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Whirlpool Washer WTW7300XW0 F50 fault.


Premium Member
Dec 7, 2020
Model Number
6-10 years
Hi Everyone,
So, here's my sad tale of woe.

About two years ago, I got an F50 fault. I pulled the washer, checked everything, cleaned the leads, and everything seemed to be fine.
Last week, I got an F50 again about 45% through a wash cycle. Again, I pulled the stator. . .and then I had this (stupidly) bright idea of cleaning the leads with brake cleaning fluid (I'm a car guy). The stuff melted my nitrile gloves, so I immediately hit everything with WD40 and cleaned out the contacts.

So then, I ordered a rotor position sensor.

When the part arrived, I replaced the old one. It was then I noticed that the wires in the wiring harness to the stator had frayed, the red wire being almost completely gone. I got some 18ga speaker wire and patched the connector and the harness.

The washer did one wash just fine. Then on the second wash, it stopped again 45% into the cycle (70min run with 38min left). Somewhere along the way, I remember an Sd fault as well before the F50 fault . . . it showed an Sd fault for a few minutes before the F50 came. It may have occurred after I tried to redo the cycle or it might have been when I checked on the wash mid-cycle.

As the same as last week, when I sent it into drain and spin, it would get stuck at the 12min mark, then eventually give me the F50 error.

Control board is my next guess, except they're no longer in production and are out of stock anyways. So, do I have a fancy paper weight now?


Last edited:
I got some 18ga speaker wire and patched the connector and the harness.
Hi Jack,

I don't think you can use speaker wire, use regular electrical wire, then try it again. Any hardware stores sells regular electrical wire.

I'm attaching your tech. data sheet below.

F50 is Motor Stalled
F then 50 flashes when the motor rotor position sensor (RPS) senses no rotation.
--->Does basket turn freely? If not, make sure bottom shipping pack has been removed.
Determine cause of friction.
--->If basket turns freely, see TEST #3, page 4.



  • W10326016-reva.pdf
    790.3 KB · Views: 192
Hi Jack,

I don't think you can use speaker wire, use regular electrical wire, then try it again. Any hardware stores sells regular electrical wire.
Hi Jake,

Thank you so much for responding and so quickly! As for speaker wire, I talked to an electrical guy. He said it would be fine in the short term, but the wires in appliances are made of chemical and heat resistant jackets. So, in the long run, the speaker wire will fail.

At any rate, I went through the manual, went to the diagnostic mode, and ended up on page 4. Going through Test #3, I failed at step 5. P5 gave no resistance. Not being an electrical guy, I can only assume that's no bueno, e.g. that part of the board is fried and not conducting any current much less resisting. I tried my (cheapo) multimeter in every ohm setting (since I'm not an electrical guy). P10 gave me readings for everything. Some good, some not so great. But everything gave me a reading at the 20k setting.

Am I correct that this means the board is bad and needs replacement? Any thoughts on where I can pick up one at something less than MSRP (assuming it's available at all)?

So. . .I'm a little attached to this washer. When the bearing went out 3 years ago, I almost threw it out. . .then I figured, if I can work on cars, how bad could this be? Bought $120 of tools and $80 in parts and fixed it. My attachment is a bit of in for a penny and in for a pound. That and I tend to get attached to things I invest time into.

Again, Jake, thank you for getting back with me! If you're ever in Houston, look me up and let me buy you a drink.

Ok Jack,

TEST 3 step 5. Visually check that the P5 and P10 connectors are inserted all the way into the machine/motor control.
---> If visual checks pass, go to step 6.
---> If visual checks fail, reconnect P5 and P10 and repeat step 1.

Step 12. If the Diagnostics motor test in step 1 failed, then the machine/motor control has failed:
--->Unplug the washer or disconnect power.
--->Replace the machine/motor control assembly.
--->Perform the Motor Diagnostics in step 1 to verify repair.

Yes, bad machine/motor control assembly.

It's No Longer Available, I don't know where else you can get it since its been discontinued:

So, the saga continues. Bought a used board off eBay. Before I installed the board, I checked the resistance on P10 and P5. No reading at P5. Quick refund makes me think the board was not really tested as claimed. I'm starting to think this might be a common failure point. Ordered another one supposedly removed from a new washer that was dented and thus scrapped. We shall see. . .
At some point, I've gotta find another hobby. . .:ROFLMAO:
Ok, keep us posted on that other one you just ordered.

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