FIXED Whirlpool WRX988SIBM01 - Solving the monthly defrost ritual

[Jake]

Service Test - 6: Defrost Heater/Bi-metal - "bi-metal open"
NOTE: If bi-metal is open, it will need to be bypassed for heater to operate.

That means the Bi-Metal has to be frosty for it to CLOSE, which means continuity, and it will turn the defrost heater on.

OR if its not frosty:
To bypass it: a bent paper clip will work, just plug it into where the orange and brown wires connector pin go in the big plastic connector block where the main wire harness connects(LOOK AT THE PHOTO BELOW). I circled the defrost thermostat on the right side in BLACK. I circled the big plastic connector block in RED on the left side.

Just make sure you unplug the refrigerator first before putting that paper clip jumper wire in, then plug the refrigerator in and do TEST 6 and see if the defrost heater comes on, the defrost heater is underneath the evaporator coil, you should feel that get hot in TEST 6. Unplug the refrigerator after you are done with TEST 6, then remove the paper clip jumper.

The Control board for your model is in stock here: W10807590

Jake

 

[tvstrategies]

Thank you. The frost completely encased the connectors, so it's defrosting now. Once it's defrosted, I'll insert the paper clip jumper into the molex connector to bridge between orange and brown wires.

You circled both connectors, left and right of the fridge's freezer fan - so it doesn't matter which connector I bridge? Also, you didn't say whether to unplug the connector before testing, so I'll leave it in place, plugged in.

Next, what does the result mean? If the defrost heater gets hot, does that mean I need to replace the control board?

Or, if the bi-metal does not get hot, then what? Does that mean the bi-metal has failed (again) and I need a new bi-metal (and maybe not need to replace the control board after all)?

Thank you

 

[Jake]

The left one I circled is where you jump the brown and orange wires with the paper clip FROM the defrost thermostat I circled on the right.

Yes, leave the big plastic connector plugged in so it gets power to the heating element. Well you can actually unsnap it first to if you need more room to put the paper clip in the brown and orange wires, then plug it back in.

Look at post #9 here:

FIXED - WRF736SDAM13 Whirlpool Refrigerator - Ice Maker not making ice

Ice making was intermittent and now it is gone. It seems I have a problem with Bad Thermistor, can you suggest action/part that I need to take to verify/fix the problem? I ran the testing prescribed above and my results are as follows: Service Test - 15 Ice Level Sensor • Displays the Ice Bin...

www.applianceblog.com

Todd shows you where the paper clip goes.

Yes, if the defrost heated comes on, you will need to order the control board, as that is the problem.

The Control board for your model is in stock here: W10807590

Jake

 

[tvstrategies]

Hi Jake, I think I have confirmed this to be the control board. In case it matters, there was no longer any frost anywhere in the evaporator compartment.

Here's what I did:

1) Unplugged the fridge and jumpered between the brown and orange conductors as instructed (thanks for the example from your other customer). Plugged the fridge back in, ran Test #6, which came up '02' (open). Unplugged fridge again, removed jumper. Plugged back in, Test #6 still '02' (open).

2) Unplugged fridge again and disconnected the two ends of the heater/bi-metal (the white plastic connector clips at each end) so the bi-metal was not electrically connected to the fridge itself.( *** below) Inserted multimeter probes into the bi-metal loop's connectors and there was continuity - the meter fluctuated around 35-40 (not 1).

Please confirm whether I understood this correctly: because there is continuity, the heater/bi-metal has not failed, which confirms that it's the control board. In the diagram you sent to me, where is the control board located physically - how do I access it and remove it? Do you have a digital pic? W10807590

*** (Note/question - Because I did not disassemble or dismount the evaporator assembly that the heater bi-metal wraps around - would that have interfered with the test because the evaporator itself completed the circuit?)

Thank you

 

[Jake]

Yes, order that new main control board and that should fix it.

*** (Note/question - Because I did not disassemble or dismount the evaporator assembly that the heater bi-metal wraps around - would that have interfered with the test because the evaporator itself completed the circuit?)

No.

Watch this video below, it gives you the general idea of how to replace the main control board:

KitchenAid 5 Door Refrigerator Main Control Board Replacement WPW | Repair Clinic

This video provides step-by-step repair instructions for replacing the main control board on a KitchenAid 5 Door Refrigerator (Model KRMF706ESS01). Learn more from the experts at Repair Clinic.

www.anrdoezrs.net

Make sure you unplug the refrigerator before replacing it.

Jake

 

[tvstrategies]

Thanks! Will buy the board on Monday! - fingers crossed this finally resolves this saga; can't imagine what else it could be at this point!

 

[Jake]

It will, no worries.

Jake

 

[tvstrategies]

Hi Jake, It just occurred to me that I never thanked you for your advice on the Control Board. I installed it before Thanksgiving and so far so good. Now it's been nearly a month. I'm almost (almost) tempted to dismantle the freezer drawer to see whether ice has begun to form again, but I will not tempt fate!! Thanks again.

 

[Jake]

Excellent, glad to hear the new control board fixed it.

Thanks for the update!

Jake