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Whirlpool Refrigerator WRX988SIBM03 Freezer Evap keeps icing over

hamscamaro

Premium Member
Joined
Jul 26, 2021
Messages
2
Location
California
Model Number
WRX988SIBM03
Brand
Whirlpool
Age
1-5 years
Hi,
I want to start off by saying I love this forum! I have been lurking for a while and this forum has helped me solve issues more times than I can count!!

I have an issue with the freezer evap coils. They are constantly icing over! Once a month for the last 5 months, I have to take the freezer a part and pull out my heat gun to melt all of the ice. I notice that the freezer starts to get loud, so I pull off the back cover and all of the coils are iced over and making it hard for the fan to spin. I melt all of the ice and it is good for almost exactly a month, every time.

I thought the seal/gasket around the freezer door might be bad, so I took some vaseline and put it around the gasket. That created a great seal! Kept my fingers crossed that that solved the issue.... but no luck I can see and hear that the coils have iced over again.

Any ideas on what keeps causing this? Anything I should check?

I appreciate any help or ideas any of you may have. Thanks!
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
123,905
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
Hi,

3 parts control the auto defrost circuit---The defrost thermostat, defrost heater, and control board.

Its possibly the defrost thermostat, it ONLY comes with the evaporator fan motor. The defrost thermostat is the black circular part that clips to the top of your evaporator coil.

--->The way to test the defrost thermostat is to unplug the refrigerator from the wall outlet, then pull that plastic electrical connector out that it goes to, it unsnaps, then use your multimeter and set it on 200 ohms and ohm test the defrost thermostat WHILE ITS FROSTY, if it's not frosty you will not get a proper reading. If your meter doesn't change numbers while your ohm testing it, then its bad. It should read 0 ohms WHILE FROSTY.:)

The wires you will need to ohm test from that electrical connector are the orange and brown ones.

Here's the defrost thermostat and evaporator fan motor for your model:
W11032800 Motor-Evap


If you don't have a meter, you can bypass the defrost thermostat and see if the defrost heater comes ON in TEST 6. Your tech. data sheet is located underneath the right side refrigerator upper hinge cover, it gives you the steps to put it in TEST 6.

Look at my post #21 here:

Jake
 

hamscamaro

Premium Member
Joined
Jul 26, 2021
Messages
2
Location
California
Hi Jake,
Thanks for the reply! So I checked ohm tested the defrost thermostat while it was frosty and I was getting readings anywhere from 40-110 ohms. So that told me that the defrost thermostat was good.

So then I moved on to TEST 6. I plugged the fridge back in started test 6. 02 popped up which means that the bi- metal was open. I unplugged the fridge and did the jumper wire test as you described in your post that you linked above. Plugged the fridge in and then ran test 6 again. This time 01 was popping up and I could feel the heater working. I also saw the ice start to melt.

I believe that this means the control board is bad and needs to be replaced. Is this correct? Just want to confirm before I order the part.

Thanks again for all your help!
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
123,905
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
That is correct, you need a new main control board. Make sure you unplug the refrigerator before replacing it.

Here's the main control board for your model you can order:
Main Control Board W10843055


You get $60 credit back on your credit card when you return the old one to RepairClinic.

Let us know the results.

Jake
 
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