FIXED Whirlpool refrigerator WRS588FIHV00 broken wires

[claycannon43]

Model Number

WRS588FIHV00

Brand

Whirlpool

Age

1-5 years

I have been waiting on a door for a whirlpool refrigerator model WRS588FIHV00 for 4 months so I decided to have a look myself and found broken wires at the bottom on freezer side, a white one and a brown one . I reconnected them but it doesn't appear to be working, is there something else I could do or look at , what should the voltage be at the plug to the actually ice maker ?? Any help would be appreciated thank you

 

[Jake]

Here's your tech. data sheet: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1zt6vxR7gZk_yEBQlXxdflSjvwgfvh3FZ

Here's your ice maker tech data sheet that has troubleshooting in it: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1cM55ONghMG_V99Hdd-ysfueTDjV9Uvsq

Here's the ice maker for your model:
W10873791 Ice Maker


Yes, lots of members have found frayed and broken wires causing the ice maker/and or auger motor to be dead. Remove your bottom kickplate grille, Remove the black wire harness loom too, broken wires can be underneath it.

Another member was having a similar problem here: FIXED: GSF26C4EXY02 Whirlpool Gold Ice Maker Problem Look at his post #6 he found frayed and broken wires underneath the freezer door, remove your kickplate and check for that first.

Here's another one with the same thing about the frayed and broken wires: FIXED: 106.51173310 Kenmore elite ice maker not working - no led light

Here's another: FIXED: Whirlpool WSF26C2EXF01 Door Icemaker Not Working

Let us know what you find.

Jake

 

[jondiehl]

My three year old Whirlpool fridge (WRS588FIHZ) decided to stop delivering ice today. Thanks to this valuable forum and community I was able to quickly discover that this is a common problem with frayed or broken wires at the bottom of the freeze door. Sure enough, my blue wire is sliced through, which is why the auger doesn't respond to the ice pad being pushed.

I'm ready to attempt the splicing repair as many other forum member have already done. However, rather than strip, solder, and then heat shrink the wire, I was thinking of using a heat shrink butt splice on it instead? That seems easier than soldering everything in such a tight space? I guess my only issue is that the butt splice connection would be rather bulky, and I certainly couldn't fit it inside that plastic conduit (although I suspect that I'll have cut all of that off anyway in order to fish out both sides of the blue wire and strip them?).

Gardner Bender 22-18 AWG Butt Splice Terminal with Heat Shrink Insulation (25-Pack) AMT-121

Dependable and easy to use, Gardner Bender terminals (and wiring accessories) offer the high quality and application flexibility that professionals demand. Available in a variety of packaging options,

www.homedepot.com

 

[Jake]

Yes, the heat shrink butt splice should work fine, just make sure its tight and secure.

You can remove that section of plastic conduit and use black electrical tape in that area where you put heat shrink butt splice.

Also make sure those wires are not strained when you open the door, there needs to be slack there, when the door opens.

Jake

 

[jondiehl]

Thanks. It's fixed. I ended up using solder and patching it with an extra 3" of 18awg wire to give it a little more slack. I also didn't put the white clip back that attaches the wires to the frame to allow more slack.

 

[Jake]

Excellent Jon, good job.

Thanks for the update!

Jake