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Worked Great >>> Stored for 2-yrs >>> Now Won't Cool

sccu1971

Member
Joined
Mar 6, 2015
Messages
1
Location
United States
Model Number
KSRS25FGWH02
Brand
KitchenAid
Age
More than 10 years
1. Bought new Fridge 2-years ago and put this one in the basement for future use. Worked excellent before moving it.

2. Powered it up early this week and left it on overnight and wasn't cool the next day >>> Found that compressor or fan wasn't running.

3. Did some google searching and found to ohm out compressor, check relay for rattle and check run capacitor >>> Compressor resistances didn't quite add up but thought there may be some error in my meter (2.9-ohms, 3.8-ohms and 6.2-ohms) >>> Did rattle check on relay (Good - no rattle) and checked resistance across relay terminals (4.6-ohms not sure if good or bad?) Also checked Overload resistance (0.2-ohms seems good?) >>> Checked 20uF Run Capacitor (Good @ 20.2uF). Reassembled everything.

4. Googled further and found to check defrost timer >>> found that defrost timer was OPEN on all three terminals across the common >>> Replaced timer and found that the condenser fan now turns ON and assumed all was good and sealed everything up assuming the timer was the issue. We filled the fridge up with goods and went to bed (Note: I admit I didn't feel the compressor if it was running when I sealed everything up.)

5. Next afternoon when I got home from work, wife says she doesn't think its cooling >>> went downstairs, sure enough... warm, but blower fan in freezer still running but condenser fan underneath was not. So I increased the both freezer and fridge thermostats and I could hear the condenser fan come ON below and then I dropped thermostats back to normal range - condenser fan still running >>> open freezer door and no cold air blowing out >>> opened up lower rear compartment panel and could hear relay clicking ON/OFF every 10-seconds to 1-minute at a time and I could see a blue spark when I heard the clicking. At this time the compressor was very cool and no vibration (not even sure how much vibration I should feel if it is running???) >>> so I went upstairs to check the forum for more symptom troubleshooting while letting fridge run for about a half hour >>> then I then rechecked it >>> now freezer felt like cool air has been circulating a little and fridge was still warm (I believe the freezer feeds the fridge side via pass-through). The compressor was feeling very warm to the touch, but I did have the rear panel off during this time and not sure if it wasn't being cooled enough by fan causing it to heat up??? I'm not even sure how warm it should get if the system is cooling??? which mine was cooling at that time a little over the 30-minute period. Also, it appears that the fan is quiet, blows good but not super fast but I did find that the blade assembly does move in-and-out on the shaft about 1/8" when I move it by hand (power disconnected of course).

I researched forum and google some more and some say to check relay. So, I pulled it again to make sure the relay didn't fry due to something happening after my timer replacement (but all values from my meter were the same) >>> I don't know the formal method to check the relay except the rattle test, which appears to me to have nothing rattling in it (pretty solid). I checked it's resistance and not sure what value that should be either (found it at 4.6-ohms). Any of the data I provided about my compressor checks (run / start resistances), relay resistance or other values that look out of the ordinary? Any additional tips are very much appreciated if you don't fall asleep while reading this book. Thank you and kind regards!
 
Last edited:

rickgburton

Appliance Tech - Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Jul 11, 2006
Messages
38,701
Location
Murray, Utah 84107, United States
Some machines just don't like to come out of retirement...lol. When refrigerators sit for a long time without running it can cause compressor problems. Your measurements look good. The clicking sound you hear is the overload opening and closing. The overload opens if the compressor gets too hot or if the compressor draws too many amps trying to start. Yours was cold at the time so we can eliminate heat being the cause. It could be the rotor in the compressor is sticky from sitting that long or it could be a weak overload. The overload should read closed on your DMM and 0.2 is closed but 0.0 is better. Use the lowest RX scale on your meter when checking it. However there may not be a problem with either one and I'll try to explain.

Your freezer thermostat is faulty and needs to be replaced. It's a common problem with mechanical cold controls. The contact points in the cold control sometimes stick open if the diaphragm is weak and that's the problem with yours. A bump or moving the machine or just touching the control knob will make the points close. When you got home from work you could hear the evaporator fan working because the refrigerator cold control was calling for cooling and controls the evap fan. The freezer cold control should also be calling for cooling but the contact points are open. The freezer cold control operates the compressor. The condensor fan motor is wired in parallel with the compressor. If the condensor fan motor is running the compressor should also be running. As soon as you turned the control knob, the points closed and you heard the condensor fan motor start. You then turned the controls back down and that's when you heard the overload opening and closing (clicking). If the compressor turned on, even if it was for only for a few seconds (when you heard the condensor fan turn on) then turned off (when you turned the controls back down) the compressor can't start against the high head pressure and will draw too many amps trying to start causing the overload to open and close until the pressures equal between the high side and low side.

Do this: Unplug the machine. Make sure all the panels and covers are on. Turn the controls to their coldest settings. Rotate the defrost timer slowly until it goes into defrost, then out of defrost. Plug the machine in or restore power. During the next 8 hours (8 hr timer) unless the freezer is 0*F or colder the compressor should be on and running. If it's not running take your hand and smack the freezer control and see if it turns on. After a few hours, if the machine seems to be getting cold, turn the controls down to mid position. After 24 hours the temperatures should be 0*F and 37*F.

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