• ** REMEMBER! **The microwave can still shock you even unplugged!!

    ALWAYS discharge the high-voltage capacitor first if you even think your hands will come close to any HIGH VOLTAGE components.

    Jeff mentions this: Anything in the high voltage ( magnetron, capacitor, diode, wires to and from ):
    ...Use a metal ( not the shiny chrome type ) screw driver with a insulated handle to short across ( touch both at the same time ) the terminals of the high voltage capacitor to discharge it.

    From Jeff's site: http://www.applianceaid.com/component-testing.php

    Jake
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FIXED WMH31017FS0 Whirlpool Microwave fuse and breaker trip after top two door switches replaced

MrFixItYurii

Premium Member
Joined
Nov 30, 2020
Messages
8
Location
Bellevue WA
Model Number
WMH31017FS0
Brand
Whirlpool
Age
1-5 years
at the apartment community I work at I’ve ran into at least 10 microwaves in the past couple months that have the door open error message come up and they are unable to use the microwave from what I’ve researched I gather it’s a door switch error for a couple microwaves I tested I replaced the bottom door switch or all switches and problem is fixed.

Recently I only replaced the two top switches in a microwave and not the bottom as soon as I turned it on the fuse is blown and the breaker tripped. I actually saw blue flashing when I plugged the microwave in the outlet. Was there something I did wrong?

WMH31017FS0 is the model number.
 
Check your wiring to the switches. It sounds like you might have a couple wires reversed. The monitor interlock switch is a NC switch that shorts L1 and Neutral together when the door is open but there's no power to the switch until the door closes. With the door closed the switch is open. Make sure you got the wires on the right switch terminals.
 
I took pictures of the wires when taking them off and putting them on. If by chance I did fix this and get it right should the microwave turn on again or is it just dead as of now. After the breaker popped I replaced the fuse and I still have nothing
 
Something in the microwave is out/open. Check the voltage through the noise filter on the microwave. Check if the board is getting 120 VAC.
 
120 VAC supply voltage (power cord ) connects to the noise filter and usually goes through the 20 amp fuse and out to the microwave components. Check for 120V going in and 120V going out. I don't have a wiring diagram for that machine so look on the board for L1 a black wire and N a white wire. If there's 120 VAC at the board and there's no display, the board is bad.
 
I figured out a mistake I made. I didn’t realize the two prong switches were different NO & NC I had two normally opens installed on the microwave when I did the replacement. I corrected it just now and replaced the fuse again and I’m still getting no power. Did doing this mistake damage something else? The way I have it set up is the 3 prong switch is on top next to that is the NC & COM switch and on the bottom I have the NO and COM switch. I realized my mistake when I saw your post in another thread so thank you Rick I appreciate your knowledge
 
Rick, I located the tech data sheet/wiring diagram. I'm attaching it below.

Jake
 

Attachments

  • W10867019-RevA.pdf
    399.7 KB · Views: 347
Anytime Rick!

Jake
 
Update: I think I found my issue I checked the power cord for continuity voltage and got nothing. Do I need to just replace the power cord? Or should I check/replace the noise filter too. If so how do I do this. And would I need to discharge the capacitor when I make this repair? What does the microwave capacitor affect and which repairs would you need to discharge it on
 
I checked the power cord for continuity voltage and got nothing.
You checked it for continuity while it was unplugged, correct? You didn't check it for 120 VAC supply voltage while it was plugged in, also correct? There is a bleed resistor on the HV capacitor and the microwave hasn't been working for a while so there's no reason to discharge it, there's no charge in it.

whirlpool-cord-power-w10708076-ap5956549_01_m.jpg
 
No I used my outlet tester to check for juice on the outlet. While the microwave was unplugged and put the meter to both prongs I checked for voltage and continuity. I also noticed the cord was a little charred probably from when I put the door switches in wrong that’s why it wouldn’t power up when I fixed my oopsies
 

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