Whirlpool WSF26C3EXW01 ice maker stopped working but water dispenser still works fine

[toolman60]

Model Number

WSF26C3EXW01

Brand

Whirlpool

Age

6-10 years

Hello,

Anyone have a water line diagram for the whirlpool WSF26C3EXW01. My ice maker stopped working but water dispenser still works fine.

If I can get that fixed my next issue is the fridge side is to cold and starts to freeze things at times and other times it works just fine.

Thanks
Tim

 

[Jake]

Hi Tim, You have a primary and dual water inlet valve, since the water dispenser is working that indicates the primary water inlet valve is good. The dual one sends water to the water dispenser and to the ice maker.

Both of these water inlet valves are in the back of your refrigerator. The dual one should be located behind the single one, it will have a small plastic cover over it that is held on by 1 screw, just remove that screw to get that cover off the dual one.

Here's the OEM single(primary) water inlet valve for your model:
WPW10238100 Valve


Here's the OEM dual(secondary) water inlet valve for your model:
Water Inlet Valve WPW10341320


BUT FIRST--->Check your wire harness under the freezer door and see if you have any cut wires preventing 120 volts going to the ice maker side(smaller diameter hose) of your dual water water inlet valve.

Another member was having a similar problem here: FIXED: GSF26C4EXY02 Whirlpool Gold Ice Maker Problem

Look at his post #6 he found frayed and broken wires underneath the freezer door, I'd remove your kickplate and check for that first.

Here's another one with the same thing about the frayed and broken wires: FIXED: 106.51173310 Kenmore elite ice maker not working - no led light

Here's another: FIXED: Whirlpool WSF26C2EXF01 Door Icemaker Not Working

ALSO, remove the black loom from the wire harness directly under the freezer door, I've seen wires ARE broken/frayed there too.

 

[toolman60]

Hi Jake,

Thank you for reply. I will do some checking on the wires this weekend. I did unplug the unit and plug it back in an got the Red LED on my emitter board for a few minutes but still not making ice this morning.
I ran the diagnostic test from front user panel and it tells me ice maker valve water valve off 00 but when I activate water dispenser I get 01 on my display in step #25

 

[Jake]

Yes, do check for broken wires first. I'm attaching your tech data sheet below.

TEST 25:

DIGIT 1 should show for the ice maker valve ON.

Also with your volt meter you can check for 120 volts at connector 3 Pin 2 to connector 1 Pin 2 in TEST 25.

 

[toolman60]

Hello Jake,

Reading the wiring diagram you uploaded. The bK/wh wire and gn/yl should be my 120v feed to the IM and should have 120v on it at all times correct. I do not have 120v at the connector under the freezer door coming from my control board. It is intermittent. I need to get some help so I can now pull out the fridge from wall to get to the control board. The 120v is coming and going when I check it at the Ice Maker test point's L & N, so I went to the freezer door connections under the fridge as my second test point at the connectors and I do not have 120v at the molex connector coming from main board, so now I will test points on the board and see if board has the 120v between P1 1 an P 3 3 just need help pulling unit from wall to gain access.

 

[Jake]

Yes, 120 volts AC output to ice maker at all times when the ice maker is ON.

I do not have 120v at the connector under the freezer door coming from my control board. It is intermittent.

DID you check for broken or frayed wires under your freezer door underneath the BLACK wire harness LOOM?

The 120v is coming and going when I check it at the Ice Maker test point's L & N, so I went to the freezer door connections under the fridge as my second test point at the connectors and I do not have 120v at the molex connector coming from main board, so now I will test points on the board and see if board has the 120v between P1 1 an P 3 3 just need help pulling unit from wall to gain access.

Ok, let us know what you find.

Here's the control board for your model, if needed:
Refrigerator Control Board W11088499

 

[toolman60]

I have found when I Do Not Have 120v at test point L&N on Ice Maker I also DO Not have 120v at the connector from control board to front of fridge under the freezer door behind vent panel. So tomorrow will have help to pull it from wall to check at the control board.
So with the Icemaker switch ON that is on the Emitter board there should be 120v from the control board to the Ice make at all times, or just when ice maker is calling to make ice.

