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Whirlpool Range GFG461LVS1 gas oven - no spark

OvenTroubles

Premium Member
Joined
Feb 9, 2021
Messages
5
Location
Guelph, Canada
Model Number
GFG461LVS1
Brand
Whirlpool
Age
More than 10 years
I have a Whirlpool GFG461LVS1 gas range. The stove burners ignite and operate no problem. The oven bake and broiler burners do not ignite. When I turn the oven on, I can hear the gas valve opening, then 4 clicks as if the igniter is trying to light the burner. I can’t see any spark coming from the igniter (I removed the bottom tray to expose the igniter). After the four clicks, the gas valve closes. I know it is getting gas because I can smell it. No spark and no ignition.

Can anyone help me on how to fix this? I don’t know much about appliances, but I am fairly handy with basic tools.

Thanks in advance!

Added complete model number
 
Last edited by a moderator:

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
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Messages
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Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
Your missing the last digit of the model number, we need that.

Here's the results I get:
GFG461LVS0
GFG461LVS1
GFG461LVS2
GFG461LVS3

Jake
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
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Thanks! It sounds like the spark module is bad.

You can use a multimeter to measure between Red/White (#6) wire and the White (#4) wire on the spark module when set to bake. You should have 110-120 VAC. Then check broil the same way only measure between BU/W (#7) and W.

DSI Gas Range.jpg

Here's the spark module for your model:
WPW10331686 Spark Module


RepairClinic ships to Canada:

Jake
 

OvenTroubles

Premium Member
Joined
Feb 9, 2021
Messages
5
Location
Guelph, Canada
Hi Jake,

My board looked a bit different than the one in the photo, so I had a repair man come. It wasn’t working when he showed up. He unplugged the board, and took a few multimeter readings. When he plugged it back in, everything worked fine and all readings were normal. He said there is no way of telling if it is the DSI board or the control board that is faulty, and that the problem will likely happen again. He also said that by the time you pay for both boards, you may as well buy a new oven (mine is 10 years old).

What are your thoughts? Is there actually no way of determining which board is faulty? It is working now, so I haven’t done anything yet. Is there a chance it may have just been a loose connection and now it’s fixed?

Thanks!
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
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Messages
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Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
When it stops working again, you will need to use your meter to do the voltage tests I posted in post 4 or go buy a new range.:)

That DSI Board is exactly for your model.

Jake
 

OvenTroubles

Premium Member
Joined
Feb 9, 2021
Messages
5
Location
Guelph, Canada
Thanks Jake. I will try that if it dies again. When measuring the voltage, do you need to remove the appropriate wires from the number 6, 4 and 7 connections that you mentioned?

Do you think it could be the control board? Or do you need the voltage readings to determine that?

Thanks!
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
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Messages
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Location
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No, don't remove the wires, just put your meter probes on those wires still attached to your DSI Board.

Do you think it could be the control board? Or do you need the voltage readings to determine that?
That's why you need the multimeter to do the voltage test to determine the bad part.:)

Jake
 

Jake

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Ok, sounds good.

Jake
 

Jay N

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Oct 15, 2021
Messages
4
Location
Canada
Hi, I'm having the same problem... AND another. My oven has had problems igniting for a while, but it's intermittent, meaning right when I've thought about calling someone to look at it, it starts up fine the next day. Now my left front burner won't ignite so I decided to do a little research and found this forum. I have a multi-meter and would like to start trouble shooting, but I have a noob question. When measuring between 6 and 4, I'm assuming the oven is still connected to power in order to read AC? What's the safest protocol for that type of thing? And finally, how can I check my LF as well before ordering parts I might not need? Thank you!
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
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Do you have the exact same model number GFG461LVS1 ? Please make sure, read it from the model number tag on the range, which is usually located at the bottom right or left side leg frame AFTER you pull out the bottom storage drawer.

When measuring between 6 and 4, I'm assuming the oven is still connected to power in order to read AC? What's the safest protocol for that type of thing?
Yes, power must be on, and set to bake when you take the voltage reading with the meter. Just becareful not to touch anything else when you volt test between 6 and 4.

Jake
 

Jay N

Premium Member
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Oct 15, 2021
Messages
4
Location
Canada
Hi Jake, yes I have the exact same model. The number is inside the oven on the front left of the frame. Any tips on testing the front burner ignition? Also, thank you for your time and this resource. The diagrams are really helpful.
 

Jake

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When you turn on the LEFT FRONT burner do you hear it clicking or no clicking for the spark to ignite the gas?

Jake
 

Jay N

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Oct 15, 2021
Messages
4
Location
Canada
Clicks like normal, no ignition. I've lit it with a match once or twice... sorry I'm guessing that's frowned upon.
 

Jake

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To diagnose it, access the module, disconnect the J1 connector from the module. With a multimeter, set for 120 Volts AC, insert the test probes into pin #4(white) and pin #9(red/black), then turn each knob to the "lite" position, You should read 120 VAC across the wires on each test. If so, your switches and wiring are OK, and you'll need the spark module or just the LF surface burner ignitor if that's the only one not sparking.

Whenever any one of the four switches closes (lite position) a circuit is complete. Neutral side of the supply voltage (white wire) from power cord connects to the spark module. L1 (black wire) from power cord connects to each surface valve switch. The other side of the switch (red wire) connects to the spark module.

If any one of the switches is closed, 120 VAC is supplied at the spark module and all four ignitors will spark. If one or more of the igniters doesn't spark the igniter is probably bad. Switch the igniter with a known good igniter.

If it sparks replace the igniter. If it doesn't spark replace the spark module. Turn each knob, one at a time, to the lite position. If none of the igniters spark the switch is bad.

Check the wires between the igniter and the spark module for any breaks or pinched wires.


Here's the spark ignitor for the surface burners:
Igntr-Surf WPW10216419


Jake
 

Jake

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Your welcome Jay, let us know what you find.:)

Jake
 
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