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Whirlpool Refrigerator GI5SVAXVL01 - Icemaker not functioning

schwim

Premium Member
Joined
Dec 10, 2014
Messages
5
Location
Western NC, US
Model Number
GI5SVAXVL01
Brand
Whirlpool
Age
1-5 years
Hi there!

Whirlpool GI5SVAXVL01

We've purchased a house with a refrigerator that looks like an ice cube has never touched the container they sit in. There was still kind of styrofoam material sitting in the bottom. The water works, I replaced the filter(the well water is poor here so I thought it might be clogged). The toggle switch is set to "On" and the fill bar seems to move freely up and down and when placing a cup in to initiate the dispense operation, the motor does turn the corkscrew.

Would anyone happen to have an idea of what else might be causing this issue? How do I troubleshoot the problem?

Thanks for your time!
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
123,923
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
Put a thermometer in your ice maker compartment and see what the temperature is reading after it sits awhile. It has to be 10 degrees or less at all times or the ice maker WILL NOT cycle.:)

If the temperature is good, then its either your ice maker is bad and not sending the 120 volt signal to the water inlet valve, or the wiring to the water inlet valve is bad, or the water inlet valve is getting the 120 volt signal from the ice maker, but the ice maker side solenoid is not opening up when the ice maker sends 120 volts to it, thus you get no water into the ice maker tray.

You will need a multimeter to volt test

You can force cycle the ice maker and measure the voltage at the water valve solenoid at the end of the harvest cycle. If your meter indicates 120 Volts AC for about 7 seconds, replace the water valve. If your meter indicates less than 100 Volts AC ice maker is the problem.

Read post #5 on HOW TO JUMP T and H to do a FORCE CYCLE in this thread:

Just remove the electrical connector from the ice maker solenoid side of the water inlet valve, then put your meter probes in that electrical connector, then cycle the ice maker and watch the meter to see if you get 120 volts towards the end of the ice maker cycle.

Here's the water inlet valve for your model(There is a video that shows you how to access the water inlet valve inside the refrigerator section):
Water Inlet Valve 67006322

The smaller water line tube goes to the ice maker. So the ice maker side solenoid is the MAROON colored one, put your meter probes in the electrical connector that goes to the MAROON colored solenoid.

Here's the ice maker for your model:
WPW10190981 Icemaker


To see if the wire harness is bad, the last 7-10 seconds of the harvest cycle is the fill cycle. Insert your meter leads into holes "V" and "N" and watch for 120 VAC at the end of the harvest cycle. If the ice maker doesn't start a harvest cycle or if you don't have 120 VAC during the fill cycle, replace the ice maker.

(click to enlarge)
New style IM.jpg

If you get 120 volts between holes "V" and "N" on the ice maker, BUT not 120 volts at the electrical connectors that connect to the MAROON colored solenoid on the water inlet valve, then your wire harness is the problem.

Here's the ice maker wiring harness for your model:
W11256689 Harns-Wire


Jake
 
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