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FIXED Whirlpool Refrigerator GI5SVAXVL01 Icemaker Not Getting Water

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John6185

Premium Member
Joined
Jul 25, 2016
Messages
11
Location
Oklahoma
Model Number
GI5SVAXVL01
Brand
Whirlpool
Age
More than 10 years
I have a WP model GI5SVAXVL01 refrigerator and the ice maker quit. There is no water in the tray and I checked the water inlet valves and both coils ohm out normal. Changed the water filter, jumped the ice maker L and M terminals with an insulated wire (worked before but didn't this time.
Now even after running LOTS of water out of the water dispenser, the water still initially spurts as if there is air in the lies and the water dispenser doesn't shut off immediately, it dribbles when ordinarily the water flow will immediately cease. Otherwise the refrigerator works pretty well at 11 years old.
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
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Messages
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Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
jumped the ice maker L and M terminals with an insulated wire (worked before but didn't this time.
You jump T and H not L and M

To diagnose your issue you'll need a DMM that can measure AC volts, DC volts, and resistance (ohms). Remove the cover over the ice maker module and locate holes "L" and "N" Use your meter to check for 120 Volts AC between "L" and "N". If the voltage is correct force cycle the ice maker.

Here's how:
(click to enlarge)
Short T H small.jpg

Set your meter to measure Volts AC and tape the door switch closed. Measure the voltage in holes "L" and "N" in the power module. The meter should indicate around 120 Volts AC.
l and n.jpg


If the voltage is correct, use the jumper wire and short holes "T" and "H". Make sure the wire ends are touching the metal contacts in the holes. The large white drive gear should start rotating clockwise. Make sure the gear is turning then remove the jumper wire.
t and h.jpg


The ice maker should continue through the harvest cycle and fill cycle.
 

John6185

Premium Member
Joined
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Messages
11
Location
Oklahoma
Jake, thanks for your reply! Here's what happened-there was no 120v between "L and N" and of course no turning of the wheel when I jumped "T and H." Apparently the module is bad and in need of replacement?
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
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Ok, now you will need to ohm test the thermal fuse for continuity. If that thermal fuse is bad you will never get 120 volts between "L and N".

I circled the white thermal fuse in RED, disconnect the wire harness and ohm each side of that violet wire that goes through the thermal fuse and see if it ohms good.

wireharnessthermalfuse.jpg


Here's the ice maker wiring harness for your model:
W11256689 Harns-Wire


Jake
 

John6185

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Jul 25, 2016
Messages
11
Location
Oklahoma
Well Jake, the purple wires ohmed I taped the door switch and checked the voltage between L and N and I’m attaching a photo of what the resulting voltage. I did see some dark marks at the fuse end which led me to believe the fuse has blown but ohming was ok but I don’t get 120v as you can see between L and N.
 

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John6185

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Messages
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Location
Oklahoma
Almost forgot, there was a piece of ice on top of the plastic fingers that was stuck on top of the ice tray which could have been part or the start of the problem. I removed the ice and the small amount of ice within the tray and reinstalled everything.
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
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John6185

Premium Member
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Jul 25, 2016
Messages
11
Location
Oklahoma
Jake, when I ohmed the harness I found that piece of ice frozen on the "fingers" and I removed the ice. This morning I have ice in the bin! Thanks you for all your help, I hope you are rewarded someday because you save a lot off money for the senior citizens!
 

Jake

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Oh ok good John, I saw where you said you knocked the ice off the ejector arm fingers, but I thought it was still not working. So apparently you are getting 120 volts to L and N or it wouldn't be working now.

Glad to hear that's all it was.(y)

Jake
 

John6185

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Jul 25, 2016
Messages
11
Location
Oklahoma
But there is another problem, the water flow to the dispenser is low and I suspect that is why water doesn't shut off quickly and dribbles. I check the water hose leading the refrigerator and it has a great flow but somewhere within the refrigerator there appears to be a restriction. I did change out the filter and no change in PSI. I used the water filter b bypass cap after I removed the filters and no change in pressure. The thing had good PSI before I took the hoses out of the water bypass valve which I did ohm and had continuity.
 

Jake

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Here's the water inlet valve for your model below, when you click the part link to it, there is a video that shows you how to access the water inlet valve inside the refrigerator section.

Water Inlet Valve 67006322


Just remove the plastic water line tubing from the INLET(CIRCLED IN RED) one and get a bucket or container to catch water in and see how fast it flows out when someone presses the water dispenser lever.
whirlpool-valve-dual-water-67006322-ap4081950_01_l.jpg


Jake
 

John6185

Premium Member
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Jul 25, 2016
Messages
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Location
Oklahoma
Well Jake, I disconnected the water supply line as depicted in the red circle and got water in the face and refrigerator I quickly put he supply line back into the inlet valve. I did disconnect the tubing that goes into into the other green outlet and when the water dispenser was operated, the water came out in full force form the valve. Then I replaced the tubing into he valve and the water had good flow out of the dispenser and didn't dribble so the problem is solved!
why it is solved I am not sure...
Thank you!
 

Jake

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Possibly you had air in the lines.

Glad to hear you have full water pressure now.(y)

Thanks for the update!

Jake
 
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