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WRF736SDAM14 Whirlpool Refrigerator Ice maker stopped working strange fill test

Vic91218

Premium Member
Joined
Jan 22, 2021
Messages
4
Location
Southeast
Model Number
WRF736SDAM14
Brand
Whirlpool
Age
1-5 years
Hello everybody. Thank you so much for this forum, it’s been a great resource over the years.

My Whirlpool fridge model WRF736SDAM14 stopped making ice. I’ve followed the instructions here and ran the tests. Everything comes back as normal, EXCEPT the ice maker fill test. From what I understand, using SW3 you make it go from ON, OFF and PAUSE. Well the first few times I ran this test I didn’t hear anything. I ran it a few more and toggled between on and off a few times and suddenly it came on. I heard it very clearly. I successfully did the test a couple more times while looking inside the dark fridge and I could almost see what looked like a spark or arc through one of the lights in the roof of the fridge? Any ways, I cleaned up some water and I had ice in the morning... one batch, and it hasn’t made any since. Is this a valve problem? And if so, which of the two valves should I order? I’ve seen a couple suggestions and I’m guessing one goes in the back of the fridge and one in the roof? Any help is very much appreciated! Thank you.
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
117,784
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
Hi,

Rick helped another member here:

It sounds like its possibly that water inlet valve, since you saw the spark too. Its located inside the top of your refrigerator section, there is a video in that part link that shows you how to access it.

Here's the water inlet valve for your model:
Water Inlet Valve WPW10341329


Get into the diagnostics per Ricks thread and also run--->Service Test - 56: Ice Maker Error Codes
Displays active ice maker error codes on the UI display.

E0 = No errors

E1 = No cooling. Ice maker timed out. Ice compartment unable to reach desired temperature. Possible cooling or fan issue.

E2 = Motor lost position. Ice maker did not find home during harvest and exceeded maximum attempts. Check for obstructions in ice maker. If none found, verify operation of ice maker.

E3 = Heater time-out. Ice mold heater on longer than maximum allowable time. Ice maker heater is driven to a certain temperature. If temperature not reached, a time delay shuts it down. Possible heater issue.

E4 = Dry cycle. Unit detected dry cycles above minimum requirement. Possible valve or frozen fill tube.

E5 = Ice maker thermistor is bad. Ice storage temperature satisfied but ice mold in frozen state too long. Possible ice mold thermistor issue.

Jake
 

Vic91218

Premium Member
Joined
Jan 22, 2021
Messages
4
Location
Southeast
Thank you Jake. I ran test 56 again and it comes back E0. Do you think it could still be the Water Inlet Valve even with the water dispenser operating normally?
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
117,784
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
Do you think it could still be the Water Inlet Valve even with the water dispenser operating normally?
Yes, I do.

Your water inlet valve is a DUAL solenoid, mean you have 1 solenoid that controls the water dispenser, 1 solenoid controls the water fill to the ice maker. So the water dispenser can work fine, while the ice maker fill can give out, you see what I mean?

But they only sell the water inlet valve with BOTH solenoids.:)

Jake
 

Vic91218

Premium Member
Joined
Jan 22, 2021
Messages
4
Location
Southeast
Hey guys! I installed the new water inlet valve; https://www.repairclinic.com/PartDe...e=cj&cjevent=bf370c306a2b11eb836905ad0a24060b

Unfortunately the icemaker is still not making ice. I’ve given it two full days after install.

Just re-ran diagnostics and;
Service Test 56 comes back E0
Service Test 57 and 59 complete fine.
However, SERVICE TEST 45: Ice Maker Water Fill test... this I believe fails. Before replacing the water inlet valve, when running this test it was intermittent, prompting me to replace the valve... Now when running this test, it never fills no matter how many times I go from off/on/paused. When I click “on” I hear a slight click, and if looking into the dark fridge while pressing the button at the same time, when I hear the click I can aLos see a tiny bit of light in the roof LED lights for a blip. Any ways... any recommendations guys? What should be my next step? Any help very much appreciated.
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
117,784
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
Ok, on the main control board in the back of the refrigerator, when you have TEST 45 activated check for 120 volts between P3-3 and P1-1 on the main board control, if you don't get 120 volts, then the main control board is bad and causing this problem.

Here's the main control board for your model you can order:

Jake
 

Vic91218

Premium Member
Joined
Jan 22, 2021
Messages
4
Location
Southeast
Ok, thanks Jake! Any other ideas guys? I can handle replacing the inlet valve or maybe ice maker but the main control board seems a bit out there for me. I can go buy a meter, but how do I even access it? It’s just behind the fridge?
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
117,784
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
Yes, just pull the refrigerator out from the wall, then look on the back exterior wall and you will see a cover with screws attaching it, just remove those screws and you will see the main control board.

Then get a flashlight and/or magnifying glass and look for P3-3 and P1-1 on the main board control.

P3 is the connector 3 is the pin with the wire going to it, the color of that wire is TAN.
P1 is the connector 1 is the pin with the wire going to it, the color of that wire is BLACK/WHITE.

Jake
 
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