FIXED WRF560SEYM00 Fan shroud freezes up loud noise. Ice build up on coil.

Ken9854

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Model Number
WRF560SEYM00
Brand
Whirlpool
Age
1-5 years
Hello
Freezer freezes up and begins to produce a loud noise until defrosted then it works fine.

I checked the thermistor and it was bad so I replaced it. a week later it started doing the same thing.

so I defrosted it and installed a new circuit board. but still have the same problem.

when I look at the freezer i can see the ice build up is only in the center and not where the heating coil runs so I think the defrost cycle is functioning correctly but something else is causing it to buld exess ice in the center and around the fan shrowd. (see pic below)

I replaced the air filter and checked the circulating passage by hand and seem to be ok.

I also connected a manifold to the compressor while runing and it seems to have about 5 mmgh lbs of coolant. which is normal.

all door seals are in good shape.

don't know what else do to at this point.

the unit was bought used from a used appliance place whom claimed they replaced the compressor.

I did read this thread as reference

https://www.applianceblog.com/mainforums/threads/53676-Whirlpool-Model-WRF560SEYM00-Wont-cool-Evap-coil-froze-up

Thanks In advance

0kedDa0l.jpg
 
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Jake

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Ok,

So if you replaced the evaporator thermistor and main control board and it keeps frosting up then I'd ohm test your defrost heater.

Here's the defrost heater for your model you can order if needed:
Defrost Heater Assembly WPW10436849


Watch this video to test it:

[video=youtube;311BiD76iYg]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=311BiD76iYg&feature=player_embedded[/video]

Jake
 

Ken9854

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Thanks for the quick response.
I forgot to mention I did test that and it was fine.

I suppose at this point I should probably go in there and re test everything and post the results.
 

Jake

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Yes Ken, because those are the only 3 parts that control the auto-defrost, so one of them must be bad if its still not auto-defrosting on its own.

Jake
 

Ken9854

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Yes Ken, because those are the only 3 parts that control the auto-defrost, so one of them must be bad if its still not auto-defrosting on its own.

Jake
Thanks

I re tested the brand new thermistor and it reads Open loop when frozen and around 22k ohms when room temperature. So it's bad.

I could swear the thermistor tested about 7k ohms when new at room temperature. So now im curious is it possible something else damaged the thermistor after installation?

Im ordering a new thermistor and should be here in a week.
 

Jake

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Yes Ken,

WHILE ITS FROSTY, your freezer evaporator thermistor should read about 8.7K ohms. Always Unplug the refrigerator first before ohm testing.

If its not frosty put in a glass of ice water and wait at least 5 minutes before ohm testing it.

Here's the freezer evaporator thermistor for your model:
WPW10383615 Thermistor


Let us know how it goes.


So now im curious is it possible something else damaged the thermistor after installation?
Nope.

Jake
 

Ken9854

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Ok so I got a new thermistor from a different source and both thermistors read almost exactly the same thing

What am I doing wrong here?

when at room temperature they both read 2200 and 2500. when placed in icy water after 5 min they both read open loop.

is my multimeter bad? when I touch both probes it shows 0.2 ohms of resistance.

here is a picture of the ohm reading from one thermistor shortly after removing it from the icy water. . thermistor.jpg

I tested the heater coil while I was in there and it does have conductivity.

maybe the fan is not blowing hard enough?
 
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Jake

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Either your meter is bad, or your getting bad thermitors, Thats all it could be.

--->WHILE ITS FROSTY, your freezer evaporator thermistor should read 8.7K ohms. Always Unplug the refrigerator first before ohm testing.

--->If its not frosty put in a glass of ice water and wait at least 5 minutes before ohm testing it.

When you touch both probes together you should get 0 ohms.

Check your battery in your meter, or replace it if you haven't in awhile.

Where are you getting the thermistors at?

Jake
 

Ken9854

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When you touch both probes together you should get 0 ohms.
I do not get 0 ohms. it usually starts at 0.2 then it goes up to 0.3

if I touch the end of the red probe to the internal contact of the black probe in the multimeter I get 0.0 ohms. So I will get new probes.

Check your battery in your meter, or replace it if you haven't in awhile.
the two AA batteries read 1.9 V and 2.0 V, I put other batteries I had laying around that where 1.1V and the multimeter showed a low battery warning.

I will buy new batteries anyway.

Where are you getting the thermistors at?
Ebay

these are the last 2 I bought

ebay.com/itm/Thermistor-for-Whirlpool-Refrigerator-W10383615/122035200347?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

ebay.com/itm/Whirlpool-Thermistor-WPW-10383615/273202095099?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
 

Ken9854

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So I bought new batteries for the multimeter and it made no difference,
next I bought new test leads and it made no difference.
so i bought a new multimeter that came with new test leads and it also reads 0.2 ohms of resistance.

I went on the fluke website and it says The meter should read about 0.5 ohms or less for good quality test leads.

so I think I am well within the range of what is acceptable.

what are the odds of me getting two bad thermistors in a row?

Update:
I just repeated the ice cup with water test.

both thermistors go into open loop at around 6400 and 6500 ohms


Now even if my multimeter was off, it should never show open circuit on the thermistors. ?
 
