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WRX986SIHV00 Whirlpool Refrigerator - no cool

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bizzs

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Model Number
WRX986SIHV00
Brand
Whirlpool
Age
1-5 years
Does anyone have a service repair manual for whirlpool WRX986SIHV00? My 16 month refrigerator bit the dust and I suspect a sealed system failure. I tapped compressor and no R134a was measuring on manifold gauges, and there is no frost on evaporator.

Thanks
Dean
 

rickgburton

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.....and no R134a was measuring on manifold gauges,....
What was the low side pressure? High side pressure? Compressor running and no frost on the evaporator is definitely a sealed system issue.
 

bizzs

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Thanks for the reply Rick. The problem is definitely the compressor and it is smoked. There was a leak near the low port crimp. Unbelievable!! There was no ohms found and I unwelded the compressor and removed. Whirlpool was kind enough to send me a new one free of charge. What brand and type of brazing rod should I use to weld this thing back in? It has been awhile since I did a sealed system and I have read many different online opinions.

Thanks
 

bizzs

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Thanks Rick for the info. Two of those lines appear to be steel and I will be soldering them to copper as you know. Have a great weekend!!
 

bizzs

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One more question Rick relating back to my original post. Do you have a service manual for this model?

Thanks
Dean
 

rickgburton

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I don't, sorry. I have the wiring diagram and tech sheet. Yours should be under one of the hinge covers.
 

bizzs

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Thanks for checking Rick. I already found the tech sheet. Keep me in mind if you come across the service manual.

Thanks for your effort
 

bizzs

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Hi Rick, Can you give some pointers on charging this unit? This model has the duel evaporator system.

I replaced the compressor and flushed the system with nitro. I vacuumed the system and the seal held. I weighed in 5.5 ounces of r134a on low side and started compressor. The food section started to cool but I noticed that the dryer was developing frost and the freezer was not cooling within 20 minutes as per the tech sheet. There was no high pressure at the dryer stem valve. I shut down unit and restarted. The compressor was trying to start but it kept stalling.

I removed and recovered about an ounce of r134a and the compressor started back up but it would not cool the fridge. I shut down system and recovered all the r134a. I disassembled the sealed system and cleaned it again. It appeared to me that the r134a was not being dispensed through the freezer evaporator and the 5 .5 ounces had overcharged the compressor. The compressor would jump but it would not run. I cleaned the system again and brazed in a new dye dryer. I found a tech manual that is very similar to my model, and from my interpretation, the refrigerant 3 way valve has to be in "home" position so both evaps are wide open. The tech sheet explains a service test procedure to test this valve, but it does it in sequences. Is there a way that I can have the rkv valve remain at the "home" setting so the r134a will charge directly throughout the entire sealed system? Thoughts?

Thanks
Dean
 

rickgburton

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...the dryer was developing frost
That's a system restriction in the filter/drier or cap tube.

Is there a way that I can have the rkv valve remain at the "home" setting
You need to go into service mode and run test #4. When you press SW3 the control drives the 3 way valve to the home position (4 minutes) Hold the 3 way valve in your hand when you don't feel any movement in the valve unplug the machine.
 

bizzs

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Location
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Hi Rick, I am in need of some your expertise. This dual evaporator is being a jerk and not cooperating. I believe that there maybe a restriction in the freezer evaporator or a problem with the reversing diverter. I cleaned the sealed system out and replaced the drier filter. I vacuumed system and pressure held on manifold. I ran test 4 and placed the 3 way valve to the home position. I weighed in 5.5 oz and started unit. The r-c cooled down and temperature was about 40f after 20 minutes. I noticed the low psi balanced out between 2-4. The F-C fan switched on and the temperatures dropped down to 11 degrees F but started to climb. I checked the manifold gauge and the low psi reading dropped to -10 psi. There was no frosting seen on any off the suction lines or drier. I proceeded to test 5 and allowed it to go throw cycles. On Cycle 4, the R-C cooled down and manifold gauge low side went to 4 psi. When cycle 5 activated, the F-C fan came on and the temperature dropped to 27 degrees and the low psi dropped back to a -10. What do you recommend? I thought the low side psi should be between 0-3. Does this appear to be a restriction problem with the freezer evaporator, or could it be the reversing diverter?

Thanks for your help,
Dean
 

rickgburton

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......and the low psi dropped back to a -10
It's in a vacuum so it restricting at the cap tube. The valve moves to Full Close for a short period before cooling to allow the compressor to evacuate refrigerant from the low side and pump it to the high side of the sealed system. Run the valve to full open and unplug the machine. Now this is just what I would do. It's just a suggestion. Replace the filter. Run the vacuum pump for 30 minutes to eliminate any moisture or contaminants. When it comes to these three way valves I believe some dyes are a contaminant. Don't use a filter with a dye. Then recharge it. That might solve any issues with the valve.
 

bizzs

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Thanks for the info Rick. I just replaced the drier with the one whirlpool sent me (part WPW10143759). This part number is what was listed. Do you have another drier part number to recommend that does not have the dye?

Also, I just removed the F-C evaporator cover. There is no frost pattern and the evaporator is completely warm. Whirlpool did send me an evaporator along with other parts. Do you recommend that I replace it or just cut the cap tube from the current one to check for clogs and weld it back in? Is there a way to check to see if the 3 way refrigerant valve is restricted?

Thanks,
Dean
 
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rickgburton

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If they sent you an evaporator, I would use it. They must know something or did you just order an evaporator. Was the compressor a burn out?
 

bizzs

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Yes Rick the compressor was blown. The funny part was that the compressor still ran but it had a sweet smell and it would not cool. I received a compressor, evaporator, invertor and dye drier from whirlpool. I tapped into the system and I thought there was a leak but it was my quick tap malfunctioning. I recovered about 5.4 oz of r134a and installed the new compressor and dryer. I vacuumed them for about 2 hours and charged a weigh in of 5.5 oz. As I explained in my previous post, I had frost problems around the new drier and replaced it with another whirlpool drier after I flushed out the system again. I vacuumed and no leaks were found. I weigh charged 5.5 oz in again which leads me to this current problem. At first the R-C and F-C where cooling to around 38f and 11f, but stopped. The low psi ranged from 3 to 4 while cooling the r-c but as the refrigerant valve switched to cool the f-c, the pressure dropped to -20 like it was in a vacuum mode. The temperatures decreased in both compartments to RC 41f and FC 29f. I removed FC evaporator panel and there was no frost pattern and the evaporator was not even cool to touch or was frost around the cap tube. I did notice the the temp in the rc had lowered to 26 degrees.

What do you recommend my next step should be? Should I install the FC evaporator and replace the drier with a non dye? Or should I replace the refrigerant valve switch too? Is there way that I can check to see if this 3 way valve has a restriction?

Thanks
 
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