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Whirlpool Refrigerator WRS325SDHV01 - Defrost cycle not working

SpaceCadet21

Premium Member
Joined
Jan 18, 2021
Messages
6
Location
St. Louis
Model Number
WRS325SDHV01
Brand
Whirlpool
Age
1-5 years
Hello everyone!

I seem to be having an all too common problem - defrost cycle not working and evaporator coils (I think that's what they're called) freezing over causing my fridge not cool as well while my freezer is experiencing another ice age.

Last night is the second time I had to manually defrost it, and it has been approximately 4-6 weeks in between the initial start and first manual defrost and another 5-6 weeks until the second manual defrost.

The fridge is out of warranty as far as I know, but it has a manufacturer date of 11/18 - scary it has issues so quickly?

I've seen a couple of threads about this fridge stating that it could be the acb, heating element, or thermometer, and I'd love to check if they work but I have no clue where the thermostat is! I can't find anything looking like the bimetal doo-dad I saw in the pics and videos. I've attached some pics, am I missing something?

Added complete model number
 

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Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
117,052
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
Your missing the last 2 digits of your model number, we need those please. Read it from the model number tag inside the refrigerator section, which is located on the upper walls or ceiling.

Here's the results I get:
WRS325SDHV00
WRS325SDHV01
WRS325SDHV04
WRS325SDHV05

Jake
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
117,052
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
Thanks!

Here's the multimeter I use:
Multimeter DM10T


You can get a multimeter at any hardware store too.

You would first need to ohm the defrost heater, then ohm the inline-thermal fuses that connects to each defrost heater electrical connector terminal.

Here's the defrost heater for your model:
WP2323198 Defrost Heater


Make sure your refrigerator is unplugged before removing the wires from each part for all ohm testing.

Watch this video to ohm test the defrost heater with a multimeter:

Here's the in-line thermal fuses for your model:
W10911770.jpg

They come with the complete wire connector.

Just remove the wire connector(BIG WHITE PLASTIC BLOCK) from where it plugs into its receptacle, then ohm test the 2 wires that connector to your defrost heater, remove those 2 defrost wires first of course.

Jake
 

SpaceCadet21

Premium Member
Joined
Jan 18, 2021
Messages
6
Location
St. Louis
Thanks for the reply Jake. I'll see about getting a Multimeter and testing it out over the weekend. You don't think an acb would have anything to do with this issue? Also, do you know if there is a way to force a defrost cycle on this appliance?

Thanks again for the help!
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
117,052
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
acb? You mean your motherboard?

Also ohm test the evaporator thermistor in a glass of ice water, waiting at least 10 minutes before ohm test it in the glass of ice water.

It should read 8.8kΩ (8325 - 9216) @32 F

Here's the evaporator thermistor for your model:
WPW10384183 Thermistor


Watch this video to ohm test it:

Jake
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
117,052
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
Yes, if both the defrost heater and evaporator thermistor ohm test fine, then only other part that would cause this issue is the motherboard.

Here's the motherboard for your model:

Jake
 

SpaceCadet21

Premium Member
Joined
Jan 18, 2021
Messages
6
Location
St. Louis
Hello Jake,

I've held off on doing this until I needed to defrost the fridge again. Turns out today was that day.
I've tested the defroster and it is giving me about 24.0 ohms of resistance. So that means the defroster is working fine?

I then moved on to the thermal inline fuses. I was able to detach everything from it except the ground that is attached to the fan motor(I'm not sure if that has impact to the reading) but when I connected the diodes to thr ends that were attached to the defroster ends, I wasn't getting any readings at all. When I placed the diode on one of the fuses, I placed tgr other diode the square block where the cable from the fuse terminates. This time I was able to get a reading, but it it was .01ohm. So Its fair to say that the entire harness needs replacing?
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
117,052
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
I've tested the defroster and it is giving me about 24.0 ohms of resistance. So that means the defroster is working fine?
Yes, the defrost heater is good.

I then moved on to the thermal inline fuses. I was able to detach everything from it except the ground that is attached to the fan motor(I'm not sure if that has impact to the reading) but when I connected the diodes to thr ends that were attached to the defroster ends, I wasn't getting any readings at all. When I placed the diode on one of the fuses, I placed tgr other diode the square block where the cable from the fuse terminates. This time I was able to get a reading, but it it was .01ohm. So Its fair to say that the entire harness needs replacing?
I have no clue what your talking about, what diodes? There is no inline fuse for the defrost heater. The only parts it uses is the parts I mentioned above.

if both the defrost heater and evaporator thermistor ohm test fine, then only other part that would cause this issue is the motherboard.
Did you ohm test the evaporator thermistor like I mentioned to do above?

Jake
 

SpaceCadet21

Premium Member
Joined
Jan 18, 2021
Messages
6
Location
St. Louis
Sorry I confused you there, I was referring to the item number 2, the inline thermal fuse (item #2, the wire harness thing) I'm probably using the wrong words for it as well, sorry. I tested the wires that connect to the defrost heater, they each have that black cylindrical thing.

I had the multimeter prongs(diodes?) Touching one end of the harness (the one that plugs into the defrost coil) and the other diode to the other end of tbe harness that plugs into the other end of the defrost coil. (I hope that makes more sense)

I haven't done the thermistor yet as I thought since I wasn't getting any readings or only a .01 on the wires that plug into the hearing coil, that the thermal fuses may be the problem. (The cables with the big white block)
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
117,052
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
LOL, yes I forgot, this model refrigerator does have the defrost heater in-line fuse. In 34 years as a tech I have never seen a in-line fuse on a defrost heater, till this model. I had to re-reread what I mentioned above, sorry about that.

I had the multimeter prongs(diodes?)
We don't call those diodes, they are just called meter probes.

If the numbers on the meter did not change when you ohm tested that in-line thermal fuse, then its bad. The meter should be set at the lowest resistance setting, with tone.

If the numbers changed to 0 ohms and you hear a tone, then its good.

Watch this video:

Jake
 
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