I do not see any broken wires under the wire loom at bottom of door. Well they may be broken internally but not the outer insulation. That is why I checked the 4 pin connector that the door harness plugs into. I do not have 120v on that connector BK/WH wire that comes from P3 3.

 

[Jake]

So with the Icemaker switch ON that is on the Emitter board there should be 120v from the control board to the Ice make at all times, or just when ice maker is calling to make ice.

On at all times.

I'm attaching your ice maker tech sheet below too.
Do what it says here too:

 

[toolman60]

My IM passes the process in step 15.


My problem is I do not have a constant 120v on this connector. I can unplug the unit from wall and plug it back in and I have 120v there and will have it on test point L & N for 1 cycle of the Ice Maker after that the 120 is gone.

That connector panel is here on schematic

The BK/WH wire should be the 120V from the control board at P3-3. TN is the 120V to water valve. The WH switches to WH/BR at connector then goes thru Ice Maker Neutral switch onto EVAP fan and defrost heater back to the control board P1-2.
I am looking at it as P3-3 should be 120v 24/7 whenever the unit is plugged into the wall feeding the Ice Maker 24/7 120v on test point L & N.

 

[toolman60]

I checked between P3-3 and P1-2 on control board it has 120v.

 

[Jake]

Ok, you have a very unusual problem I've not seen before, it would be better to have a local Whirlpool tech. come out to see what's going on.

I have no clue why this is happening without being there with you, sorry.

 

[toolman60]

Jake from my point of view. With having power at control board points P1-2 and P3-3 120v and not having it at connector behind kick panel under the freezer door I am guessing a broken wire or loose connection somewhere in between the inner and outer wall panels. No repair man will be able to fix that. I may try and feed the IM from another 120v source just to see if it will run thru a few cycles and make ice.

 

[Jake]

I am guessing a broken wire or loose connection somewhere in between the inner and outer wall panels. No repair man will be able to fix that. I may try and feed the IM from another 120v source just to see if it will run thru a few cycles and make ice.

Yes, I agree.

 

[toolman60]

Jake,

Can you tell me what the white thing is under the IM mold that is on the BK/WH wire. I am still on the hunt for my problem.

I have monitored the 120v from the control board to the connector under kick panel as long as I do not have it connected to the harness running in the freezer door I never loose the voltage.

I have now disconnected the IM harness at top inside freezer compartment to see if the voltage drops out after a period of time. It looks like when ever the IM is plugged into harness I loose my 120v within 1/2 hour.

 

[toolman60]

Jake, I think I have it narrowed down. Whenever the Ice Maker is plugged into harness after about 5-7 minutes the voltage drops out. I unplug the IM from harness and about 1/2 hour the voltage comes back. I figure there is something in the IM module board pulling to much current and opening the thermal fuse.

 

[Jake]

That white part is the in-line thermal fuse, if it was bad you would never get 120 volts at the ice maker, its not a resettable thermal fuse, When it blows out its out for good.

 

[toolman60]

Ok thats what I wanted to know. I think my IM motor is bad. When checking it I am getting 72.8 ohms and it should be between 4400-8800 according to spec sheets.

 

[Jake]

Ok, good find!

They don't sell the ice maker motor separately, it only comes with the ice maker module assembly.

Here's the ice maker module for your model:
8201515 Icemaker Motor Module


There is a "how to" video in the ice maker module part link.

 

[toolman60]

Well still fighting the IM issue. The Fridge not worth a control board just to make ice to me.

Found the issue with fridge side being to cold. The damper door hinge tab was broken and damper not closing all the way at times it would bind and stay open about a 1/4 inch. So new damper on the way to fix that problem.

Now need to figure out why my water valve is leaking at the quick connect fitting. Pulled unit out from wall to test at board and also cleaned the coils now a small drip on water valve. Should have told wife just go buy some old school ice trays.

 

[Jake]

Found the issue with fridge side being to cold. The damper door hinge tab was broken and damper not closing all the way at times it would bind and stay open about a 1/4 inch. So new damper on the way to fix that problem.

Good find!

Here's the damper(diffuser) for your model, in case others need it too:
W11177624 Diffuser

Now need to figure out why my water valve is leaking at the quick connect fitting.

It just needs to be tightened more.