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WT5101HV Wash Plate Not Releasing from Drive Shaft Spindle

Coleman

Premium Member
Joined
Apr 15, 2019
Messages
7
Location
Orange County, CA
Model Number
WT5101HV
Brand
LG
Age
6-10 years
I have an LG WT5101HV Wave Force Top Loading Washer.

I need to replace the Washer Drive Shaft and Shifter Assembly. To do this I need to remove the Wash Plate and Wash Tub.

Clutch AEN73131403


I have been following a Repair Clinic Video. The specific spot on the video appears at approximately 1:29 minutes of the 9:13 minute video.

[video=youtube;8ZKgP6hu8Fk]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8ZKgP6hu8Fk[/video]

It's a great video and very clear except they are demonstrating on a new washer where every part is easy to remove.

I have removed the Wash Cap and the 10mm bolt / screw securing the Wash Plate. But no matter how I try I can't get the WASH PLATE to release off of the Drive Shaft Spindle.

  • I have tried wiggling it from side to side.
  • I have placed coat hanger hooks into the 3 alignment holes for the Wash Cap and tried pulling it off.
  • I have place a polypropylene rope under and across the bottom of the Wash Plate so as to pull it loose.
  • I am pulling in both instances with such force that I can actually lift the Suspension Wash Tub up several inches. I do this in hopes of shaking or breaking the Wash Plate loose.


But still it will not break free.

Any suggestions please on how to release this Plastic Wash Plate?

Thanks
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
111,069
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
Hi,

I haven't run into one I couldn't get off.

Another member said this: Slide mason's strings under the wash plate, then force upward pressure on the mason's strings by using a 2x2 and the top edge of the washer as a fulcrum to lift the washer plate.

Jake
 

Kevin9

Premium Member
Joined
Apr 16, 2019
Messages
3
Location
Washington
I just did something very similiar with my wash plate. I slid 2 ratchet straps under the wash plate, trying to space them as close to the shaft as possible on either side. I put a 2x4 across the top and tightened them evenly, first on a few clicks, then other one. I was tough to be careful not to crack it or anything but came off without too much tension.
 

Coleman

Premium Member
Joined
Apr 15, 2019
Messages
7
Location
Orange County, CA
I have been using the FULCRUM Method. I have 3/16" pieces of poly rope on each side of the center mounting point. Pulling with so much force that the tub lifts up and stops when it reaches the bottom of the top frame. So much force that the machine even begins to tilt. I even bounce it up and down a few times. The Wash Plate never seems to budge.

I am going to try Kevins suggestion below. Using the tie down ratchet straps next, soon as I can pick a set up.

Why would LG design a part that for 90% of the folks they complain that it breaks loose in the wash while they are using the machine. Then in my case I can't get it to break loose.

I am thinking that besides the Drive Shaft and Shifter Assembly that this Wash Plate is also part of the problems we are having.

Never or Rarely Spins at High Speed.

Towels, Jeans, etc are still pretty wet after the spin and full end of wash cycle. Wet enough that I can manually wring several cups of water out of even the smallest of loads.

When it does agitate, their is sort of a squeaky sound that you hear intermittently all the time.

Thanks for your assistance.
 

Coleman

Premium Member
Joined
Apr 15, 2019
Messages
7
Location
Orange County, CA
Thanks for the Response Kevin.

I will try your method soon as I can find a pair of tie down ratchets that have a strap thin enough to get under the Wash Plate via the Wash Plate Circumference Gap.

Coleman
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
111,069
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
Why would LG design a part that for 90% of the folks they complain that it breaks loose in the wash while they are using the machine. Then in my case I can't get it to break loose.
Because LG is a electronics company, not a mechanical company, if you want a good smartphone or TV buy LG, if you want a reliable washer get Speed Queen, Whirlpool, Maytag which have over 100 years of building appliances.:)

LG has only been in the home appliance business about 15 years, and that's all.

Remember the LG exploding washer?

 

Coleman

Premium Member
Joined
Apr 15, 2019
Messages
7
Location
Orange County, CA
Kevin:

I am trying your Tie Down Ratcheting Strap Method.

So far after 3 attempts the most I have been able to achieve is to get one half of the Wash Plate to rise about 1/2 inch to 3/4 of an inch. Enough so that I can actually feel the bottom edge of the Wash Plate in that area where it has been raised up via the tie down straps.

