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FIXED Whirlpool WRF989SDAM03 - LED light and Ice maker issues

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dameyerfamily

Premium Member
Joined
Jan 13, 2022
Messages
13
Location
Ohio
Model Number
WRF989SDAM03
Brand
Whirlpool
Age
6-10 years
We have owned our WRF989SDAM03 French Door Whirlpool refrigerator since 2014. We had one little issue when we first bought, but it was minor and covered under warranty. A couple years later, we had some issue with it and I can't remember the initial concern at this time, but the repairman determined some one accidentally turned the temperature on the fridge or freezer way to low (likely someone just hitting random buttons not knowing how to work the dispenser screen and accidentally adjusted it down too low. As a result, we have had issues since with our internal lights (some of them, not all) and the meat/veggie drawer light display, and the dispenser screen. I will describe the issue with each. At the time, the repairman suspected that the control boards for each of those connections were killed when the internal temp was too low for too long. We never got it replaced or addressed because he warned us it would be rather pricey. And several years later after dealing with an annoyingly dark fridge/freezer and messed up screen displays, I wanted to look into how to repair it (myself, if possible).

1. Interior lights: From my research so far, I understand the LED lights are all on an old single circuit type set up (like old christmas lights). I understand the side lights are on their own circuit, and the ceiling fridge and one freezer light is on another. Weirdly, with our situation, the two lights by the ice maker are working while the 3 lights by the filter, the freezer, and the 4 side lights are all out completely. We have temporarily installed some rechargeable motion activated lights that will illuminate the fridge when it is opened and then turn off with no detection of motion, so basically when the fridge is closed. It has got us by, but it is rather dim in the fridge in certain areas and it is annoying to recharge the lights on a weekly basis.

2. Meat/Veggie drawer display: Just completely gone. Nothing.

3. Dispense display. The lights along the bottom where the buttons that show what each button's functions are are all normal, but the far left ice/water button and word/number lights on the center display are jacked up (the part where you would look for the numbers during diagnosistics). They image is very dim in certain areas, so sometimes you can't tell what it says. I have figured it out now with just repeated practice knowing what the display looks like on the screen, but man is it a headache and looks bad.

I have been researching these issues all morning to see where I could start. I have found info on parts for the LED control box, the control board, the dispense control board, and the interior refrigerator control board. Each of these parts individually are a pretty hefty price, so combined to do all of them would be >$500 just for parts. What would be wonderful is if there is just one thing that I can replace that might fix most or all of the problems in one shot. Is this possible, or do you think I am going to have to piece my way through this and try each one individually to see what works? The dispenser screen is the least of my worries and the most minor. And even the refrigerator draw control display is not that bothersome because we didn't really use it that much anyway. But the interior lights thing is pretty annoying and necessary. Thoughts on where to start? Or if there is one big sha-bang fix for all of them?

**************************

Now, for our other issue. A few weeks ago we had a really loud whirling/grinding noise coming from the freezer. With some googling, you tubing, and some exploring hands on, we discovered there was ice build up in the back of the freezer behind the back panel and the fan blades were contacting the ice. We defrosted the back of the freezer and now the fan moves freely and quietly and freezer works normal.

Ever since we fixed that issue, our ice maker has stopped or reduced in dropping ice into the ice bin. Its never empty, and we still dispense ice in a cup a couple times a day, but there is a very little bit in there at all times (like less than 20 cubes at a time). I tried turning on the fast ice function with no result. I then tried to run through the diagnostics to see what the issue was (of course, challenged by the display issues noted above, so I am not 100% confident in what I was interpreting). Initially the issues I was seeing was at E5 error code on test 56, a "harvesting not competed" code on test 57, and "temperature warmer than harvest temperature" code for test 58. I am not even sure what these mean or how they relate to our issue because there is no indication in the tech sheet on whether those are defective codes or what is considered normal for those readings.

