• ** REMEMBER! **The microwave can still shock you even unplugged!!

    ALWAYS discharge the high-voltage capacitor first if you even think your hands will come close to any HIGH VOLTAGE components.

    Jeff mentions this: Anything in the high voltage ( magnetron, capacitor, diode, wires to and from ):
    ...Use a metal ( not the shiny chrome type ) screw driver with a insulated handle to short across ( touch both at the same time ) the terminals of the high voltage capacitor to discharge it.

    From Jeff's site: http://www.applianceaid.com/component-testing.php

    Jake

FIXED Whirlpool WMH31017FS0 blowing fuse - initially had door open error

fridge

Premium Member
Joined
Dec 27, 2011
Messages
6
Location
chicago
Model Number
WMH31017FS0
Brand
Whirlpool
Age
1-5 years
Thanks for looking

Microwave is under 2 years old - Here's the sequence of events to the blown fuse:


  • After about 3 months of owning the microwave cooktop light stopped working. I assumed it was the light bulb and never fixed it.
  • About a month ago the microwave light started to flicker and there was clicking when you opened the door. I was going to troubleshoot the door switches when i got time. I believe the top switch is causing the flicker. The microwave continued to "work"
  • About 2 weeks ago i started getting a "Door" open error and depending on how gently you opened the door I could still get the microwave to cook.
  • Randomly the cooktop light starts working again
  • A few days ago i took a pair of needle nose pliers and pushed the top switch in and pulled it back out to see what would happen. It seemed like the switches were in sync, the light came on in the microwave and i thought it was going to let me cook. I closed the door and the fuse blew. Replaced the fuse and to no surprise it blew the fuse immediately when i plugged it back in.

Would a bad door switch cause the fuse to blow? I'm trying to decide how much effort/money i want to put into this microwave. Any suggestions are appreciated. I have no confidence replacing the switch is going to fix my problem any more.

Thanks
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
99,846
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
Hi,

I'll see if Rick can assist you.

Jake
 

rickgburton

Appliance Tech - Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Jul 11, 2006
Messages
33,434
Location
Murray, Utah 84107, United States
You may have more than one bad switch or the latch switch bracket is out of adjustment . There are three microswitches, primary, secondary, and monitor. The monitor switch is also called a "dead man" switch. Whenever the door is open L1 is shorted to N at the monitor switch. When the door is closed the switch is open. Always check resistance and continuity with the power removed from the machine. Open and close the door to check the switches for continuity with the wires removed from the switches.

W10727360 Switch
whirlpool-switch-w10727360-ap5950105_01_m.jpg

W10269458 Switch
whirlpool-switch-w10269458-ap4429884_01_m.jpg

W10269460 Switch
whirlpool-switch-w10269460-ap4429920_01_m.jpg
 

fridge

Premium Member
Joined
Dec 27, 2011
Messages
6
Location
chicago
Thanks Rick

Primary switch was shot. Other two were working fine. Replaced the switch and fuse and I'm good.
 
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