FIXED WT1001CT Replaced Clutch Motor and washer shifter assembly and coupling, however still get E6. Noticeable gap between shifter assembly, and coupling.

[Jake]

@Robert4 posted the service manual in post #7 that should tell you how to get into service mode, did you check the service manual?

You should also have a tech. data sheet inside the washer that would tell you as well, look inside the console or inside the washer cabinet for it.

Also look at this: https://www.applianceblog.com/mainforums/search/143492/?q=LG+washer+E6&o=relevance It shows others with this E6 code and what they did to fix theirs.

 

[jeepman]

@Robert4 posted the service manual in post #7 that should tell you how to get into service mode, did you check the service manual?

You should also have a tech. data sheet inside the washer that would tell you as well, look inside the console or inside the washer cabinet for it.

Also look at this: https://www.applianceblog.com/mainforums/search/143492/?q=LG+washer+E6&o=relevance It shows others with this E6 code and what they did to fix theirs.

I am definitely using the manual @Robert4 posted, and the button press combo is pretty simple, but does not work on my washer. Also, I just noticed today that with the new PCB, when I unplug the unit, the LEDs illuminate for about 3 seconds. I am assuming that is a safety feature to drain two pretty big Capacitors. It may have done it too with the old PCB, and I may have just missed it.

For the tech data sheet, there is a Wiring Diagram on the outside of the back panel in a small ziplock. There were no other papers in the cabinet. When you say the "console," do you mean under the Main PCB and Display PCB? Thanks again for all the help by the way.

 

[Jake]

Ok, since I don't have experience on LG washers for this issue, I don't know what else to tell you, sorry.

Hopefully another tech or member that's seen this problem and fixed it can shed some light on this issue.

 

[jeepman]

Just a quick update: the machine is still not fixed since I am not able to loosen the 38mm nut on the tub. I need to rent an Impact Wrench, but before I do that I will try and soak with a nut solvent, such as liquid wrench.

 

[Jake]

Ok, yes that's a good idea.

Let us know how it goes.

 

[jeepman]

OK, NOW I'M GETTING MAD!

So the new Washer Drive Shaft and Shifter Assembly did not fix the issue as well! So current new parts are:

1. New main PCB
2. New Clutch Motor
3. New Washer Drive Shaft and Shifter Assembly
4. New washer shifter coupling, and washer shifter assembly, but these are not used because the Washer Drive Shaft and Shifter Assembly came with new pre-installed.

I tried the Spin Cycle only, and it was not spinning the tub at all, but I could hear the motor spinning. When the new Washer Drive Shaft and Shifter Assembly was installed, the Clutch Motor's rotor was positioned so that the actuator was all the way pulled out, so the agitator plate was the part receiving the motor rotation. It was less loud than before, but clearly not normal, and the lack of spin cycle confirms the Clutch Motor is not working. Is there anything beside the PCB that would cause the Clutch Motor to not work? The Clutch Motor was purchased on Amazon, but it came in a genuine LG parts box, and the tape sealing the box was under the label, and I know how to see signs of tape being cut and then re-taped from my days having to check electronics related returns.

I think I am facing buying another Clutch Motor at this point?

 

[jeepman]

#2 "New Clutch Motor" is called the "Washer Shifter Motor" so that is what I mean for that part (4681EA1009C) so I was using a wrong name for it.

 

[Jake]

I think I am facing buying another Clutch Motor at this point?

That I don't know. I've not run into this problem before, wish I could help you further, but I can't without being there with you, sorry.

 

[jeepman]

That I don't know. I've not run into this problem before, wish I could help you further, but I can't without being there with you, sorry.

It was the HELL Censor, I mean the Hall Sensor, pun fully intended! I can't believe a $15 part removed me from this nightmare of a repair gone way TOO long. The good news is the only old parts left are a couple of pumps, etc. It is noticeably quieter as well, so the new parts did do some good! Please mark this SOLVED finally.

And seriously, a big thanks to all, this is an awesome site.

Now my next adventure will be in a different section, where I get advice on an ignitor that keeps "clicking" from a stuck ignitor.

 

[Jake]

Glad to hear you found the problem.

Here's the Hall Sensor(aka Rotor Position Sensor) for your model, in case others need it too:
6501KW2002B LG Washer Rotor Position Sensor