If pressure is released it just drops back to its original position. So what I am really getting is a flexing of the Wash Plate and no real releasing from the Drive Spindle. Although once when tightening it I heard a loud ping.

I will try rotating the wash plate and see if I can get the other side to rise similarly.

Something has got to knock it loose or break what ever is holding it. Especially with 100 pounds plus of pull weight on those straps. Fortunately they go to 800 pounds but the 2x4 would probably go first.

How many times did it take you to achieve success.

Currently I have the straps each on one side close to the center. However on the ratchet tie downs I have them crossed so that the straps won't slide off under the pull stress.

Any other thoughts.

Thanks for your assistance.

Coleman
 
Last edited:

Frozty

Premium Member
Joined
Jun 3, 2019
Messages
2
Location
North Carolina
Coleman,

Did you get yours removed? I am having the exact same problem, starting today (first attempt). I haven't tried the ratchet-strap idea, but I don't think I have space to even slip a thin strap around the side of the washplate. I am pretty much resolved to destroying the center of the washplate to remove it. A full replacement washplate is $70 (not terrible). I have already started to drill out the plastic center of the washplate with a 5/8 spade bit, but have run into an embedded metal washer inside.
 

Coleman

Premium Member
Joined
Apr 15, 2019
Messages
7
Location
Orange County, CA
Frozty:

No I have not gotten ours released yet. I put what was done back together and were still using the machine with the same squeaky problems, improper load balancing, and inability of the unit to spin at a high enough speed to actually get the water out of the clothes fully or sufficiently.

Strangely, I also got an email today from the LG Sears Parts Repair Guy they had sent out saying he had seen my similar posts in the LG Customer forum. So after over a month they wonder if I ever got the machine repaired. Don't get any new info from them on how to resolve the stuck washplate. But they do want to inform me that they are having a great sale on LG Washers and Dryers.

My thoughts on LG and their Washer and Dryer capability, service and warranty repair are that they rank at about the same level as Boeing and their 737 LIES.

Apparently EXPLODING Washers and their recall of the Washers which amounted to no actual recall but rather a service visit to reprogram the software.

This sounds very much like the same Story Boeing is giving everyone.
Were sorry we lied about our MCAS System and out actual need to tell the truth and also truly train pilots on all possibilities of how the MCAS might fail.
No we never actually tested the MCAS even in simulators to find out that it did not work properly. Then with the testing we did do we hid or covered up the results.
Boeing... we truly regret that 346 people lost their lives. Our plan to fix this total failure of our system, is to now give you for FREE, that item, for which we use to charge $70,000
The tiny little RED Warning Light that will come on and TELL YOU THAT YOUR ABOUT TO DIE.

LG... Yes our manuals do show that removing and replacing the WASHPLATE IS A CUSTOMER SERVICEABLE ITEM. But no we don't want to tell the customer that the WASHPLATE MIGHT BREAK FREE while your doing your wash. Nor will we admit that OUR FAULTY DESIGN OF THE WASHPLATE might actually cause it to PERMANENTLY BIND TO THE DRIVE SHAFT SPINDLE. NOR do we want to tell you that in some cases the ENTIRE DRUM might become AIRBORNE and come flying out of the Washer.

That's all the ranting. Now for some relevant comments to your current situation. Yes, I have read where others have taken a HOLE SAW and cut around the CENTER WASHCAP SPINDLE area, thusly removing the WASHPLATE. These folks had Whirlpool and Sears Models whose WASHPLATES that were to my knowledge made of a strong plastic, which is different than the LG WASHPLATES which seem to be made of some sort of aluminum wrapped over a plastic body. I believe that the very center of the washplate,where the first bolt attached is also made of plastic. But that it has an HOLLOW underside center where a METAL VERTICALLY STRIATED SLEEVE is suppose to reside and to which the DRIVE CLUTCH SPINDLE is suppose to be inserted. It is this SPINDLE into which the FIRST BOLT attached and to which the succeeding NUT and WASHER hold the WASHTUB to the SPINDLE and CLUTCH.

I hope that the METAL WASHER your running into is the top of the STRIATED SPINDEL GEAR SLEEVE.

( Sidenote: After using the HOLE SAW to cut loose the WASHPLATE. They still had to use a HEAT TORCH and CHISEL AND HAMMER TO BREAK AWAY the remaining center assembly, section by section).

