• ** REMEMBER! **The microwave can still shock you even unplugged!!

    ALWAYS discharge the high-voltage capacitor first if you even think your hands will come close to any HIGH VOLTAGE components.

    Jeff mentions this: Anything in the high voltage ( magnetron, capacitor, diode, wires to and from ):
    ...Use a metal ( not the shiny chrome type ) screw driver with a insulated handle to short across ( touch both at the same time ) the terminals of the high voltage capacitor to discharge it.

    From Jeff's site: http://www.applianceaid.com/component-testing.php

    Jake
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FIXED Whirlpool "open/close door" error prevents microwave to work

Blackhawks

Premium Member
Joined
Nov 17, 2015
Messages
3
Location
Calgary
Model Number
YWMH1162XVS1
Brand
Whirlpool
Age
1-5 years
I have a 5 year old over-the-range microwave oven, model YWMH1162XVS1. It stopped working on me yesterday. The clock and keyboard still worked but when I tried to enter cook time or the +30 second quick start function it would state something like “open and close door”. I tried that several times for 15 minutes and it kept refusing to start.

I disconnected it from the power a couple of times, waited a minute, and tried again. No luck. So then I went to Google and started researching and found that my door switches may be the culprit. With the unit still attached to the wall, I open the control board/keyboard and had little access to the switches.

I took out the T10 screws and got the switch holders out. The top unit had 2 switches – looking in, the left switch had 3 terminals hidden behind the plastic bracket, and the right switch had 2 terminals and was much easier to access.

I wanted to check the resistance and took them out of the bracket (support interlock top #WP8206419) and broke the clips. ARGH! The clips also forced the 3-terminal switch to separate in half but it appeared to go back together with no issues. I tested them on an auto-range ohm meter and they appeared to work. Both switched also appeared to pass the “click” test.

So, I have a half open OTR microwave, a cranky wife, and a broken support interlock top #WP8206419.

Where do I go now? What was the first thing I should of tried – the 20 amp ceramic cylinder fuse? Ay advice would be much appreciated.

B.
 

jeff1

Appliance Tech - Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Oct 10, 2004
Messages
24,022
Location
Ontario, Canada
Hi,

Door keys ( on the door ), door switches ( all of them ), door switch mechanisms....if all are ok the smart board is the suspect.

the 20 amp ceramic cylinder fuse?
Everything goes off/dead if the fuse is bad.

jeff.
 

Blackhawks

Premium Member
Joined
Nov 17, 2015
Messages
3
Location
Calgary
Thanks Jeff. So are you saying the clock and keypad would not illuminate, and I would never see the "open close door" illuminated text error if the 20 amp fuse was blown? I thought I've read on multiple sites it to be the opposite. I did not have time to take another stab at it today but found the fuse beside the capacitor. I noticed a blackish "stripe" in the centre of the white ceramic fuse, looking like it might have been blown. I have zero experience with ceramic fuses. Do they leave any burnt out evidence (perhaps like the blackish stripe) when they blow? I'll test its impedence tomorrow but thought I ask if this may be a clue.
 
Last edited:

jeff1

Appliance Tech - Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Oct 10, 2004
Messages
24,022
Location
Ontario, Canada
So are you saying the clock and keypad would not illuminate, and I would never see the "open close door" illuminated text error if the 20 amp fuse was blown?
Yupper.
Everything should go out when the line fuse opens up...

Line-Fuse-W10138793--02012299.jpg Microwave line fuse

Do they leave any burnt out evidence (perhaps like the blackish stripe) when they blow?
Normally nope, can't see inside the ceramic fuse.

jeff.
 

Blackhawks

Premium Member
Joined
Nov 17, 2015
Messages
3
Location
Calgary
Thanks Jeff! Just wanted to update everyone that it was indeed the 2 upper door switches of this unit. I'm not sure if both were originally broken, or if I broke one while taking it out (one switch separated in half when I tried to take it out of the clips - broke the clips too and needed a new interlock).

I did not know what my auto-ranging digital ohm meter was telling me until I tested the 3rd bottom switch. My two upper switches were showing fluctuating ohm readings on the closed circuit which confused me but in the end showed they were faulty. You should have reading of infinity for open circuit and very close to zero in closed circuit (I had 0.001-0.002 reading).

All in all, problem solved. One other thing to note that Whirlpool has changed one of the switches 2 times (i.e. different part numbers now) perhaps suggesting a faulty/problematic switch in the first place.

B.
 

jeff1

Appliance Tech - Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Oct 10, 2004
Messages
24,022
Location
Ontario, Canada
Thankx for the update, that will help others :)

jeff.
 
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