Whirlpool WRS571CIDM01 ice maker trouble

Brokenfridge

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Model Number
WRS571CIDM01
Brand
Whirlpool
Age
1-5 years
My fridge- Whirlpool model #WRS571CIDM01 has been having trouble with the wiring to the ice maker. The ice maker stopped working a few months ago- found a broken yellow wire where the freezer bottom door hinge is. After fixing it, the ice maker went back to working. The repaired wire then rebroke a month later, fixed it again and the ice maker started working again. The ice maker stopped working again a few weeks ago- I replaced the broken wire again just in case it was the culprit but it still hasn’t regained function. I suspect there’s another broken wire in the door hinge that I can’t easily visualize.
People in previous posts have discussed testing the voltage on the main control panel to figure out if any wires are broken- would someone be able to explain how to go about that?

Thanks in advance.
 

rickgburton

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R-displayswitch numbers.jpg

Unit must not be in Lockout

Press SW1 and SW2 simultaneously for 3 seconds.

Release both buttons when you hear the CHIME indicator.

The display will show 01 to indicate the control is in Test 1 of the diagnostics routine.

Each test must be manually advanced. Press SW5 to move to the next test in the sequence. Press SW4 to back up in the sequence to the previous test.

To exit Service Diagnostics: Press SW1 and SW2 simultaneously for 3 seconds, disconnect the product from power or wait 20 minutes.

Following the exit of the diagnostic mode, the controls will then resume normal operation.

Each test is displayed in the two digits of the dispenser user interface display.

The test results are displayed in the two digits on dispenser user interface display 2 seconds after the test number is displayed.

An amber order filter light will be shown to designate that the test number is being displayed

A red replace filter light will be shown to designate that the status of the test is being displayed.

Run the following test:

Test #44 - Sanko Ice Maker Harvesting Test

Before starting a harvest cycle access the main control board and locate connector P7.

Press SW3 to start a harvest cycle (make sure the ice bucket is empty). The system should not come out of this test until the harvest cycle is complete.

Digit 1:
1
= Harvest cycle is on
2= harvest cycle is off

Digit 2:
Blank= until it gets a valid reading
1= Ice bucket full detected
2= Ice bucket not full
3= Switch or Motor faulty

When the harvest cycle starts you can check for 14 VDC across P7-3 to P7-4 and P7-5 to P7-6
 
Last edited:

ColoradoBic

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Nov 9, 2019
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3
Location
Florida
Broken wires seem common on models similar to yours: Check out this thread:
 

Brokenfridge

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Location
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Thanks! What I’m trying to figure out is how exactly to test the voltage on the receiving board- ex: test P-7, etc. Everyone mentions testing the voltage I’m just not sure how to do it
 

Brokenfridge

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Messages
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Thanks! That was really helpful! I got the digit 2/3 for switch or motor faulty- which I think could still be caused by a broken wire (?). I went to check the voltage for p7-3 and p7-5 and realized that the multimeter I have the test leads don’t fit into those tiny holes on the housing connector. Does anyone have any recommendations for some leads that are small enough to fit into a small housing connector? My local ace and Lowe’s didn’t.
 

rickgburton

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I don't why I didn't think of this earlier but the lower freezer door hinge is a real good place to look for wire damage
refrigerator door wires broken.jpg
refrigerator door wires.jpg
refrigerator door hinge wires.jpg
 

Brokenfridge

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Thanks! I’ve had wire damage previously in the door hinge and waited it, but I suspect there’s a wire break that I can’t find (the ice maker was working and then stopped without an obvious reason). I haven’t taken the wire harness out of the door yet but there aren’t any obvious wire breaks (it had an obvious wire break last time it stopped working) I’ll try out the safety pin idea this weekend!
 

Brokenfridge

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So when I’m trying to test the 14 vdc for p7-3 to p7-4 are people testing the voltage on a point on the control board with the wire connector plugged into the control panel or are people testing the voltage with the connector unplugged?
 

rickgburton

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P7-3 to P7-4 is output voltage to the ice maker switch. P7-5 to P7-6 is output voltage to the ice maker motor. Either go in the back of the connector or if you disconnect the connector take the measurements on the board.
 

Brokenfridge

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P7-3 to P7-4 is output voltage to the ice maker switch. P7-5 to P7-6 is output voltage to the ice maker motor. Either go in the back of the connector or if you disconnect the connector take the measurements on the board.
Ok! And we’re talking about the main control board on the back of the fridge, correct?
 

Brokenfridge

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Ok! Almost fixed. So I ran continuity tests on the wires to the ice maker and found that the red and brown wires were not continuous. Upon further inspection- they had sneaky breaks in the wires without a break in the insulation.
All was working well until today the ice maker seemed to continuously put out water into the ice machine, causing it to overfill and puddle onto the floor. The water was overfilling where the ice machine pours the water into the ice cube tray, if that make sense. Any ideas?
 

rickgburton

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Brokenfridge

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Ok. I’ll rephrase. So everything worked well for about 48 hours after the broken wire. Lots of ice cycles completed, no issues. Came home to a large puddle on the floor- water was dripping out of the ice dispenser on the front of the door and water was dripping from inside the door. The ice container was full of frozen ice cubes and also frozen water. (Everything in the freezer was still frozen, the door hadn’t been left open, etc). While I was trying to figure out what was going on, I noticed that fill tube(?) was putting water into the ice tray, even though the ice tray was full of ice already. So the water was then overflowing from the ice tray into the ice container housing, the ice container and through the ice dispenser.
I hope that’s a better description. I currently have the ice machine flipped to “off” via the switch inside the door and all is well. I have not turned it back on since I noticed the overflowing water.
This could be a separate problem all together- I can start a new thread if requested.
 

rickgburton

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rickgburton

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The ice maker is stuck in a harvest cycle so it goes through the harvest cycle then a fill cycle then back into a harvest cycle without taking the time to freeze the water. It dumps the water out of the tray into the ice bucket continues through the harvest cycle then into a fill cycle and repeats again. Jake and I have both seen this happen before.
 
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