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Whirlpool Refrigerator GB2FHDXWB04 top refrigerator warm freezer cold/correct temp

rxcolder

Premium Member
Joined
Sep 26, 2021
Messages
4
Location
usa
Model Number
GB2FHDXWB04
Brand
Whirlpool
Age
6-10 years
first off- many thanks in advance for suggestions!!

whirlpool GB2FHDXWB04 top refrigerator with lower freezer
the problem i have is that the freezer is functioning normally at freezer temp but top fresh food area is warm
i also noticed that the evap fan in the freezer was not coming on
i suspected the control board and evap fan - i started by replacing the control board and programing the 0-1 code as spec'd on product sticker
there was no change as evap fan stayed off -
when i replace the fan i noticed the installed non functioning evap fan was in a case while the replacement fan was not- checking whirlpool parts site showed the same "non enclosed" motor as my replacement so i went ahead with replacing the motor

after installing the evap-fan motor the refrigerator functioned normally with freezer temp at -2º to 0º and top fresh food area around 34º for 3 days... now i am back to the warm fresh food area and normal freezer temp
a few more notes
-the damper control seems to function normally... it is currently open
-when replacing the evap fan motor there was ice at the top of part of the evaporator- more evidence of the failed evap fan motor

but the failure after replacing control board and evap fan motor also had the fan running an blowing cold air in the freezer but not to top fresh food area...
i am very puzzled
just to add to the puzzle... the damper in fresh food area is open but no cold air flow
the freezer is at -2º the fan is working and there is ice on the evap coils- possible defroster fail?

again many thanks in advance for any and all suggestions!
-r
 
Last edited:

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
123,966
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
Ok,

The 1st photo shows when the auto defrost has failed. The 2nd photo is the far left tunnel for the return air, if that is clogged with frost/ice then that's the problem. So check that first.

(click to enlarge)
inside2.JPG

(click to enlarge)
inside3.JPG

The far left tunnel is for the return air. That's where I see the frost clogging up at and it causing little to no air flow out the air damper in the refrigerator section

Jake
 

rxcolder

Premium Member
Joined
Sep 26, 2021
Messages
4
Location
usa
thank you very much jake!
ok to ask a few more questions?
if auto defrost has failed and with a new control board install would you say the safe bet is the defrost heater?
last one... this model has the return air tunnel in the center with the fan directly below it - cold air is blowing around fine in the freezer but not up to fridge - is it really possible that can freeze up and get blocked as well? (i will be finding out soon enough as i have to go back in)
thank you again jake
-r
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
123,966
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
You can't assume the defrost heater is bad, you need to get a multimeter and ohm test it.:)

Remove the two terminal ends to the defrost heater before ohm testing it.

Make sure you unplug your refrigerator first. Here's the video of how to ohm test your defrost heater:

Here's the defrost heater for your model:
Defrost Heater Assembly WP12729128
whirlpool-heater-evap-33bm-wp12729128-ap6005557_01_l.jpg


Also, Ohm test your defrost thermostat(WHILE ITS FROSTY) with a multimeter to check for continuity(unplug your refrigerator first). Normal ohm reading will be 0 ohms while its FROSTY. Unplug the refrigerator first before ohm testing both parts!

Here's the defrost thermostat for your model, it clips on the top of the evaporator coil:
WPW10165425 Bimetl-Def


If its not frosty, you will have to put it in a glass of ice water for at least 5 MINUTES before ohm testing it, watch this video:


this model has the return air tunnel in the center with the fan directly below it - cold air is blowing around fine in the freezer but not up to fridge - is it really possible that can freeze up and get blocked as well?
Yes, that's why you need to use a hair dryer to defrost it completely.

Jake
 

rxcolder

Premium Member
Joined
Sep 26, 2021
Messages
4
Location
usa
hello again-
first and most important- thank you Jake for your input- i very much appreciate your help-

the problem i am having now is the defrost heater not coming on- i have replaced the defrost thermostat and the defrost heater but the coils are still icing over.
if i did not mention this before i did replace the control board and applied the correct code for this model 01

i will check again for any burnt pins on cable harnesses- but is there a way to set the control board to manually turn on the defrost? for testing purposes only?
i am at a complete loss here
again, many thanks in advance
-r
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
123,966
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
Yes, follow these steps:
Forced Defrost Mode:
The forced defrost function is performed using the refrigerator display and keypad. Enter the Forced Defrost Mode by performing the following sequence of events:
1. Hold the refrigerator door light switch closed.
2. Press the Refrigerator Temperature DOWN /- keypad 3 times consecutively.
Note: The 3 keystrokes must be consecutive and within 10 seconds.
3. Release the refrigerator door light switch.
4. The control will display F- d to confirm entry into the Forced Defrost Mode.
5. Entry is confirmed by pressing the Refrigerator Temperature DOWN /- key once more. The unit is off and in the Defrost Mode.
Note: All control functions will be turned off (Compressor, Defrost, Evaporator Fan, the damper will remain in its current position).
6. The control will default to the short run period test.
Note: You can toggle between the S Short and L Long test mode by pressing the Refrigerator Temperature UP /+ Key. Long Test mode is used for factory test and should not be used in the field.
7. Once the desired mode is displayed, confirm the forced defrost by pressing the Refrigerator Temperature DOWN /- Key once. The defrost will begin immediately and the display will return to a normal operating display
with set point values.
8. Close the Refrigerator door(s). You are in the defrost mode.
Note: Forced Defrost mode can be exited at any time prior to step 7 by closing the Refrigerator Door(s).

Let it stay in defrost mode for about 5 to 10 minutes and feel if the defrost heater is hot.

Jake
 

rxcolder

Premium Member
Joined
Sep 26, 2021
Messages
4
Location
usa
Jake thank you very much again!
of course i have just a few more questions-
i will suspect that the Forced Defrost mode will auto "complete" and go back to "normal" operation after 10-15 minutes?
would you recommend a complete power cycle (pull power plug for 10-30 seconds then plug back in) just to be sure?
if the forced defrost mode does enable and the heater comes on, what would you suspect the problem is?
of course my next question is what would you suspect if the heater does NOT come on?
again, i have replaced the heating element, the defrost thermostat, and the control board-

many thanks again
-r
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
123,966
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
i will suspect that the Forced Defrost mode will auto "complete" and go back to "normal" operation after 10-15 minutes?
Yes

would you recommend a complete power cycle (pull power plug for 10-30 seconds then plug back in) just to be sure?
Yes

if the forced defrost mode does enable and the heater comes on, what would you suspect the problem is?
The JAZZ control board would be the culprit.

Here's the control board(JAZZ) for your model:
WPW10503278 Electronic Control Board


of course my next question is what would you suspect if the heater does NOT come on?
You would then need to ohm test your defrost thermostat and defrost heater with a multimeter like I mentioned above.

If you replaced the defrost thermostat, defrost heater, and JAZZ control board already, then one of those new parts MUST be bad, those are the only parts that control the defrost cycle.

Ohm testing is the ONLY way to determine which part is bad.

Jake
 
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