Whirlpool WGG745S0FH02 Double Gas Oven - Both bake functions and broil function won't light up

[farluccio]

Model Number

WGG745S0FH02

Brand

Whirlpool

Age

1-5 years

I have a Whirlpool Double Gas Oven, Model WGG745S0FH02. Both bake functions and broil function won't light up. The igniters will turn on and glow, no gas flow. Top burners work just fine. I tested all of the igniters ohms. All three were within typical igniter range - 135ish ohms. Checked the regulator switch, tried both up and down just to make sure. Replaced the control circuit board and everything works the same. (There was one random time where I switched to a rapid preheat for the bottom oven. It fired up and then turned off at 150 degrees. Hasn't ever done it again.)

I was debating whether to try a new gas regulator, but after the bottom oven came on once I figure it has gas flow... Maybe I'm dead wrong on that. If I leave the bake function on, the oven never throws a code after sitting for awhile without lighting.

 

[Dan O.]

Both bake functions and broil function won't light up.

In neither oven?

I tested all of the igniters ohms. All three were within typical igniter range - 135ish ohms.

The meaningful measurement needed to determine the operational condition of the ignitors is the amperage draw as described at the following link. Ignitors can glow and still be defective.

Appliance411 FAQ: Understanding Gas Oven Ignition Systems

When a gas range's oven is not working I frequently hear the question, 'How to I light the pilot in my oven?' The first thing that is needed is to be sure your model actually has a

www.appliance411.com

The ignitors on that model should draw 3.2 - 3.6 amps to properly open the oven gas valve. That should be the first thing that needs to be done before condemning any other parts.



Dan O.

 

[farluccio]

Thanks Dan O for the response.

I can definitely test the igniters drawing amperage. All three would have to be faulty though, all going at the same time....(the broiler igniter, the upper oven igniter, and the lower oven igniter).

 

[Dan O.]

We have found that the higher humidity during summer months can affect the resistance of ignitors which can in turn affect a 'weak' (ie. failing) or borderline oven ignitor so multiple could appear to fail at the same time.

Dan O.

 

[Dan O.]

I can definitely test the igniters drawing amperage.

Let us know the results.

Dan O.

 

[farluccio]

Sorry for the delayed response. My multimeter was not picking up amps for whatever reason. Finally scrounged up another one.

I'm super puzzled now... When I turned on the igniters to test for amps they came on and stayed on for a long period of time. Before they were coming on, just getting past the orange glow, and then turning off. Maybe 15-20 seconds. Now they are staying on till I get bored and cancel them. I've changed nothing. There were several power cycles as I was unplugging and plugging. (Before when I would turn on an igniter would glow then go off and the oven would need a reset for the igniter to respond again.)

Good news is they are pulling 3.1 amps. Bad news, why the change in functionality, and will it revert back to what it was doing?

I'll get it hooked up to gas a little later today to see if gas will flow.

 

[Dan O.]

Before they were coming on, just getting past the orange glow, and then turning off.

IF that was really occurring, power to the ignition system was dropping out for some reason. The ignitor needs to glow whenever the burner is ON. It is possible for the gas flow to stop while the ignitor is still glowing due to ignitor failure. (Ignitors can glow and still be defective.)

As the control cycles the burner to regulate the temperature the ignitors (and burner) will cycle on and off together but only when the desired temperature is sensed by the thermostat. If the control is calling for heating, the ignitor has to glow.

Good news is they are pulling 3.1 amps.

The only good news is that you were able to get the reading. The bad news is that amperage draw is too low. As stated previously, the ignitors need to draw 3.2 - 3.6 amps to properly open the oven gas valve. The higher within that range the better.

No wonder it was borderline whether the gas valve would open or not. I'm sorry to say any ignitor drawing only 3.1 amps needs to be replaced.

Further bad new is the ignitors called for on your model are unusually high priced.

LINK > WGG745S0FH02 Bake Ignitor WPW10324738

LINK > WGG745S0FH02 Broil Ignitor WP7432P143-60

While I usually suggest only using the manufacturer's recommended parts, those parts are ridiculously priced IMO. The following OEM Whirlpool replacement kit could likely be used to replace either of the original ignitors. The wiring would need to be spliced but those ignitor kits come with appropriate connectors.

LINK > Whirlpool/Maytag Oven Ignitor Kit

They are still OEM Whirlpool parts and should be Whirlpool quality and not iffy aftermarket parts from offshore or elsewhere.

Dan O.

 

[farluccio]

I should have been more specific, Broiler 3.1 amps, Top Oven 3.5 amps, Bottom Oven 3.4 amps.

Thanks Dan O for the links. I'll use your link to replace the Broiler igniter. Can I chip you some money for your help?

I'm still a bit leery about the whole power dropping out from the igniters... Nothing to do except use it and see if the problem comes back.

 

[Dan O.]

Yes, those another values look fine so you'll have to check the exact symptoms again. Let us know.

If you make a purchase from the links I provided I'll receive a small commission. It doesn't affect your cost. You needn't tip me otherwise but you can donate to Jake who runs the forums using the link at the very bottom of the page.


Dan O.

 

[farluccio]

Well it's back. Turn on bake or broil, igniter comes on, as it is climbing in amps pulled it turns off. Gas doesn't flow. It doesn't reset till I unplug and plug in the oven. Had one instance, out of five times, where gas did turn on, didn't ignite. It never tried to turn on and try again. (waited about 15 min)

 

[farluccio]

After unplugging and plugging in. The first cycle worked great. After waiting a bit, another cycle had the igniter come one, gas light up, and then the igniter turned off long before oven reached temp resulting in the gas getting turned off. Another cycle immediately after had the igniter come on briefly, as it started to fade, gas came on, no light.

 

[Dan O.]

Turn on bake or broil, igniter comes on, as it is climbing in amps pulled it turns off.

Do both bake and broil act exactly the same?

The things that will intermittently stop the ignitor from glowing:

1. The control system (in your case the electronic control) cutting power to the ignition circuit. (Disconnecting then reconnecting power to get it working might point to this cause.)

2. An intermittent electrical connection inside the ignitor. Extremely rare and even more so if more than 1 burner is acting the same.
3. An intermittent electrical connection inside the gas valve. Pretty rare and even more so if more than 1 burner is acting the same.

4. A loose wiring connection in the ignition circuit wiring from the control to the ignitor that opens when it is taxed as power is applied. This would usually only affect one burner at a time.

5. A safety thermostat cutting power to the ignition circuit. That usually only occurs during an overheat condition but a failing thermostat might act unusual. I do not know if there is such a thing on your model as I haven't looked at its wiring diagram... if I can even find a copy.


Basically, someone needs to trace the electrical circuit for the ignitor to try to determine where the stoppage is. It usually has to be done when the problem is present as you said, once disconnected it resets. If more than one act exactly the same, something in common with both circuits would be suspect.


I'll see if I can find a wiring diagram after dinner or you can look at the one in the appliance.

Dan O.

 

[farluccio]

I can't seem to find a common behavior on any of them. Bake and Broil are all intermittent. All have failed the same way at some point or another. Multiple fail types up till now. Igniters going off prior to pulling enough amps. Igniters going off after ignition but before temp is reached.

I think at this point I'm going to call it. I can do basic electrical, but tracing something is beyond me. I'm also sinking too much time into this. It's been raining so that's the only reason it's got as much attention as it has. I'll pull the main pieces and sell them.

Thanks for your help Dan O!!

 

[Dan O.]

I'll pull the main pieces and sell them.

As long as you keep in mind or note to prospective buyers, the ones that might be faulty.


Happy shopping!

Dan O.