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Whirlpool wine cooler WWC2687BLS: compressor only starts once

Sirhomealot

Premium Member
Joined
Dec 9, 2017
Messages
8
Location
Toronto Canada
My 6-year old whirlpool wine cooler will only start a compressor cycle after being unplugged and then plugged back in. Even then, it only completes one cycle, bringing the temp down nicely, but then never starts another cycle as long as it remains plugged in.

I have already tried replacing the start relay and the overload, and then tried replacing both of these with a Supco 810 3-in-1 hard start kit. Same symptoms with each attempt.

So now I’m stumped. Clearly the compressor works, but it’s just not being triggered to cycle on and off correctly? Any advice would be welcome.
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
113,026
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
Hi,

Your wine cooler model number WWC2687BLS does not pull up as good, please recheck it.

It sounds like your temperature control thermostat is the problem.

Jake
 

Sirhomealot

Premium Member
Joined
Dec 9, 2017
Messages
8
Location
Toronto Canada
Also: the temperature is being accurately measured by the control panel: I can see readings for both upper and lower zones. So the fridge “knows” what temperature it is. It just isn’t able to trigger a compressor cycle when the temperature rises above the set values.
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
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Aug 24, 2004
Messages
113,026
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
It still won't pull up for me with WWC287BLS-1.

Some Canadian models won't pull up at all.


Also: the temperature is being accurately measured by the control panel: I can see readings for both upper and lower zones. So the fridge “knows” what temperature it is. It just isn’t able to trigger a compressor cycle when the temperature rises above the set values.
Yes, I know, but what I'm saying is the temperature control thermostat tells the compressor to come ON and turn OFF, so if its not telling the compressor to Turn ON, then you need to get a multimeter and check for 120 volts at the compressor start relay when it should be running.

Jake
 

Sirhomealot

Premium Member
Joined
Dec 9, 2017
Messages
8
Location
Toronto Canada
Ok, I'll look into getting one of those. Assuming for the moment that it is a faulty temperature control thermostat, is it easier to replace it, or buy one of those external bypass thermostats?
 
Last edited:

jackofalltrades

Appliance Tech
Joined
Aug 2, 2006
Messages
906
Location
NY
Not familiar with this unit but if you are getting a digital temperature reading then this unit doesn't have the old fashioned capillary tube thermostat. It probably has sensors that the control board uses to then display the temperatures for each section. After the compressor shuts off and the temperature inside the cooler starts to rise, do the temperatures for the upper and lower zones agree with one another (within a few degrees) or is one temp way different than the other?
Also once you realized the hard start did not solve the problem, I hope you removed it and re-installed the original relay and overload. If not I highly suggest that you do. If you have thrown it out I would highly suggest ordering new ones . These hard starts do not supply thermal protection. If your condenser fan motor fails the compressor will overheat . The hard start will not shut it down as the original overload would because the original overload is attached to the compressor where as the hard start overload is internal and not attached to the compressor
 

Sirhomealot

Premium Member
Joined
Dec 9, 2017
Messages
8
Location
Toronto Canada
Not familiar with this unit but if you are getting a digital temperature reading then this unit doesn't have the old fashioned capillary tube thermostat. It probably has sensors that the control board uses to then display the temperatures for each section. After the compressor shuts off and the temperature inside the cooler starts to rise, do the temperatures for the upper and lower zones agree with one another (within a few degrees) or is one temp way different than the other?

They mostly agree with one another - usually within 2-3 degrees.

Also once you realized the hard start did not solve the problem, I hope you removed it and re-installed the original relay and overload. If not I highly suggest that you do. If you have thrown it out I would highly suggest ordering new ones . These hard starts do not supply thermal protection. If your condenser fan motor fails the compressor will overheat . The hard start will not shut it down as the original overload would because the original overload is attached to the compressor where as the hard start overload is internal and not attached to the compressor

No I haven't -- but I will now! I suspected as much when I ordered it -- after all how can something sense heat if it isn't directly connected to the source of the heat? That said, it's a pain in the ass. I had to removed the socket-style spades at the end of the two power wires in order to wire in the 3-in-1, and now I'll have to put new ones on. :-(

But all of this aside, any idea what has failed? I was really hoping this would be a simple repair... ;-)
 

jackofalltrades

Appliance Tech
Joined
Aug 2, 2006
Messages
906
Location
NY
Not sure since I have no experience on this unit. If it was my cooler I would order the sensors (probably has 2 ) and the main control board. 3 reasons why.
1. The sensors are cheap (under 10 dollars)
2.The control board is cheap too (55 dollars on repairclinic.com)
3. Most importantly.Even if the board is not the problem it's nice to have a spare one because your unit is of the age when manufacturers like to discontinue making parts. As a matter of fact repairclinic shows out of stock on the sensors. That often means the part has been discontinued from my experience.
The link you posted for parts shows the sensor as "97 in stock-can be back orderd". Not sure what that means .
Here is the board
https://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Main-Control-Board/DG3261/2112913
Here is the sensor
https://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Humidity-Sensor/DG87W/2112981
 

Sirhomealot

Premium Member
Joined
Dec 9, 2017
Messages
8
Location
Toronto Canada
Thanks. Here's the thing though. I'm already about $60 and a good 20 hours into this repair. Any more repairs that don't fix the problem get me dangerously close to just-buy-a-new-one territory. Given that, if the fridge is reporting the correct temps in the two zones, how likely is it that the sensors are the problem?
Similarly, I'm happy to replace the PCB (though I've looked at the instructions to do so and it's big pain in the a$$) but only if it's got a high likelihood of fixing the problem.
Before I start ordering parts and blocking off half a day for the repair, can you think of any other part(s) that might be responsible for this symptom?
And thanks again -- really appreciate the advice!
 
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