FIXED Whirlpool side by side not dispensing ice

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TimBuch

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Sep 5, 2006
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Location
Texas
Model
GD25DIXHS02
Brand
Whirlpool
Age
6-10 years
My 5-1/2 year-old Whirlpool refrigerator (Model #GD25DIXHS02) no longer dispenses ice from the collection bucket. The auger will rotate, but I can easily prevent it from rotating by holding it. I don't think that the problem is due to the coupling from the motor to the underside of the bucket, because if I remove the bucket, the drive shaft rotates, but I can also easily stop it from rotating by gripping it tightly. I suspect that something (a gear?) is broken somewhere in the drive train from the motor to the drive shaft. I have not opened this part of the refrigerator to examine it, so I don't know what kinds of parts are in the linkage. Any ideas?
 

Jake

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jessie30

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newnan, ga
Hi, I need some advise about our Whirlpool Side by Side Conquest. The ice maker stopped making ice. We checked everything we could think of based on troubleshooting tips we found online. Nothing is clogged or froze. The sensor light is blinking red twice and then pauses for a second, then repeats. When we press on the flapper on the left side of the freezer, nothing changes with the blinking pattern. What is wrong and how do we fix it? THANKS!
 

dgodesky

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Severna Park, MD
Whirlpool Ice Dispensor

Hi, the only experience I had with a Whirlpool side by side (we had the Gold model), was with the inlet switch valve failing at the point where the waterline enters the refrigerator. It's an electronic valve that the ice maker signals to let in the water. It happened 2 times over about 10 years. So if you have water flow to the valve but no flow from the valve to the ice maker, I suggest you test the valve - how that's done, I don't know - for me, I just replaced it and it fixed the problem each time. Good luck.
 

Jake

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Hi, I need some advise about our Whirlpool Side by Side Conquest. The ice maker stopped making ice. We checked everything we could think of based on troubleshooting tips we found online. Nothing is clogged or froze. The sensor light is blinking red twice and then pauses for a second, then repeats. When we press on the flapper on the left side of the freezer, nothing changes with the blinking pattern. What is wrong and how do we fix it? THANKS!
We need the model# of your refrigerator.

Click here: Appliance Parts at RepairClinic. 125 Brands. 365 Day Returns.

Then you will see a link that says: Help me find my model number.

Now what position is the ejector arm fingers pointing? Straight down in the tray? Straight up? Pointing at you?

Because the sensor light should be solid red per this test:

Step#1: Open the freezer and view the status led

(STATUS LED)

2 BLINKS FOLLOWED BY 1 SEC. DELAY(REPEATED)

POSSIBLE CAUSES: The flapper door on the emitter is blocking the beam or the optics are faultly.


Step#2: Press the emitter flapper to unblock the optics beam

(STATUS LED)

2 BLINKS FOLLOWED BY 1 SEC. DELAY(REPEATED)

POSSIBLE CAUSES: The optics are faulty. Replace the emitter and receiver boards.

If the LED is on steady: The optics are working properly.

Here are the boards you can order, they come together in 1 kit with instructions and(Video Included):
Whirlpool 4389102 Ice Level Power Control Board Kit


Jake
 

EvinVa

Premium Member
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Jun 10, 2012
Messages
5
Location
Va.
I am having a similar problem with our Whirlpool gold/conquest ice maker. Refridgerator model # GD5RVAXVB04.

The ice maker stopped working entirely at one point, then just started again but was spraying water on the right hand wall as you look into the unit when filling. It was making ice just fine though. No hollow cubes or anything like that. Now it has stopped again altogether. It is not filling with water and none of the usual ice maker "noises". The rotating ejector arms are pointing at about a 2 o'clock angle, or just over my head, if that makes sense.

The optics go 2 blinks then one second pause when just the door is opened. Once the flapper (I believe that is the correct name) is pressed shut or closed to the wall on the left the red light comes on steady.

the water filter is new, and the water dispenser works just fine. I've tried fast ice and regular mode and nothing.

*edit* I've now gone to check and see what light sequence we have with the flapper closed and the door to the ice maker lifted to turn off the interior light, and the steady red light is now off entirely. And the ice maker rotator is moving again. Not sure if the water is filling yet, but it appears the darn thing is working again.

I'm sure this is only temporary and will come and go again, so the original issue remains. Kinda funny though, these things have a mind of their own. It knew what was coming!
 

