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WRF560SEYM01 Whirlpool Refrigerator Damper doesn’t allow air to circulate maybe?

Junctiontime

Premium Member
Joined
Jun 11, 2021
Messages
2
Location
New York
Model Number
WRF560SEYM01
Brand
Whirlpool
Age
6-10 years
Before anything thank you for any of your suggestions and opinions. They are greatly appreciated.

A couple of days ago my Refrigerator WRF560SEYM01 stopped cooling the fresh food area. The freezer was ice cold with all the items in there rock solid. I combed through the Internet and I came across this forum and found a post that seem similar to the issues I was having. In that post they recommended to change out the thermistor found in the freezer section by the coils. Mind you the coils are not frozen over and I checked the heater for continuity and they’re good. I installed a new thermistor and I’m still having the same issues with the top not being cold I didn’t feel any air coming up.
I think my issue is with the damper/ baffle.


The fridge comes with a diagnostic test and I ran through it and each item that was listed on there works good individually even the damper.

I opened the center cover to reveal the dampe . The damper door never opened waited around 15- 20 min

So my questions here are what makes the damper open. What should I be looking for ? Would it be a main Control board issue or a thermostat? Where do I find that thermostat that sends the the signal to the damper control assembly unit. Do I have to replace the damper ?
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
122,630
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
I'm attaching your tech. data sheet below. On the control board it says connector P2 Pin 5(yellow/red wire) is the Air Baffle, but the tech. data sheet does not mention where to put your other meter probe to see if you are getting 120 volts to it when you have it ON in the diagnostic mode.

I will need to ask Rick about this.

Here's the Damper(Air Baffle) assembly for your model:
whirlpool-damper-w11087463-ap6048057_01_l.jpg


Jake
 

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Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
122,630
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
Thanks Rick!

Jake
 

Junctiontime

Premium Member
Joined
Jun 11, 2021
Messages
2
Location
New York
Thank you Rick and Jake
I managed to open the control board I placed my meter on the P2 pin5 and place the other on P1 pin 2 . I’m getting 120v to the meter . The damper opens and closes while in diagnostics mode. Would this mean the control board wouldn’t be the issue ?

Thanks
Felix
 

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  • 07C61409-011C-4340-8F6D-75A7B39BD4A3.jpeg
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Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
122,630
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
Ok, your damper is good.:)

You also have a thermistor in the refrigerator section, did you do the thermistor test in the diagnostics in STEP 7? If not do that first.

See in TABLE 2 of the tech. data sheet, RC(Refrigerator Control) thermistor, If those LED's are flashing then its bad.

The refrigerator thermistor shows that it is #39 here:
(click to enlarge)
WRF560.jpg

WPW10384183 Thermistor


If its bad, it looks like you will need to cut and splice it in, if there is no quick disconnect on it. Disconnect power to the refrigerator first!

Let us know how it goes.

Jake
 
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