In your comments you were using a SPADE BIT, WHICH IS THE INCORRECT BIT TO USE. YOU NEED TO USE A HOLE SAW, one that is about 2 -1/2 inches in diameter and about 1 to 1-1/2"deep. You have to take it slow so as not to drill to deeply or you will actually drill into the WASH DRUM, which will be a very costly item to replace if even possible. I assume your original intention was to replace a gear and spindle, because doing this process means you will have to get a new DRIVE CLUTCH and SPINDLE unit part and also a new WASHPLATE and most likely the Spindle NUT and WASHER.

In your comments you state that you have reached what you call a METAL WASHER. I think what you have reached is the top of the EMBEDDED SPINDLE SHAFT COUPLING ASSEMBLY. Think of it as a large thimble size cup turned upside down with vertical striated grooves cut into it for the spindle to fit or slide into. I hope you have stopped at this point. Because the next area you will be drilling into will be the very large cap nut and Washer which hold the Tub on to the DRIVE CLUTCH SPINDLE UNIT. At this point you can be causing damage to the WASH TUB.

Think of this as a surgical operation. Slowness and Skilled Accuracy will most likely accomplish the goal. I would advise switching to a HOLE SAW if possible, slowly using the method I described above This should weaken the washplate allowing you to remove the majority of it and then just needing to tackle the remaining center part where the DRIVE CLUTCH SPINDLE SHAFT is located.

Your primary goal at this point is to surgically cut away the washplate without doing any damage to the Wash Tub.

It might also be possible to accomplish this surgical cutaway using something like a DREMEL Tool with a small circular saw like blade. In effect grinding and cutting away a majority of the washplate leaving only the center part to deal with. Then continue using the Dremel to remove the remaining WASHCAP section. If you can get enough of the WASHCAP REMOVED, then you might be able to use a DEEP SOCKET on the Larger LOCKING NUT and WASHER. Once you get those off, you can then remove the TUB and continue on with your original task. Replacing the Drive Gear and Drive Shaft Assembly.

I will be available Tuesday, June 4th from 8:00 am to 12 noon PST if you need to communicate.

Coleman
 
Last edited:

Frozty

Premium Member
Joined
Jun 3, 2019
Messages
2
Location
North Carolina
Coleman,

Thanks for the reply; that's some good info. Fwiw mine is an LG WT1101CW, and I’m doing this to be able to replace the failing clutch assembly (which I have already bought).

I didn't realize the washer plate had an all-metal spindle under the plastic – that makes sense with what I see now, and I will certainly stop drilling at this point (until I'm ready to destroy it altogether). I assumed that the entire bottom of the washplate was plastic under the aluminum cover, including its spindle splines, and that I could just spade bit my way down to the clutch assembly spindle.

That changes my plans a little; a metal washplate spindle makes me think even more that using heat might help it un-mate from the metal clutch spindle (boiling water, or let a hot solder iron sit inside for awhile, and then cool the inner clutch spindle with a little water to make it thermally shrink faster than the washplate spindle) . Metal on metal is better for that than plastic on metal.

If that fails, I plan to make an "impact puller", sort of like this:

31XqE8+jxBL.jpg

I think I can use screws or bolts to attach a metal plate or wood block to the top of the center of the washplate (where the cap comes off -- using the three guide pin holes). To that plate or block I will attach a long bolt or threaded shaft, or just rig something where I can apply blunt force against the centerline of the washplate in the "up" direction. Either the splines will uncouple, or I will deform the aluminum holes of the washplate, or both. I will post a picture of my puller and let you know if it works.

This is really surprising to me; our machine is only about 4 years old. I expect that some grease or anti-seize should have been applied at the factory between the mating splines to keep them from seizing together. Maybe that doesn’t happen 100% as it should (Six Sigma!), and we’re just the lucky ones to get one of those.
 

LadyTech

Premium Member
Joined
Jun 19, 2019
Messages
11
Location
Texas
I see this wash plate issue on Whirlpool, LG and now I have two new Maytags with a tall agitator that is rusted to the drive shaft as well. All are less than three years old. I can’t find the video I watched that looked promising. He made a bearing type puller for the washplate. He used a 2x4 and a tire jack.
I would beat it with my rubber hammer then use my Dremell and calmly cut it off. The hammer was just to release my anger. Ridiculous design. I’ve been lucky a few times when I’ve let it soak in penetrating oil over night. Next day I fill it with water and the washing action has loosened it off. Good luck!
 