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Jake

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what are the odds of me getting two bad thermistors in a row?
If you got them from ebay, the chances are very high they are sending you bad ones, a member here bought 3 dryer motors on ebay and all 3 were bad, then I told them to buy it through our link to it and it worked great!

And just this past week a member got 2 bad sump/motor assemblies from amazon, and both were bad, then I told him to order it from my link and he got it and it worked great!

Here is that thread: FIXED: KitchenAid KDTE104ESS1 washing problems Look on Page 2 as well.:)

Now even if my multimeter was off, it should never show open circuit on the thermistors?
Correct!

so i bought a new multimeter that came with new test leads and it also reads 0.2 ohms of resistance.
That's odd that your new meter shows .02 mine always shows 0 ohms when I touch my probes together. Did you have the meter at the lowest ohms of resistance setting? Or with it set for ohms at tone? If you had it on the high resistance setting then it could show under .05.

Order the thermistor from my link to it in post#6 and I'll guarantee it will show about 8.7K ohms while FROSTY or put in a glass of ice water and wait at least 5 minutes before ohm testing it and it should show about 8.7 ohms that way too.

Here's the thermistor chart you can see for yourself:
(click to enlarge)
020 Whirlpool Thermistors.jpeg

See where it says 32 degrees at 8750 Ohms? 8750 Ohms is the same as 8.7K Ohms.

Jake
 

Ken9854

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Thank you for your response.

I went and bought another thermistor from a local store about 25 miles away since I want to get this resolved quickly.

the new thermistor behaves exactly the same way as the previous 2. so that's 3 thermistors that appear to be bad.

Curiously enough when I test them with the new multi meter I bought at home depot they all test open loop at room temperature and when in frosty water.

to me that concludes that:
1. the Klein tools multimeter is junk
2. the fluke multimeter might not be working as it should.
3. highly highly unlikely I received 3 thermistors and they all happened to fail in the same way. (that is by going into open loop at 6500 ohms. ) most likely what is really happening is that I have a multimeter with rusty inner terminals or bad probes that is introducing extra resistance and thus causing an open loop reading.

I will buy another multi meter from home depot and test the thermistors again.

my assumption now is that the thermistors are all good. and the issue in the refrigerator is caused by something else.

thoughts?

That's odd that your new meter shows .02 mine always shows 0 ohms when I touch my probes together. Did you have the meter at the lowest ohms of resistance setting? Or with it set for ohms at tone? If you had it on the high resistance setting then it could show under .05.
The multimeter does that automatically, I just set the dial to Ohms and it will "auto range" it will beep when closed circuit, it goes from high resistance to low resistance on its own. when I test the thermistors it shows 4 digit resistance such as you see in the picture 5500 ohms or 0.5 ohms if touching the two probes together.
 
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Ken9854

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so I bought another multimeter from home depot (commercial electric is the brand) probes read 0.0 ohms when touching

and all 3 thermistors are showing around 8.7K ohms in frosty water.

So I think that rules out the thermistors.

what else can I trouble shoot?

like I said the heating element is completely ice free, so is it possible the defrost cycle is taking place but something else is causing ice build up?

how would I make sure the fan is blowing hard enough?
the ice does build up over the coolant line and into the compressor in the back.

and in the inside of the freezer the ice seems to begin where the small coolant line turns into a wider coolant line. so is it possible there is a restriction?
 

Jake

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So it was a bad meter. That solves that mystery.:)

I just located a service bulletin on this problem: https://www.dropbox.com/s/aiznm5pf95v7thm/Service Pointer - W10875533 - Rev A (Insufficient Cooling).pdf?dl=0

This is the part you will need to order:

The Service Kit includes a plastic thermistor, foil, and wire tie. Installation instructions are included in the kit.

Jake
 

Ken9854

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wow thank you for that bulletin not sure i would have ever found it.


If corrosion has formed on the brass freezer defrost thermistor, it might impact the thermistor performance, allowing ice to accumulate on the evaporator
I will update this post when I install the updated parts. 2 thermistors I received have rust on them, the last one I got locally is rust free and is currently installed in the refrigerator while I wait for the new parts to arrive.

lets hope the issue was the rusted thermistor.
 

Jake

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Yes, I agree.

Yes, keep us posted please, this is a very unusual problem nobody has brought up yet here, except you so far.

Jake
 

Ken9854

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I installed the new plastic thermistor in the freezer yesterday and it was already beginning to frost with the non rusted copper thermistor I bought locally.

I did test the new plastic thermistor and it read around 8.1k Ohms in icey water.

will wait and see what happens. it usually takes about a week for it to get completely caked in ice.
 

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Jake

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Are you putting the cover back in place over the coils?

That looks like a sealed system problem if only the top one or two coils has frost on them only, and the rest of the coils have no frost on them.

Jake
 

Ken9854

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Yes I put the cover and fan shrowd back on, it does not circulate air properly otherwise.

Yes the frost seems to begin where the coil goes from thin to a larger diameter and propagates from there downwards. I have never seen any frost on the heating element.

how would i trouble shoot the closed system problem? the used appliance place i bought it from did say they replaced the compressor, so maybe they did not do a proper job.
 
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