WRS325FDAW04 Whirlpool Fridge LED Light Question

[HammerAndTongs]

Model Number

WRS325FDAW04

Brand

Whirlpool

Age

6-10 years

My experience with refrigerator lighting is limited to unscrewing the dead bulb and screwing in the new one. How do I go about getting the newfangled LED lights to work again?

I have two lights in the fridge and one in the freezer. All three are dimly flickering. When we bought the fridge (used), they all worked. Then one day, I noticed the refrigerator lights (both, I think) weren't working. I don't recall when I realised the freezer light wasn't working or that there was a light in the freezer. I know the fridge lights did work.

Every once in a great while and with decreasing frequency (months between), the lights will get bright just for a moment or two and then return to dim flickering.

Any one of these three being faulty could cause the other two to be dim? So how do you know which parts to replace?

 

[Jake]

Hi,

These LED lights run in series, the only one you will need to replace is this one:
Led Light Assembly WPW10515058


There is a video in the part link to show you how to replace it.

Another member had this exact same problem and that fixed his too:

FIXED - Whirlpool refrigerator WRS322FNAM01 LED lights dim

I have a five year old Whirlpool WRS322FNAM01 refrigerator. All three LED lights are dim. Should I replace all three? Thanks!

www.applianceblog.com

Let us know how it goes.

Jake

 

[HammerAndTongs]

Unfortunately, that did not fix it.

That video doesn't exactly convey what a major pain it is to remove the part from the top of the fridge. Granted the guy wasn't working with a butter knife and a very old pair of bifocals.

Do you have any other thoughts?

 

[Jake]

Ok, Is the freezer LED coming on at all? Or is it dim or flickering?

If the freezer LED is not coming on at all, Tell me what volts you get on the FREEZER side LED Module: J2-1(RED) to J2-2(GRAY) 11-14 Volts DC is normal.

Here's the freezer section LED module for your model:
LED Light WPW10515057


Also, Volt test between the YELLOW wire and WHITE wire at that AC/DC LED module inside the refrigerator section you just replaced.

If you get 120 volts between YELLOW and WHITE, then the problem is the AC/DC LED module you got is defective.

I've replaced many of these AC/DC LED modules for my customers and it always fixes it.

Jake

 

[HammerAndTongs]

Freezer:
Had my son try to take the measurement, as he is much thinner. He said he "heard something." I was looking at the meter, and it stayed at 0.
I tried myself , and I saw no voltage across J2. That should be 120AC?
What would happen if he touched the probe across J2?
If J2 should have 120V AC, and it doesn't, is that a wiring problem, eg, broken wire? Or could shorting those two wires burn something out?

Fridge:
Someone reinserted the light that took me about 20 minutes to get off. Thinking about trying the hammer this time.

 

[Jake]

Volt test between the YELLOW wire and WHITE wire at that AC/DC LED module inside the refrigerator section you just replaced.

If you get 0 volts, then you have a broken or shorted wire, because the 120 volts comes from the door switch when the door is open.

Unless you have two bad door switches at the same time, which would be almost impossible to happen.

You can test the door switch to be sure.

Here's the door switch:

Whirlpool W11457217 Switch (AP6987430) - AppliancePartsPros.com

Switch W11457217 / AP6987430 made by Whirlpool

click.linksynergy.com

Unplug the refrigerator from the wall outlet and remove that door switch and ohm test it per this video below:



Jake