FIXED WM2801HLA LG Washer - drum light on - does nothing

johnsweaver

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Model Number
WM2801HLA
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Heya,

Have a roughly 2 year old LG WASHER.

My wife ran a load earlier today then asked my why the drum light wasn't turning off. I walk over and the machine does nothing. Door open, door closed, light stays on. Other dials and buttons non-operational.

My guess is the door switch is telling the machine that the door is open and not letting it do anything else.

Just posting here for any additional advice or items to check before trying to replace that $60 part.

Thanks for any input. Let me know if you have questions.

Regards,

John
 
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jeff1

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johnsweaver

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No codes at all. Drum light just stays on and buttons don't do anything.

Is there any way to test the switch or jump between pins on the harness to verify it's the problem?
 

johnsweaver

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Well I found an old wiring diagram for a slightly different washer that showed the red and black wires on the harness as the switch. I jumped them and the light went off.

Seems like a fairly good diagnosis.
 

jeff1

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Sounds good so far :)

jeff.
 

wildimaginations

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Try this. Go to the circuit breaker and turn off the power for the washer. Then turn it on and see if you can power up the controls. Tell me if that works.
 

johnsweaver

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Well I did replace the switch and the same problem remained.

Similar to suggested above, I unplugged the machine. That seems to reset it for one load.Then it's back to the unresponsive panel with the tub light on.So at least we can wash clothes this weekend.
suggestions now?
 

wildimaginations

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I had the exact same situation for another customer and with some help from LG, we replaced the PCB, display board and the power filter to try and resolve the problem. Nothing worked. That was over a year ago. LG tech support wanted to have the machine at their repair facility to see what's going on but the higher ups in LG customer service didn't want to buy the customer a new machine since it was way out of warranty. So the customer has to keep unplugging the unit to reset the controls so she can use the washer. Strange but once the machine finishes it's cycle, the controls will still work for at least 10 minutes before the display board freezes up.

Now that the same situation has come up on your machine, I'm suggesting this. Replace the wire harness that connects the display board to the PCB. That part number is 6850ER2002N. I suspect that there is a short in the wire harness since it uses tiny wires. Let me know if that resolves the issue. I'm really curious!!!
 

jeff1

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So the customer has to keep unplugging the unit to reset the controls so she can use the washer. Strange but once the machine finishes it's cycle, the controls will still work for at least 10 minutes before the display board freezes up.
Interesting!
Any thoughts as to any high or low voltage issues giving this problem?

jeff.
 

johnsweaver

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Awesome that I seem to have a problem that even LG can't diagnose. :p

Do you have any sketches or links to manuals on the location of that harness and the work involved with replacing that harness? I can't seem to find anything on that.

On another note, the spin cycle is getting excessively loud. Sounds very much like a bearing is going out. Would this be covered in the 10 year motor warranty that is indicated with the sticker on the unit?

Thanks so far guys, I do appreciate the help.

John
 

wildimaginations

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Awesome that I seem to have a problem that even LG can't diagnose. :p

Do you have any sketches or links to manuals on the location of that harness and the work involved with replacing that harness? I can't seem to find anything on that.

On another note, the spin cycle is getting excessively loud. Sounds very much like a bearing is going out. Would this be covered in the 10 year motor warranty that is indicated with the sticker on the unit?

Thanks so far guys, I do appreciate the help.

John
The harness simply connects between the display board just behind the front panel and the control board in the rear. It's not that difficult to replace.


The warranty will not cover the bearing problem, only the motor. If the noise is getting louder as the drum spins faster, you may want to consider either replacing the bearing assembly yourself or replacing the whole washer unit. It is a big job.
 

johnsweaver

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When you say the 'whole washer unit', do you mean some sort of assembly inside the machine, or the whole machine? I hate to think that I need to replace a 2 year old washer...but my confidence in appliances longevity is waning as I get older.

And when you say 'big job', what would an approximate repair cost be for say you to come and repair it?

I'm pretty handy, but short on time.
 

johnsweaver

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Update - now the electrical problem appears to be intermittent. It seems to be working normally now. Not sure what's going on.

There is also quite a bit of play between the inner and outer tubs. After laundry is done tonight i'll probably tear into this thing and see what's up.
 

wildimaginations

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I have done several bearing/tub assembly replacement jobs. It takes about 2 hours. About $700.

Whole washer unit replacement, get a new washer.
 

johnsweaver

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Well we got all the laundry done and I got a hair and decided to tear into this pig for the bearing and harness replacement. I've got it almost completely disassembled. However, I'm having a bit of an issue removing the inner tub from the back of the outer tub. Every video I've seen seems to show them just neatly sliding apart but this one feels like a press fit. Am I missing something? Should I just beat on the end of the shaft with a mallet?

Right now I've got it sitting with some penetrating oil in case there's some corrosion in there. Hoping that will do some work overnight.

Anyway, from what I can see so far from the outside, there is way too much play in the bearings. When I move the assembly around I can see black 'water' splash out from the back of the outside bearing. I'm guessing the seal failed and ate the bearings. It doesn't appear that the thing has been spraying any water...probably due to the fact that it's rarely (if ever) submerged. Once I get it apart I'll re-assess and get parts as needed. I'll be back for advice on that.

Again, any input on how to get the inner tub separated from the rear half of the outside tub would be appreciated.

John
 

wildimaginations

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To remove the jammed inner drum from the outer tub, raise the entire assembly up in the air about 12" to 18" with the shaft end facing down towards the ground and drop it. This will free the outer tub from the inner drum.

To make life easier, order the entire drum assembly since it's covered under the parts warranty. That part should include the spider assembly along with the drum. AJQ54138201

Order the rear half of the tub assembly. It should come with the bearings already pressed in and new shocks. 3045ER0048E

Also order the rubber seal that goes between the two tub assemblies. 4036ER4001B

Hope this helps.
 

johnsweaver

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Update:

I couldn't stomach the cost of the replacing the entire drum and rear half of the tub. So I ordered the following parts:
- Both bearings. Got sealed bearings for each.
- Shaft seal.
- Tub seal.
- The harness (6850ER2002N) previously mentioned.

All the parts were here by yesterday and I was able to get it put back together today.

Left the top and rear covers off and put it in place so I could inspect during operation.

The bearing and seal replacement job appears to be a success. The old bearings were used up and the old shaft seal was a mess. I found part of it in the large item filter on the bottom left of the machine. No leaks to this point. I'll keep looking for them.

During this process I noticed one more future problem. The rotor (4413ER1003A) appears to be deteriorating where the teeth engage the spider shaft. Looks like they are just shearing off. Some reading tells me this isn't a terribly uncommon problem and that the new rotors have metal teeth over the plastic. Can anyone confirm that?

Unfortunately, the harness replacement didn't solve the frozen controls. Unplugging it still puts it back to working order. What's weird is that when I push the power button I hear a faint 'click' that seems to be coming from the rear control board. Not sure what this issue could be...but I'd be happy to take any advice or suggestions. It almost sounds like some sort of power supply issue...but I don't even know how power distribution works in these machines. I'm probably not going to throw any expensive parts at this problem if I can solve it with a switched power strip.

One additional issue is that now the LED tub light doesn't work at all. Anyone know the voltage pushing that thing so I can test it? I don't think I messed up any connections on the new harness so I'm wondering if the LED itself is broke. It didn't appear to be in the best of shape. Although thinking about it there's another problem that may be related. There is no longer any sound on the machine. Like the beeping sounds when pushing buttons and the end of cycle tune...no longer there.

That's where I'm at.

Any input is appreciated.

John
 
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