FIXED WRF736SDAM14 Whirlpool Refrigerator - All LED lights in the freezer and refrigerator do not work

[emclean]

Model Number

WRF736SDAM14

Brand

Whirlpool

Age

1-5 years

We have a Whirlpool WRF736SDAM14. The lights were flickering and going dim intermittently for about a month then they all stopped working one day, and have not worked since. The door switches seem to still work since the water in door doesn't work when the doors are open and the audible chime goes on when the doors are open too long.

I have had problems finding a wiring schematic online, but have done some tests and here is what I found:
1) the smaller LED's in the frige currently receive a varied amount of a/c voltage, between .65 and 4.9 volts depending which one I check and whether the door is open or shut (I am not getting anything on the d/c voltage range)
2) the large LED on the ceiling of the frige, I believe the part number is W110333329 is receiving a 120 volt a/c signal on the larger white and yellow wires going to it when the doors are open
3) I have swapped out the smaller LED's with each other and have had no change.

I am suspecting that the larger LED receives the signal and then powers up the rest of the lights and the large LED isn't working. Would that be correct?

Any info you could provide would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks

 

[Jake]

Ok, if you are getting 120 volts to W110333329 and its not putting out 14-20 volts DC to make the other LED modules come on then its bad.

You can order it here:

Whirlpool W11033329 Cntrl-Elec (AP6039953) - AppliancePartsPros.com

CNTRL-ELEC W11033329 / AP6039953 made by Whirlpool

click.linksynergy.com

Jake

 

[emclean]

Thanks for the quick response!
I just ordered it thru the link you provided, Appliance Parts Pros.
I'll let you know how it works out.

Eli

 

[Jake]

Ok Eli, sounds good.

Jake

 

[emclean]

I plugged in the new controller and still have no lights. With the door switches in the closed position and the larger yellow and white wires, have no voltage. With the door switches in the open position I get 120 volts (back probing the connector with the connector plugged in to the controller). At this point I would assume that the controller would light up. I checked the wires going to the rest if the LED lights and I am getting 20 volts from the white to the orange wire and 20 volts from the red to the orange wire.
While I am doing this diagnosis, I don't have all the LED's plugged in, just the main one/ controller, with the hopes that the main LED would light up if its good. If I get the main one to light up, then I was going to plug the others in. Am I missing something here? Do you have a schematic for this model?

 

[Jake]

That's very odd, something is not adding up here.

I'm attaching the schematic below. Look at the very bottom left it says Diamond LED Driver 1--->YELLOW and WHITE is the incoming 120 volts.

What you can do is use a jumper wire and jump each LED to see which one is bad. When you jump the bad one, the rest will light up in that series.

FC(freezer LED)
RC(refrigerator LED)

So if you look at the schematic J2-1(red) and J2-2(orange/black) goes to FC LED and is in series with RC LED top 2 and RC LED top 1.

Let us know what you find

Jake

 

[emclean]

Jake,

Thanks for the schematic, it helped out alot!

So originally in my first post I wasn't familiar with the lights running in series so some of my electrical tests most likely weren't valid.

With both Diamond led controllers I found that there was 20 volts being supplied to the J2 connector circuit on the Diamond driver. This circuit powers the two ice maker LED's and the freezer LED. There was no power coming from the J3 connector on the Diamond driver and the LED driver wouldn't light up. I followed and had power going thru the ice maker lights and going to the freezer light. I jumped out the freezer light. When I did the icemaker lights and the Diamond driver LED lit up. Additionally I started getting 20 volts out of the J3 connector. It almost seems that the completion of the J2 connector circuit becomes a 'wake up' to tell the Diamond controller to bring the J3 circuit on line.

In the end the hardest LED to get to (in the freezer) was the problem all along. I have all the lights working now with the freezer light jumped out.

Thanks again for all your help!

Eli

 

[Jake]

Excellent Eli, good find.

Here's the freezer LED for your model you can order:

Whirlpool W10854032 Module (AP6004678) - AppliancePartsPros.com

MODULE W10854032 / AP6004678 made by Whirlpool

click.linksynergy.com

Jake