Coleman

Premium Member
Joined
Apr 15, 2019
Messages
7
Location
Orange County, CA
10 Sept 2019 @ 2:00 pm pdt

We had an 8 year old LG Top Loader Model WT5101HV. About 5 months ago I needed to replace the Direct Drive Clutch Shifter and Spindle Assembly ( PN Old: 3661EA1009f / PN New: AEN73131403) One of the first things you had to do was remove the Wash Plate at the bottom of the Wash Tub. The Repair Clinic Video made it seem so simple. Remove Wash Plate Cap, Unscrew 8mm Bolt, Remove Wash Plate with 2 fingers. They should try doing this on a real years old washer in the field. It is a whole different matter when that is the case.

Many nights I poured boiling hot water into the tub in hopes it would release whatever was bonding it to the drive spindle shaft. I then managed to get flat cargo straps under the Wash Plate and using a two by four across the washer top and the cargo strap ratcheting device on top cranked away. Over 180 foot pounds of pulling power but still it would not break loose.
With that much force I was actually lifting the tub out of the machine frame. I repeated this process and the hot boiling water many times during the ensuing months to follow.

It did seem like I was able to wiggle the plate a bit but it still would not release.

My next step was to heat the center of the Wash Plate using a Heat Gun. Well it got hot, but never enough to break the bond.

I didn't want to use a whole saw on the center of the Wash Plate for fear of doing more damage.

Many said that their Wash Plate just popped off while they were doing wash. Well finally on September 8th 2019 while washing 4 towels, during the rinse cycle the Wash Plate Broke Loose.

I immediately commence the Removal and Replacement of the New Direct Drive Clutch Shifter and Spindle Assembly. Took about 3 to 4 hours. Definitely need a Powered Torque Driver to get the 38mm Tub Nut Off. Using the Powered Tool made very quick work of getting that nut off. The rest of the Dissassembly and Reassembly went fairly quickly as I took good pictures and notes to refer back when uncertain or just to double check my memory.

Powering up the reassembled Washer and all seemed to work, except now we are constantly getting an UE Error Code ( Unbalanced Load) which is incorrect. Regardless of whether we have clothes in the tub or just run an empty tub cycle we get the same error code and incomplete Rinse Spin Cycle. Funny we didn't have this issue when the Clutch Shifter was broken. Now that its new we have the UE problem. During the spin cycle were now getting a noise whose sound changes from Galloping Horses to the Clickity Clack of a Railroad car moving along between rail welds.

Yes to my knowledge I have reset the onboard computer several times.

This Model LG has been recalled several times and has had the Computer Board Changed twice as well.

LG just makes terrible washing machines and does not honor their warranties due to faulty design, manufacturing and assembly.

For that matter, if you look at all the major manufacturers of Washing Machines they are all using the same faulty design and buggy computer board and software programming.

Coleman
 

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LadyTech

Premium Member
Joined
Jun 19, 2019
Messages
11
Location
Texas
Coleman, did you calibrate the motor speed? The tech sheet in the washer explains the procedure. This might help. Your right, most washers are so similar that a lot of parts are interchangeable. I agree, they are all junk. Btw, the calcium deposits are mostly soap build up, dirt, grease, and grim. This traps moisture and causes erosion. I blame this gunk on the washplate fusing to the shaft.
 

darinbee

Member
Joined
Aug 17, 2020
Messages
1
Location
Ottawa, KS
I fought with this for a couple hours on my Maytag MVWC400XW3. I eventually took three 1/2 inch sheet metal screws with a large pan heads and then screwed them into the wash plate on the high spots as to not poke into the unknown area below the washplate and attached wires and tightened the screws.
The wires need to be long enough exit the washer and wrap around a section of pipe that I then attached to a ratchet strap that was also attached to a floor joist in the basement ceiling.

I then used the ratchet strap to lift the washer a few inches off the floor and then pushed down hard on the washer and the wash plate came off. On the bottom of washplate was a metal piece that was rusted to the shaft.

Washer1.jpg

The metal bar was to stop the tub from pulling out from the washer.

Washer2.jpg
 
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