly and if so, do I replace the upper or lower latch assembly.

Corrected model number

 

[rickgburton]

Recheck your model number for me. Nothing comes up with that one. Be sure to read it from the model tag

 

[6string]

Here is a picture of where I got the model number. Am I looking in the wrong place?

 

[rickgburton]

Right place, wrong order ...lol. I'll fix it. It sounds like a sticky interlock switch or the switch bracket is out of adjustment. There's a very small amount of adjustment. Take the control panel off so you can access the switches and check them for continuity by opening and closing the door.

Whirlpool W10269458 Switch - AppliancePartsPros.com

SWITCH W10269458 / AP4429884 made by Whirlpool

click.linksynergy.com

Whirlpool W10269460 Switch - AppliancePartsPros.com

SWITCH W10269460 / AP4429920 made by Whirlpool

click.linksynergy.com

 

[6string]

Thanks for your help Rick.

I did try removing the assembly and individually connecting each one with the door latch. The little button on the parts you linked seemed to work appropriately every time. Is that what you mean by checking for continuity?

Thanks again for your help (and patience in explaining this to me).

 

[rickgburton]

The little button on the parts you linked seemed to work appropriately every time. Is that what you mean by checking for continuity?

There's two latches on the door, that when closed, activate the interlock switches. To check each switch, set your meter on the lowest Ω's scale, and disconnect the common wire from the switch. Touch one meter lead to the common terminal on the switch and touch the meter lead to one of the other terminals on the switch (some switches just have two terminals). The interlock switch is actually two switches, a Normally Open switch (NO) and and a Normally Closed switch (NC). If the switch only has two terminals, it's either a NO switch or a NC switch. The terminals are marked on the switch. If it's a NO switch, your meter should indicate 1 or no continuity. Then close the door and the meter should show 0 or continuity. If the switch bracket assembly is loose or out of adjustment the latch on the door might not close the switch all the way. This is from a different model so it may not look like yours but you'll get the idea

 

[6string]

This is really helpful. I don't have a meter. I need to track one down and then I can test the switches.

 

[rickgburton]

Any of the home centers or harbor freight has them for $10 and up

 

[6string]

I haven't tested those parts yet for continuity because since yesterday afternoon the microwave has been acting fine. I don't want to take it apart again while its working fine. Would those two switches work some of the time? Or might it be some other issue?

 

[rickgburton]

If the switch bracket assembly is loose or out of adjustment the latch on the door might not close the switch all the way.

 

[SimonY]

Hi Rick,

I have a Bosch microwave, model HMB5050. There is a common issue with all other people, who have this microwave: we have to slam the door( open and shut the door really hard), to have it work, making a very loud sound. I am not sure if it is some switch or mechanism issue. I would really appreciate it if you can help to share with some of your experience.

Thank you in advance,
Simon

 

[rickgburton]

More than likely the switch bracket or switch levers is worn out and not activating one of the interlock switches. Take the control panel off and you can check the switches with a meter by opening and closing the door:

 

[6string]

I haven't had an issue in over a week so I haven't taken the assemblies apart to test the switches. My guess is my assembly was slightly out of position and is now back in the correct position.

 

[rickgburton]

If it works, it works!