FIXED WSF26C3EWW01 Ice maker doesn't fill, no power is going to the valve

HKL

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Sep 28, 2018
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16
Location
Karnack Texas
Model Number
WSF26C3EWW01
Brand
Whirlpool
Age
1-5 years
There seems to be no power going to the icemaker side of the fill valve. I jumped is and it does open when 120 v is applied.
I replaced the ice maker assy but that didn't resolve the issue.
 

rickgburton

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I jumped is and it does open when 120 v is applied.
Did water flow through the valve when you jumped it? Your machine uses an isolation valve so two solenoids need to be energized at the same time, the isolation solenoid and the water or ice solenoid. To keep the voltage from going to both coils (ice and water) a set of diodes is used between the isolation valve and the ice and water valve. Both diodes are polarized in the same direction and connected to the violet wire on the isolation valve coil. Check both diodes with a meter. You should have continuity in one direction and no continuity in the other direction. Measurements should be the same for both diodes.
 

HKL

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Location
Karnack Texas
water did flow into the ice maker and later it harvested the ice but didn't refill on it's own
 

HKL

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I also did the optics test and everything checks good, voltage test at the ice maker is good, voltage to the heater is good, no blockages.
 

rickgburton

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I think you're missing something. The ice maker is completing a harvest cycle, correct? The ice maker sends 120 VAC to the water valve at the end of the harvest cycle. You said you connected 120 VAC to the water valve and it worked filling the ice maker mold. Going by that information your new ice maker is bad. It's not sending the 120 VAC to open the water valve. Can you tell me exactly how you tested the water valve by "jumping" it?? How did you get it to open??
 

HKL

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Location
Karnack Texas
I switched the plug from the dual valve and sent power to the ice maker valve instead of the water fill on the door when the pad was pressed
 

HKL

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I see the valve and diodes on the schematic but didn't see the isolation valve when I pulled the frig out. Will have to pull it out again to look. I also looked for the isolation valve in the parts list and don't see it. are the diodes replaced separately or part of a wiring harness with a replacement valve
 

rickgburton

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The isolation valve is the single coil water valve behind the machine. The main water supply connects to it. This is where you will most likely find the diodes. Whirlpool wants you to buy the wire harness with the diodes but you can just replace the diodes. Click on this part link and then click on the image to blow it up. You'll see the diodes at the bottom of the image connected to the violet wire in the red solenoid connector.
Wire Harness W11098408
Wire-Harness-W11098408-05586543.jpg
 

HKL

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Location
Karnack Texas
Thanks, that helps alot. I have replaced diodes before on equipment charging systems instead if a complete armature. is there any specific perameters of the diodes.
 

rickgburton

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Install polarized in the same direction with the cathodes on the violet wire. These are from a Frigidaire refrigerator:
Snapshot_2.jpg
 

HKL

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finally got a chance to check, no continuity in either direction. will order the wiring harness.
thanks
 

HKL

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Messages
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Location
Karnack Texas
The gremlins continue.
I now have replaced the wiring harness and ice maker yet the ice maker water valve still doesn't come on. The ice tray heater now works, when a harvest is started but the valve doesn't open. I checked the valve again by changing the plug from the water fill side to the ice maker side and the ice maker fills when I press the water fill pad. I've gone back through the test sheets and Tech Training Pointer W10687894 that I purchased on line and neither show any indications of what could be wrong.
 

rickgburton

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That's weird since the diode checked bad. What kind of meter do you have? Force cycle the ice maker and measure the voltage at both water valves.
 

HKL

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I get voltage 120vac to the water valve (purple wire) plug when pressing the water pad but no voltage to the ice maker valve plug, Tan & white, when I start a cycle and let it run through.
 
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rickgburton

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OK, Force cycle the ice maker and put the meter leads in holes "N" and "V" on the power module. At the end of the harvest cycle the meter should indicate 120 VAC for about 7 seconds.
 

rickgburton

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That's the correct voltage for the water valve so there should be 120 VAC at the IM water valve (tan wire and white wire) and 120 VAC at the isolation valve. If you have 120 VAC leaving the ice maker (N-V) and nothing at the water valve and iso valve sounds like a broken wire between the two.
 

HKL

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Location
Karnack Texas
I checked the four wire plug at the top of the freezer door that connects to the ice maker and the plug coming out of the door, the white and black wires have continuity, the green and tan do not.
now to figure out how to get behind the place where the plug comes out at the top of the freezer door and replace the wires or entire harness. I see the wires are running through a wire loom at the bottom of the door so if I can get through the top access I may be able to pull 2 new wires or a new harness through
 
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