FIXED Whirlpool Refrigerator WRX986SIHZ00 - Freezer won't cool below 20 F

[zyphaz]

Model Number

WRX986SIHZ00

Brand

Whirlpool

Age

1-5 years

Hello, new to the forum, but tried to search for answers and realized everyone's problems may be unique/varying circumstances.

Saturday we noticed that our freezer in our <3 year-old WRX986SHIZ (Purchased 2019 December) was warmer than it should be (30F), we moved everything to the stand-alone freezer and began troubleshooting. Using the tech sheet in the hinge, we ran the same tests asked of many forum posts.

Note: Fridge is cooling fine.

Have not tried defrosting, nor have I pulled the back evap panel to inspect yet.

Run the following tests and post back the results:

Service Test - 1: FC Thermistor
The board will check the resistance value of the thermistor and display flashes results on the Temp display (01 = pass, 02 = open, 03 = short).

01 Returned

Service Test - 2: RC Thermistor
The board will check the resistance value of the thermistor and display the results on the Temp display (01 = pass, 02 = open, 03 = short).

01 Returned

Service Test - 3: Evaporator Fan and Air Baffle Motors
Control the RC and FC evaporator fan motors by depressing SW3
01= both fan motors off. 02 = FC fan on.
Depress SW3 once to advance. Service Test 3 will flash quickly and advance to tests 13/23 very quickly. The result is RC fan on, pantry air damper on. Pantry air damper will open and close automatically (13 = damper open, 23 = damper closed). Verify airflow inside pantry on left hand side when damper is open (13 displayed). Airflow in pantry will cease when “23” is
displayed.

I believe I felt & heard airflow in pantry.

Depress SW3 to advance to the last step (04 = both RC and FC fans on).


Service Test - 4: Compressor/Condenser Fan Motor/ Evaporator Fan
There will be a delay of 3 seconds before start of Sub Step 01. NOTE: Each test is timed and will automatically proceed to the next step. User will not be allowed to exit test. If exit is attempted, an invalid chime will sound. Control the sealed system loads by selecting SW3
01 = initialize dual evaporator valve in home position (4 min.)
02 = close both RC and FC evaporator valves (1 min.)
03 = turn compressor on (1 min.)
04 = keep compressor on. Drive the valve to RC position and turn RC fan on
05 = keep compressor on. Drive the valve to FC position and turn FC fan on
Verify airflow from the evaporator fan.
NOTE: Advance quickly through Service Test 4 to keep from locking in. Once locked in, you cannot exit, and must wait approximately 10 minutes.

Unsure of results here, Missed the timeout to step through quickly and was confused about the 10 minute (11 in my case) lock in

Service Test - 5: Compressor Status/Speed
Initial Display 02 = Minimum speed
Depress SW3. Display = 03. Compressor ramps up to maximum speed.
When maximum speed is reached, 01 is displayed.
Depress SW3. Display = 04. Speed ramps down from maximum to minimum speed. Display = 02.

Tested and returned 01 and 02 as expected.

Added complete model number

 

[Jake]

Hi, We would need the complete model number first. Read it from the model number tag which is located inside the refrigerator section on the upper walls or ceiling.

Here's the results I get:
WRX986SIHZ00
WRX986SIHZ01
WRX986SIHZ03

Look on the back panel inside the freezer, do you see frost build-up on that panel?

And you said the freezer evaporator fan is running inside the freezer? Hold the freezer door switch in and listen for it running.

Jake

 

[zyphaz]

WRX986SIHZ00, just checked, no frost on back panel right now.

We do hear fan when holding freezer door switch.

Also, since moving all items to chest freezer, the temps in the WRX986SIHZ00 freezer have dropped to 3*F. Unsure what changed other than emptying it or if we have an intermittent issue or pending component failure?

 

[Jake]

Thanks!

That's odd, sounds like its intermittent, and intermittent problems are the hard to nail down.

How's it doing now?

Jake

 

[zyphaz]

13*F on an IR thermometer. What is the expected range in the freezer with it empty and set for 0*F.

We did just get through a heat wave here in Southern California. Could this have been overfilled freezer/blocked vents + overworked system due to high ambient temp? We don't have A/C in our home, so temps would have been >90*F for about a week leading up to the issue surfacing.

 

[Jake]

It should be at 0 degrees F and no higher than 10 degrees F.

During Hot summer months if the condenser coil is clogged it will not cool properly.

The factory recommends that you clean your condenser coil underneath your refrigerator every 6-12 months, if you have pets that shed hair, then every 3-6 months.

The condenser coil is located on the bottom of your refrigerator behind the front bottom kickplate grill. Just open the freezer door, then pull that kickplate grill off, PULL HARD it just unsnaps.

Then get a vacuum cleaner attachment or condenser brush to clean your condenser. Even better would be if you have an air compressor or shop vac to blow the condenser coils out, yes its a bit more messy on your kitchen floor, but it cleans it thoroughly.

Vacuum Hose Attachment 8171579A


Refrigerator Condenser Cleaning Brush


Also pull your refrigerator out from the wall and clean in the back with a vacuum or brush.

Jake

 

[zyphaz]

Thanks, I hit the condenser coil with my shop vac from the front. We do have a dog...and admittedly I think the last time it was cleaned was the summer of 2020. Hopefully, that was it. Thanks!

 

[Jake]

Yes, hopefully that was all it was.

How's it doing now?

Jake

 

[zyphaz]

Looking good @Jake

 

[Jake]

Looks good to me too.

Jake