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FIXED WRF555SDFZ05 Whirlpool Refrigerator - LED lighting help

dca

Premium Member
Joined
May 7, 2020
Messages
18
Location
PA
Model Number
WRF555SDFZ05
Brand
Whirlpool
Age
1-5 years
I am getting a dim, flickering, intermittent RC light. I read some parts here on older threads and other forums. I wanted to check the voltage supplied first to see if it is a power supply issue. I am getting a reading of 66VAC. This didn't sound right to me.

Thanks to another thread here, I found where my Tech sheet with schematic was hidden in the top right hinge cover. It shows 24V (350mA CC) coming from the control board at P10, to the LED module (string of 8 series LEDs). I'm guessing this should be DC volts. So, it seems like something is wrong with the supply. Problem is that this model does not have a separate LED power supply board, it looks like it's all on one integrated board that costs ~$300 for replacement.

I am an electrical engineer and so I could try to diagnose and repair the board, but before I do that, I'm wondering if you guys can confirm or dispute any of this.

It's a hell of a lot of trouble just for LED lights. I'm betting many people but the $50 LED module and are disappointed when it doesn't fix the problem. They shouldn't have to typically be replaced for the life of the fridge, unlike incandescent lights.

One more thought: The schematic shows another VCC and GND connection at P10-4 & 5 (vs. P10-1&2). Wondering if I might be able to re-terminate the wires at the plug to use what appears to be a possible second supply, but it may be the same feed. I might have to prove around to see.

Please advise.

Thanks -- DCA

Added complete model number
 

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Jake

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Hi,

We first need the complete model number, you are missing some digits at the end. The model number tag is located inside the refrigerator section on the upper walls or ceiling.

Here's the results I get:
WRF555SDFZ00
WRF555SDFZ01
WRF555SDFZ02
WRF555SDFZ03
WRF555SDFZ04
WRF555SDFZ05
WRF555SDFZ06
WRF555SDFZ07
WRF555SDFZ08
WRF555SDFZ09
WRF555SDFZ11

Jake
 

dca

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Messages
18
Location
PA
Hi Jake, and thanks for the reply.

It is an 05 suffix.

Thanks again,
Dave
 

Jake

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Thanks Dave,

Take a voltage reading between P10-1 and P10-2 and see if your meter reads 24 Volts DC with the refrigerator door open, if so then you will only need the LED Module, not the control board.

Here's the Refrigerator section LED Module for your model:
LED Light W11043011


One more thought: The schematic shows another VCC and GND connection at P10-4 & 5 (vs. P10-1&2). Wondering if I might be able to re-terminate the wires at the plug to use what appears to be a possible second supply, but it may be the same feed. I might have to prove around to see.
I wouldn't do that.:)

Jake
 

dca

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May 7, 2020
Messages
18
Location
PA
I switched to a different meter, and it reads about 30VDC. I think my other meter was low battery. After replacing it, also got 30VDC.

But, I connect to a bench supply with 100 ohm resistor. I measured 2V across the resistor, so this was only 20mA through the circuit.

So, it's either a bad connection or the supply is crapping out under load.

I'll try measuring in circuit now.
 

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dca

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May 7, 2020
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PA
Back in the fridge, it lights now. Under load, on the primary connector side, it reads closer to 24VDC. Stay tuned.
 

dca

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Location
PA
I've ruled out the door switches, because both sides (French door) produce the same result.
 

dca

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Location
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Back to old behavior again. Measured 30V on both sides, but I see one LED not lighting. Tested again on bench and they all light.

Seems like one LED gets upset under the higher current level of the fridge, but works when run at a lower milli-amp current level.
 

Jake

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Ok, I really don't know what's causing this.

Hopefully another tech that's seen this happen can shed some light on it for us.

Jake
 

RM2020

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Oct 24, 2020
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Location
NJ
Hi, having same issue, was this ever resolved? I ordered a new LED Module, should that work? Thanks.
 

Jake

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I ordered a new LED Module, should that work?
Yes, 9 times out of 10 the LED Module is the problem. Its extremely rare for the control board to cause this problem.

To Verify that--->Take a voltage reading between P10-1 and P10-2 and see if your meter reads 24 Volts DC with the refrigerator door open, if so then you will only need the LED Module, not the control board.

Here's the Refrigerator section LED Module for model WRF555SDFZ05:
LED Light W11043011


Jake
 

Jake

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Glad to help, let us know how it goes.

Jake
 

dca

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Location
PA
Yes, it ended up being the LED module. It was just intermittently failing. --Dave
 

Jake

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Excellent Dave, thanks for coming back to update us.(y)

Jake
 

bbs

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Jan 21, 2021
Messages
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Location
Michigan
Thanks Dave and Jake! I have a WRX735SDBM04 that has the same issue and uses the same LED module.

I have found zero info on the wiring diagram and power supply for the string of 8 LED's in the:

Your info is very handy in at least attempting to rule out the power supply for this issue. I too was getting 30.5VDC with no load and about 24.6VDC with the LED's plugged in. I now feel fairly confident that I won't be wasting money buying the LED module only to find out it was a supply issue. Thanks again for sharing good info.
 
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dca

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PA
yw BBS... It seems that they used a constant current supply to drive the LEDs (voltage can move around somewhat to maintain current). I forget the current rating, but it's noted on the schematic.
 

Mlicata1214

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Location
NJ-New Jersey
I have same model number french door fridge. The led lights are dim and the freezer led bulb doesn't light. The bulb is good. Going to order led module for fridge will this fix the freezer light also? Anyone notice freezer light out as well?
 

dca

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May 7, 2020
Messages
18
Location
PA
I have same model number french door fridge. The led lights are dim and the freezer led bulb doesn't light. The bulb is good. Going to order led module for fridge will this fix the freezer light also? Anyone notice freezer light out as well?
Hmm, that is an interesting one. Schematic is in the top hinge cap on right side door. I seem to remember both lights being fed from a similar, but separate constant current source on control board. That being said, one bad LED in fridge should not make freezer LED not work (or vice-versa), unless it failed in a way that was drawing excessive current, or the current source is bad (hopefully not).

For this one, I think I'd replace the fridge one first and see what happens. I tested mine with 24VDC LED modules from Amazon (2pk for $10), but that requires disconnecting the old module and cutting and soldering it's wires to the new module. But, not something for the average consumer.

Are you measuring +24VDC on the connector?
 
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