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Whirlpool Range GFG461LVS1 gas oven - no spark

OvenTroubles

Premium Member
Joined
Feb 9, 2021
Messages
5
Location
Guelph, Canada
Model Number
GFG461LVS1
Brand
Whirlpool
Age
More than 10 years
I have a Whirlpool GFG461LVS1 gas range. The stove burners ignite and operate no problem. The oven bake and broiler burners do not ignite. When I turn the oven on, I can hear the gas valve opening, then 4 clicks as if the igniter is trying to light the burner. I can’t see any spark coming from the igniter (I removed the bottom tray to expose the igniter). After the four clicks, the gas valve closes. I know it is getting gas because I can smell it. No spark and no ignition.

Can anyone help me on how to fix this? I don’t know much about appliances, but I am fairly handy with basic tools.

Thanks in advance!

Added complete model number
 
Last edited by a moderator:

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
117,160
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
Your missing the last digit of the model number, we need that.

Here's the results I get:
GFG461LVS0
GFG461LVS1
GFG461LVS2
GFG461LVS3

Jake
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
117,160
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
Thanks! It sounds like the spark module is bad.

You can use a multimeter to measure between Red/White (#6) wire and the White (#4) wire on the spark module when set to bake. You should have 110-120 VAC. Then check broil the same way only measure between BU/W (#7) and W.

DSI Gas Range.jpg

Here's the spark module for your model:
WPW10331686 Spark Module


RepairClinic ships to Canada:

Jake
 

OvenTroubles

Premium Member
Joined
Feb 9, 2021
Messages
5
Location
Guelph, Canada
Hi Jake,

My board looked a bit different than the one in the photo, so I had a repair man come. It wasn’t working when he showed up. He unplugged the board, and took a few multimeter readings. When he plugged it back in, everything worked fine and all readings were normal. He said there is no way of telling if it is the DSI board or the control board that is faulty, and that the problem will likely happen again. He also said that by the time you pay for both boards, you may as well buy a new oven (mine is 10 years old).

What are your thoughts? Is there actually no way of determining which board is faulty? It is working now, so I haven’t done anything yet. Is there a chance it may have just been a loose connection and now it’s fixed?

Thanks!
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
117,160
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
When it stops working again, you will need to use your meter to do the voltage tests I posted in post 4 or go buy a new range.:)

That DSI Board is exactly for your model.

Jake
 

OvenTroubles

Premium Member
Joined
Feb 9, 2021
Messages
5
Location
Guelph, Canada
Thanks Jake. I will try that if it dies again. When measuring the voltage, do you need to remove the appropriate wires from the number 6, 4 and 7 connections that you mentioned?

Do you think it could be the control board? Or do you need the voltage readings to determine that?

Thanks!
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
117,160
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
No, don't remove the wires, just put your meter probes on those wires still attached to your DSI Board.

Do you think it could be the control board? Or do you need the voltage readings to determine that?
That's why you need the multimeter to do the voltage test to determine the bad part.:)

Jake
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
117,160
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
Ok, sounds good.

Jake
 
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