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WRS588FIHZ00 Whirlpool Refrigerator - ice maker not making ice

simon2j

Premium Member
Joined
Oct 25, 2020
Messages
7
Location
GA
Model Number
WRS588FIHZ00
Brand
Whirlpool
Age
1-5 years
So I've read other posts about this same issue however mine is a bit different. The ice maker stopped making ice and I consistently get the same code in the service mode of "2/3" (faulty motor or switch). I found some broken wires at the bottom of the freezer door and fixed those and I also replaced the ice maker and I'm still getting the same error code.

Using the electrical service manual I traced the problem all the way to the control board and replaced that....and im still getting the same result "2/3" (faulty motor or switch). When I enter in service mode, step 44, the ice maker will send the arm down and rotate to dump the ice but it seems to get stuck there and thats when I get the error code.

It appears as though it's not getting the correct voltage to the plug at the bottom of the freezer door and it also doesn't seem to be sending the correct voltage from the control board (hence the reason I replaced the board) however it still isn't working with the same error code.

Any advice? At this point I'm stumped and figure I just need to live without ice.
 

rickgburton

Appliance Tech - Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Jul 11, 2006
Messages
43,665
Location
Murray, Utah 84107, United States
I also replaced the ice maker
That usually fixes it.
I found some broken wires at the bottom of the freezer door
Recheck those wires. It sounds like you may have missed one. Sometimes the wire breaks inside the wire casing so give each wire a tug.
 

simon2j

Premium Member
Joined
Oct 25, 2020
Messages
7
Location
GA
I rechecked the wires and it seemed as though the white wire had a bend in the insulation and may have been broken inside...its hard to tell because the wires are so skinny. I cut it and reconnected it at that spot. Now the icemaker cycles fully in step 44 where as b4 it would stay in the 'ice dumping position'. The code now reads "2/2" (harvest cycle off/ice bucket not full). However the arm on the ice tray does not stay down....it raises back up. Should the arm be down in order for ice to be produced?
 

simon2j

Premium Member
Joined
Oct 25, 2020
Messages
7
Location
GA
So it's definitely something to do with the wires. It made ice once or twice but when I bundled the wires back together and put the kick plate back on it stopped working again. Obviously there is a short somewhere but I don't know where. Atleast now I know what the problem is.

Thanks for your help and quick responses. Without the other threads explaining how wires can be broken inside the insulation i would have never figured it out!
 

rickgburton

Appliance Tech - Moderator
Staff member
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Messages
43,665
Location
Murray, Utah 84107, United States
Remember you need to solder the wires and use heat shrink. Give each wire a good tug. If it's not broken it won't break.
 

simon2j

Premium Member
Joined
Oct 25, 2020
Messages
7
Location
GA
Maybe that's why it's not working. I just connected them with butt connectors. Is that not sufficient?
 

rickgburton

Appliance Tech - Moderator
Staff member
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Messages
43,665
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Murray, Utah 84107, United States
No, especially if you didn't add any extra wire. They will pull out the first time you open the door.
 

simon2j

Premium Member
Joined
Oct 25, 2020
Messages
7
Location
GA
Ok so I pulled the kick plate off again and checked all of the wires. None of them had pulled out and there was plenty of slack. However now it's giving me the same "2/3" error in service mode and the ice tray won't rotate at all. Before it always rotated clockwise but would not return to the home position. Now it does nothing....and yesterday it made ice! Something must have happened when I put everything back together (Kickplate etc).

My thought now is to add some thicker gauge wire to the white and red existing wires which appear to be the problem children. Maybe one of the wires is broken inside the insulation somewhere else that I can't see...? Maybe it pulled out when the door was opened and closed? It doesn't seem likely as there is plenty of slack in the wires but I can't come up with any other possibilities. Unless a wire is broken inside the door where I can't get to and in that case I'm screwed. Also I only used butt connectors to connect the broken wires...is solder and heat shrink really necessary? I thought butt connectors were made for that exact purpose....?
 

rickgburton

Appliance Tech - Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Jul 11, 2006
Messages
43,665
Location
Murray, Utah 84107, United States

simon2j

Premium Member
Joined
Oct 25, 2020
Messages
7
Location
GA
Ok thank you. I will add wire and use solder and heat shrink and report back.
 
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