Jake

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Ok, you can manually fill the ice maker tray with a cup of water, and wait about 2 hours to see if it dumps the cubes, if so, then your ice maker is fine and that just leaves the water inlet valve as the culprit or the black rubber fill tube may be clogged with ice.

I would make sure your black rubber fill tube that puts water in it from the freezer ceiling is not clogged with ice, sometimes you can't see the ice blockage up in there, get something to run up in that fill tube.

I use a evaporator cooler spider snake: http://www.azpartsmaster.com/Products/Cooler-Spider-Snake__CLR4690.aspx

Remove the ice maker first to get better access into that black rubber fill tube.

If that black rubber fill tube is clear, then I'd test the water inlet valve in the back of your refrigerator.

This thread explains how: Testing ice maker water supply at the solenoid

Here's the water inlet valve for your model you can order here:
Whirlpool W10408179 Water Inlet Valve - AppliancePartsPros.com


Here's the instructions TO remove the ice maker assembly:

1. Remove the bucket from the door to get some room.

2. Put a piece of tape on the sensor flapper to hold it down so you won't damage it while removing the ice maker.

3. Remove the ice maker service cover door by spreading the two hinge fingers apart away from the center and the door should lift out of the slot.

4. Remove the screw in the right rear bottom side of the ice maker.

5. After removing the screw that cover should lift up from the rear and just work it out from the rear and you see the electrical harness.

6. On the left track the should be a tab toward the bottom which you need to push up.

7. Push up tab and start working the ice maker towards you pulling it out of the track.

8. Careful with the electrical harness in the back as you're pulling out.

9. Disconnect the electrical plug by lifting the clip on the plug.

10. Remove the side cover on the side module by pulling off.

11. Remove the bottom shield by removing the 3 screws on the bottom.

12. To install reverse the order as it came out.
 

seanmcg

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Oct 9, 2012
Messages
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Location
KY
The ice maker in our fridge(conquest gold gs6shexms00 mfg in 10'04) has suddenly stopped working. Water supply is not kinked. I have tested the inlet valve continuity and got different Ohm readings on the water inlet valve for the freezer vs. the water dispenser. Is that normal ( 227.5 on ice line and 349 water side)? I am not sure if I should replace inlet or suspect the ice maker is the culprit. Any help/advice is much appreciated.
 

Jake

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Ok, you can manually fill the ice maker tray with a cup of water, and wait about 2 hours to see if it dumps the cubes, if so, then your ice maker is fine and that just leaves the water inlet valve as the culprit or the black rubber fill tube may be clogged with ice.

Direct test the water inlet valve in the back of your refrigerator.

This thread explains how: Testing ice maker water supply at the solenoid

Jake
 

seanmcg

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KY
Jake thanks for the timely reply. The tray was empty when I started so I filled the tray and no ice dumped after several hours. My assumption now is the ice maker is the issue as the optics light remains steady when the door open and the flapper depressed.. Do you recommend the solenoid jumper test before ordering the ice maker? Any additional parts that could be suspect?
 

Jake

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GameEngineer

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San Diego, CA
My turn! :) Our fridge also recently decided to stop dispensing. But... I did some research even as far as stripping down the front door dispenser to reveal the potential problem. The pad switches make a small click (probably the circuit board relay sound) but the motor does not turn. The outside door motor does work but not the larger motor that connects to the auger and rotating plate that actually dispenses the ice. But then, while pressing the pad I wiggled the wire harness that connects to the large motor and bingo, it ran! But as I wiggled the cable it would start and stop. Ok so it doesn't take a genius to figure that for some reason this connection is bad.

So before I spend $110 on a new motor I need to find out some things. Can I (or should I) just get the wire cable the connects the motor to the main circuit board? Or does this cable come with the motor? I could not see this cable in the diagrams you find on the web. Is there a known way to fix this connection problem with the existing parts? ($110 is much cheaper than a new fridge so I will go there if needed)

Whirlpool Gold, side by side
Model: GD5NVAXSA02

Thanks!

Steve
 
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Jake

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My turn! :) Our fridge also recently decided to stop dispensing. But... I did some research even as far as stripping down the front door dispenser to reveal the potential problem. The pad switches make a small click (probably the circuit board relay sound) but the motor does not turn. The outside door motor does work but not the larger motor that connects to the auger and rotating plate that actually dispenses the ice. But then, while pressing the pad I wiggled the wire harness that connects to the large motor and bingo, it ran! But as I wiggled the cable it would start and stop. Ok so it doesn't take a genius to figure that for some reason this connection is bad.

