• ** REMEMBER! **The microwave can still shock you even unplugged!!

    ALWAYS discharge the high-voltage capacitor first if you even think your hands will come close to any HIGH VOLTAGE components.

    Jeff mentions this: Anything in the high voltage ( magnetron, capacitor, diode, wires to and from ):
    ...Use a metal ( not the shiny chrome type ) screw driver with a insulated handle to short across ( touch both at the same time ) the terminals of the high voltage capacitor to discharge it.

    From Jeff's site: http://www.applianceaid.com/component-testing.php

    Jake
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FIXED WMH31017AS2 Whirlpool microwave won't start and displays door error

acemaxx

Premium Member
Joined
Oct 9, 2016
Messages
2
Location
New York
Model Number
WMH31017AS2
Brand
Whirlpool
Age
1-5 years
Hello,

I have an over the range Whirlpool microwave, model WMH31017AS2. It is only two years old, but when I open the door the light no longer comes on and after I enter the cook time and press start it beeps a couple times quickly and displays "Door". I understand from some of the other threads here that one of the fuses might be blown. Does anyone have the service manual for this model microwave that shows the fuse locations?

Also, I have a continuity detector, so I can test the fuses. If the microwave is unplugged, is it safe to simply pop out the fuse to test it?

Thank you for any help.

Update: I found some Youtube videos on microwave repair that used a Whirlpool over the range that looks exactly like mine. From what I gathered, if a fuse has blown, something else is wrong. I believe I need to test the door switches first, if one is bad, it could have blown the fuse that's located above the control panel, so I should check that too. Then order a replacement door switch and fuse.

It seems simple enough to access these parts. The only step that makes me nervous is discharging the capacitor that's located above the control panel. I'll have to get an insulated screwdriver for this. Does anyone have any other tips or recommendations for this step?
 
Last edited:

rickgburton

Appliance Tech - Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Jul 11, 2006
Messages
36,400
Location
Murray, Utah 84107, United States
The fuse is OK. The problem is one of the door switches. There's two in the lower switch holder and one in the upper switch holder. Unplug the microwave. Remove the control panel. Use a long screwdriver ( any screwdriver will work as long as the handle is not metal) and touch the end to a terminal on the HV capacitor and touch the shaft of the screwdriver to the frame anywhere. If you haven't been able to use the microwave for the last 24 hours there's no voltage in the capacitor. Disconnect at least one wire from each of the microswitches. Check the microswitches for continuity by opening and closing the door. The one on top should show continuity with the door closed and no continuity when the door is open. The one on the bottom with three wires is most likely the bad one. The one on the bottom with two wires is good. If it was bad the microwave would be dead, no beeps or "door" in the display.
C-Microswitch.jpgMicroswitch Testing.jpg

Door Switch W10727360
Door-Switch-W10727360--01811634.jpg
 

acemaxx

Premium Member
Joined
Oct 9, 2016
Messages
2
Location
New York
Hi Rick,

Thank you so much for the advice. My microwave has two switches in the upper switch holder and one switch in the bottom holder. I had to remove the top holder from the microwave, because the switch with the three connectors was facing toward the microwave wall and I could not see it or get to it.

Once I got the switches out I could see how they were marked and how the plastic holder works to depress the actuator on the switch when the door is closed.

I tested all three switches for continuity and they tested ok. I had the thought that maybe the plastic holder part wasn’t depressing the actuator correctly when the door was closed. So I reinstalled the top holder and was able to test for continuity with the help of a flash light and small mirror. Both top switches tested ok with the door open and closed.

I put the microwave back together and now it works fine. Do you think it’s possible something is wrong with the controller board and it sort of rebooted since it’s been unplugged for a week?

I noticed the tolerance on the plastic holder for depressing the actuator on the switches is very small, could the plastic holder have started missing it’s mark and since I moved them around they are ok now?
 

rickgburton

Appliance Tech - Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Jul 11, 2006
Messages
36,400
Location
Murray, Utah 84107, United States
.....could the plastic holder have started missing it’s mark and since I moved them around they are ok now?
Yes. The screws that hold the switch holder should allow for some adjustment. Opening and closing the door after time pushes them out of adjustment. The problem was definitely one of the microswitches and not the control board. Good job!
 
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