The code for the ice bin sensor test 15 came back correct. All of the ice maker and door motor, fill test, and water dispensing tests all came back what appears to be normal if I was reading it correctly. I noted that E5 was related to the thermistor, but the test 32 related to the thermistor came back functional. After a little more researching, I found a recommendation to reset the fridge by unplugging it. Since that was easy, I did it. When I went back into diagnostics, the E5 code was gone and now displaying E0 (no errors). All the other tests came back the same as before. When I checked the next morning, there were about 6-7 new ice cubes in the bin, but still less than 25 total in the whole thing. I am absolutely baffled at this point. Would our best bet be just to replace the whole ice maker assembly and hope that fixes the issue, or is there something else I am missing or haven't tried? I am tempted to just say screw it and go invest in one of those amazing Sonic ice makers! Haha

I appreciate anyone's insight or assistance to help me get even one thing heading in the right direction with these issues. Please and thank you so much!

I have attached images of the internal LED lights for fridge and freezer, drawer display, my temporary light rig up, dispenser display screen (circled the faded display - you can see the other 5 lights on the bottom are very bold, the two circled are dimmer), and a video of the diagnostic code screen to show the lighting issues.
 

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I'm attaching your tech. data sheet below.

On your model usually when the FREEZER LED light so out, it takes out the top 3 on the right side and the rest in series.

Here's the freezer LED module for your model: W11130208

You can see this thread here:
Its basically the same as your model. Look at post #10.

The Top left 2 LED's are in series, that's why they are working.

The next series are the 2 LED's on the left side wall and the 2 LED's on the right side wall in the refrigerator section.

The final series is the Freezer LED and the 3 right side Top ones in the refrigerator section.

Here's the parts diagram for the freezer section:
#3 is the LED module, it shows it on the freezer ceiling.

You will definitely need the freezer side LED module and that will make the 3 right side Top ones in the refrigerator section work again.

If you want to verify that, just remove the freezer LED module and use a multimeter on DC volts and see if you get 14 volts DC at the electrical connector to the freezer module, while the freezer door is open.

You just use a putty knife to pry the LED modules out.

Jake
 

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Thank you for the info. Hoping that fixes the issue! I don't have a way to check the DC volts. Is it possible to remove the working lights on the top left and plug it into the freezer connector to see if it resolves the issue before committing financially to the part?

Did you have any thoughts on the freezer issue with it not producing ice? The lights are a minor issue compared to the ice maker.
 
Is it possible to remove the working lights on the top left and plug it into the freezer connector to see if it resolves the issue before committing financially to the part?
You bet you can! Or just make a jumper wire if you have some old wire laying around in your garage or house, then just cut some off, and take off the insulation on both ends about a half inch.

I use a wire stripping tool: Wire Stripper

Did you have any thoughts on the freezer issue with it not producing ice? The lights are a minor issue compared to the ice maker.
Yup, was going to get to that next.:)

Jake
 
Your welcome!

Jake
 
Here is what our ice machine has produced between Thursday and Sunday (a little over 3 days). This bin used to get 3/4 full within a day
 

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The temperature should be at 10 degrees or lower to make ice consistently, put a freezer thermometer in the ice maker compartment and tell us what it reads in 2 hours.

Is your ice maker fan running continuously, do you hear/feel it running all the time?

Here's the ice maker for your model:
WPW10764668 Ice Maker Assy-Lp


Jake
 
The deli display has been out for a few years and the ice maker continued to work after that time, so not sure if that is related at this point. And honestly, I never hear anything coming from the ice maker anymore. I used to hear when the water would dispense or when it would dispense the cubes into the bin, but now I hear nothing. But I know it dispense cubes at some point, because we are getting a little ice production, it is just insufficient. I do not have a freezer thermometer so would need to look into that.
 
So, I switched out the working fridge light in the ice maker area and connected it to the freezer light plug and it fixed all the lights in the remainder of the fridge, so looks like I need to go ahead and purchase the light module. Unfortunately, when prying the freezer light out, it cracked the freezer ceiling right directly in front of the opening where the module goes. Because it was cracked, it was giving a little when I tried to pop the light module back into the opening and would not sit flush with the ceiling anymore. I tried gently pounding it in with the base on my hand but it would not budge into the spot very tightly. Not sure if this will cause any issues down the road with moisture under the light or inside the freezer. Should I seal up that crack with something or should it be ok as is?
 