So before I spend $110 on a new motor I need to find out some things. Can I (or should I) just get the wire cable the connects the motor to the main circuit board? Or does this cable come with the motor? I could not see this cable in the diagrams you find on the web. Is there a known way to fix this connection problem with the existing parts? ($110 is much cheaper than a new fridge so I will go there if needed)

Whirlpool Gold, side by side
Model: GD5NVAXSA02

Thanks!

Steve
Hi Steve,

Don't think its the wire harness itself, its more like possibly a loose pin connector at where it connects to the motor or the motor pin is loose itself, I'd check that first.

Read this:

Now some models you have to do access the auger motor from the front dispenser:
The screws that I had to remove were actually on the outside of the freezer door. I removed the drip pan which slides out for cleaning, then removed the two screws behind it. That allowed the front panel to slide off. Then I just removed the four screws holding the motor in place. Before you can remove the motor, you have to open the freezer, take the ice holder out and remove the 2 screws holding the turning mechanism in place. One you do that, you have to remove all of those parts including the long metal pole which is inserted into the motor.

Here's a good thread about it too: KSRS25FTMS01 Auger Motor Replacement

Here's the ice dispenser auger motor for your model:
Whirlpool 2252130 Dispenser Motor


Jake
 

GameEngineer

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Thanks Jake! I'll pull out the motor this weekend to see if there is anything obvious. Motor is probably sealed so it may be difficult to impossible to see if one or more of its pins are broken inside. Probably will just order one since it is the most likely culprit.

Steve
 

Jake

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Yes Steve, I agree.

Jake
 

Das Boots

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San Diego
Hello Jake and everybody...I'm kinda late on the game. I have read through everybody's thread and each has their own problems. I might have a slightly different situation....maybe. My model is GS6NHAXVS01 and is side-by-side. My ice maker has frozen up that it stopped producing any ice. The chute and the inside tray with fingers has frozen ice. And the ice maker has ice that has not moved. The fingers are still down. I did notice some icycles from excess water that has frozen up. Might have come from the ice maker? Anyway, I did remove the ice maker from your previous threads on how to remove the ice maker. I have washed off all of the frozen ice and dried the ice maker. Then I re-installed and reconnected the wiring. And after 4 hours and counting...still no ice. The signal sensor no matter I close the flap or turn off the switch is always two blinks then blank and then start all over again. It's as if there is no water going into the chute and into the ice maker. But I do get cold water on the other paddle. Do I need a new ice maker? Or my sesnsor? What is the part number? I also placed some water into the ice maker to do a test. Have to wait for it to make ice. Thanks.

Lawrence
San Diego, CA.
 
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Jake

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Hello Jake and everybody...I'm kinda late on the game. I have read through everybody's thread and each has their own problems. I might have a slightly different situation....maybe. My model is GS6NHAXVS01 and is side-by-side. My ice maker has frozen up that it stopped producing any ice. The chute and the inside tray with fingers has frozen ice. And the ice maker has ice that has not moved. The fingers are still down. I did notice some icycles from excess water that has frozen up. Might have come from the ice maker? Anyway, I did remove the ice maker from your previous threads on how to remove the ice maker. I have washed off all of the frozen ice and dried the ice maker. Then I re-installed and reconnected the wiring. And after 4 hours and counting...still no ice. The signal sensor no matter I close the flap or turn off the switch is always two blinks then blank and then start all over again. It's as if there is no water going into the chute and into the ice maker. But I do get cold water on the other paddle. Do I need a new ice maker? Or my sesnsor? What is the part number? I also placed some water into the ice maker to do a test. Have to wait for it to make ice. Thanks.

Lawrence
San Diego, CA.
Hi Lawrence,

Anytime the ejector fingers are stuck pointing down into the tray, that always means your ice maker is bad.

Your model takes the exact same ice maker I posted the link to above in post#11, you can click that link and order it and you will be go to go.:)

Jake
 

Das Boots

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Looks like it then. Even after I placed water into the ice maker, it did not move or do anything all night. So, what about the sensor/optics? The two blinks and then a pause and then repeat? They would sense that the ice maker is bad? Waiting so I can place an order ASAP. Thanks again.
 
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Jake

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Yes, because the ejector blades are not in there normal resting position, thats why your getting the two blinks and then a pause and then repeat.

Jake
 
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