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Whirlpool washer LSQ8512KQ0 doesn't drain before spin cycle - is this normal?


Premium Member
Apr 30, 2013
Culver City
Model Number
More than 10 years
HI All! Thank you for reading and helping! I've noticed that my Whirlpool washer LSQ8521 doesn't drain the water before it starts to spin. I think it used to drain first. It seems like it's an awful lot of weight for the motor, etc to spin first. It DOES drain as it's spinning and the clothes aren't wet at the end. I'm just concerned something is going to break/wear from the load. And in fact I just recently replaced the bottom agitator portion because the tabs had broken off on top, and have had to replace the agitator dogs several times, so maybe all this is because of the wear? Now I think those were symptoms and I'm trying to get to the bottom of the problem. I just watched the motor shaft to the drain pump during a cycle and it does spin counter clockwise during the wash cycle to recirculate and then clockwise during the spin cycle, so the drain pump gets power and isn't clogged because all the water does drain out. But there was no just draining in between agitating and spinning. Just to be sure I removed both hoses from the drain pump and they are clear. Inside the drain motor the impeller is clear and moves freely in both directions, so I don't think anything is stopping the draining, but it's not being called for. Any thought? Or anything else I should check/observe? Thanks!
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washer doesn't drain the water before it starts to spin. I think it used to drain first.

It should drain before starting to spin. It has what is referred to as a 'neutral drain' system. Failure to do so is a problem inside the transmission. There is a repair kit to fix that failure:

LINK > Neutral Drain Repair Kit

You can get an idea of what is involved in the repair in this and other YouTube videos.

Dan O.
Oh my goodness, thank you so much! I spent all day searching the internet and didn't find anything about the neutral drain! I've ordered the parts. Thank you!
Will do! Parts aren't arriving until Monday.......and washer is in a tight spot in a very small laundry room, so I have to figure out how to drop the transmission......
I am deep into this disassembly now to prepare for installing the neutral drain repair kit. I am at the point where the gearcase should slide out, but it only comes out about 2 inches, this much slides out easily, see picture and then stops. I did remove the metal clip and plastic piece around the spline under the agitator, after removing the agitator, so that is not stopping it. I'm unsure whether I should tap on the top of the spline shaft in the tub, or what? I've never done this before so I don't want to damage anything. The Appliance Clinic directions above and a video I was watching both say it should just slide out, but it doesn't. Thanks


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It can be a bit of a struggle as seen at the video below. I don't know what would be holding it securely. It might be possible to tap the top of the transmission (but not the centre agitate shaft) with something soft like a rubber or wooden mallet, to try to free it up.

Maybe another tech that was faced with a similar experience will share how they overcame it?

Dan O.
Ok, it came right out this morning! I injected some WD-40 down around the spline last night, so either that or I wiggled it more aggressively, but it slid right out. Back on track.......
Ok, so the neutral drain kit is in, resealed the gear case, let it cure 24 hours. Then started to reassemble, and when the transmission was horizontal the new honey colored gear oil (so it's obvious it's the new stuff) started leaking out from the shaft. Not from the edge of the gear case, and not from the bolts, but from the shaft. :( I watched alot of repair videos and nobody said anything about replacing a seal, although I did wonder about it. Searched the site and found another video about replacing that seal for leaking transmission fluid, and 2 MORE seals on the spin tube. So, is it worth it? Do I need to disassemble the transmission again and replace the pinion seal? What about the spin tube seals? Or is it a non-issue because once it's in and vertical for operation there is no gear oil up that high so it doesn't really matter?
Actually now I'm remembering that there was a circular spring that popped out when I took it apart originally. Again, something I never saw mentioned anywhere! But it seemed to fit perfectly inside the lip of the gearcase shaft seal, so I put it there when I reassembled. Did I do that wrong? I assumed it was to apply light positive pressure for seal to shaft.
I'm not certain I know the type of seal involved. Some seals have a coiled spring around their center to provide the tension on its inner circumference. You can see the silver spring in this image:


Just to let you know, I have not performed this service myself. Such work was left to our 'shop man'. There was however another forum member that recently rebuilt the same transmission. Maybe @daveblanchard will offer some advice?

Dan O.
Yes, thank you, this is where I put the spring back after it popped off, so that's good. I don't understand why it's leaking so much unless I disturbed one of the two seals when I disassembled it. I didn't check them - I was just following the videos. I guess I have to disassemble all and replace the seals! But what do you think about packing the inside of my old seal with "center tub seal" ?
But what do you think about packing the inside of my old seal with "center tub seal" ?

I don't know what that means.

If you can wait, hopefully someone else will reply with actual experience. I will tell you that whenever ouir shop guy worked on a greacase, they kept it upright only.

Dan O.
Ok, I'm going to answer my own question in case it helps someone else. I tried it again and observed closely - turns out that the oil only leaks out a little when it is wiggled and jiggled to insert the agitator shaft, which compressed the seal this way and that so oil oozed out. Once it's in no more oil leaked out, even when left horizontal for an extended period of time. So I think it's ok to not change the seal.

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