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So I dismantled the deli display and found that there actually was a bunch of sticky brown liquid spilled on the interface board underneath the panel and the compartment underneath the interface board (I had already cleaned up part of the bottom compartment prior to posting pic, so it was about 3x what is in the pic). I cleaned up the top panel and the bottom compartment. Is there a way to just purchase on interface board that controls the electronics without buying the whole panel and unit? And I assume that it is not possible to just "clean up" the board and get it working again since the liquid has already fried the electronic components? Looking to see if I can get this fixed as cheap as possible and $200 for the deli display is not cheap in my opinion.
 

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So, I switched out the working fridge light in the ice maker area and connected it to the freezer light plug and it fixed all the lights in the remainder of the fridge, so looks like I need to go ahead and purchase the light module. Unfortunately, when prying the freezer light out, it cracked the freezer ceiling right directly in front of the opening where the module goes. Because it was cracked, it was giving a little when I tried to pop the light module back into the opening and would not sit flush with the ceiling anymore. I tried gently pounding it in with the base on my hand but it would not budge into the spot very tightly. Not sure if this will cause any issues down the road with moisture under the light or inside the freezer. Should I seal up that crack with something or should it be ok as is?
Excellent, glad to hear that you found it was the LED light module.(y)

Use a gel type super glue to fill the crack or epoxy will all work OR, a small bead of 100% clear or white silicone will work just fine.

So I dismantled the deli display and found that there actually was a bunch of sticky brown liquid spilled on the interface board underneath the panel and the compartment underneath the interface board (I had already cleaned up part of the bottom compartment prior to posting pic, so it was about 3x what is in the pic). I cleaned up the top panel and the bottom compartment. Is there a way to just purchase on interface board that controls the electronics without buying the whole panel and unit? And I assume that it is not possible to just "clean up" the board and get it working again since the liquid has already fried the electronic components? Looking to see if I can get this fixed as cheap as possible and $200 for the deli display is not cheap in my opinion.
No, the only way is to just order a new one or leave it disconnected.

Jake
 
The deli display has been disconnected for almost 24 hours and have not seen any change in the ice production.
 
The temperature should be at 10 degrees or lower to make ice consistently, put a freezer thermometer in the ice maker compartment and tell us what it reads in 2 hours.
Did you take the temperature?

Jake
 
I ordered one since I do not keep a freezer thermometer on hand and local stores didn’t have any in stock. It is supposed to arrive today, so I will pop it in there. Only question is, how do I get it in far enough to get an accurate reading because it is a very small space and no where to insert it into the compartment far enough? Do I have to dismantle the whole ice maker area to put it in there.
 
I can only fit the thermometer in the outer part of the ice maker assembly where the ice is pushed out of the little trap door without taking the entire ceiling apart to get it inside the unit. Unfortunately, I am afraid that is not getting the most accurate reading as it is near the outside of the assembly and likely influenced by the warmer refrigerator air. I have checked on it a few times and the lowest reading I am getting is about 17-18 degrees, but again, not sure if the placement near the outer segment of the ice maker is impacting readings. If it requires disassembly of the ceiling and ice maker to get it in the center of the ice maker, it will have to wait until the weekend when i have time to take it apart.
 
Just put the thermometer as close to the ice maker as possible.

Jake
 
When I went to place the thermometer in the icemaker compartment door yesterday afternoon, I noticed there was ice actually made and sitting in the harvester so I waited a little bit to see if it would push it out and it took maybe 15 to 20 minutes before it dropped into the ice bin. So clearly it is producing some ice, just not very much.

And as I said in my previous post, the coldest temperature reading I could get was 18°. There were a few times that the thermometer read above 20, and one time it was above 40, but I’m not sure if that was due to the refrigerator being opened and closed several times as my family was using the refrigerator.

So if the Icemaker is not getting too the 10° mark or it is fluctuating up-and-down throughout the day, what exactly does that mean?
 
So if the Icemaker is not getting too the 10° mark or it is fluctuating up-and-down throughout the day, what exactly does that mean?
It means you may have a problem in the ice box fan motor or IB thermistor.

Service Test - 36 Ice Box Fan
--->Check for fan operation. Control Ice Box Fan using SW3. Display the status on Temp Display. (01 = ON, 02 = OFF). Verify air flow from the IB fan

Service Test - 37 Ice Box Thermistor
--->The board will check the resistance value of the thermistor and display the results on the Temp Display (01 = Pass, 02 = Open, 03 = Short)

Jake
 
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